100+ degrees out

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by azbill, Apr 28, 2007.

  1. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    today was first day to hit 100 here. :shock: (desert outside phoenix)
    I would like to get opinions on any heatproofing I can do to make my bike last through the hotter days to come :? :?
    ie: should I run different plug/gap than normal :? or anything along that line

    figured I might as well get all the input I can now, before it's 130 outside :lol: :lol:

  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Just run it as always. Try not to run the engine without being moving.
  3. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest


    I wonder if you coiled some copper tubing around the cooling fins if that would act as even more of a heat sink?
    Maybe even fill with water and a popoff valve in case it gets to hot.
    Just some wild ideas! :lol:
  4. Tom

    Tom Active Member

    anything you can do to extend the surface area should help. When I first started reading your post, for some reason I thought you were going to ask about how to hook up AC to your bike or something... :lol:
  5. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    yea is it possible to somehow watercool these engines? People make mods to their PC heatsinks like that all the time (Regular member of Overclock.net)
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Water cooled? Yes, ride in the rain! :lol:
  7. Bill Snow

    Bill Snow Guest

    I have been told by a few people that painting the engine black disperses the heat better. ?????

    I know when I touch a car with a black surface on a hot sunny day it certainly is not cooler, but you may want to check this out with someone in the know. If you do check on this I would like to know what you learn.
  8. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I heard that before about painting engine black
    I know the older grubees were black so there might be something to it
    Does anyone have any input on that ???
  9. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    That color should absorb the light and actually do the opposite...

    You know what? Let's send this to the Mythbusters, on the Discovery Channel. Tell them about the website. The exeriment would be to buy two bikes, install 80cc engines, paint one black, and monitor the temp while riding. Plus it would really spread the word about the site and the bikes as a viable form of economical personal transportation.

    Who else watches that show? I'm being totally serious about this. It would be awesome!
  10. foyeburger

    foyeburger Guest

    i watch it all the time tivo is my friend haha! that would be cool on mythbusters yeah!!!
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Anyone attempting to paint their engines needs it to be eat-off-it-clean for good results. Clean every surface to be painted with acetone or laquer thinner. Don't 'splode yourseft doing this in an enclosed area, and even if you are outside-NO SMOKING!!!!

    Try to use a "high temp" paint, or BBQ black which is usually labled as "high temp" paint. Flat black or satin BBQ black give a different effect than gloss black, so choose accordingly.
  12. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

    If it were 100 deg F outside I would change the oil I use to something different but it has some minor drawbacks.

    Regardless of whether the two stroke oil you use is traditional non-syn or synthetic there is one type of oil that tolerates high temperatures better than either of them. This has been proven time and time again in the radio control engine community whose engines cylinder temps often exceed 300 deg F with rpms in 20,000-25,000 range.

    The oil is castor oil. Drawbacks is that it forms a varnish and will buildup on your piston and rings. However, many in the cart racing community use it because it is has proven to work better than anything else. I'm going to start using it myself.
    A good compromise is to use a blend of 2 stroke oil containing 20% degummed castor oil and I highly recommend Klotz Super Techniplate: http://www.niagaramarinehobbies.com/KLOTZ Oil_1.htm LOOK AT ITS FLASHPOINT...IT BEATS MOST 2 STROKE OILS by 200 deg F.

    R50 Racing Techniplate Racing Synthetic Lubricant.

    Smoke Rating: 9 1=fog: 10=no smoke
    Clean Burn: 9 1=heavy deposits: 10-no carbon
    Film Strength: 9.5 1=failure: 10=virtually no wear
    Viscosity @ 100F 900 SUS 50W @ 40C: 200CST
    Pour Point: -10F
    Flash Point: 400F
    RPM Limit: Unlimited.
    Rust Prevention: Contains Rust inhibitors. Excellent storage lubricant.
    Certification: A.P.I S.A. Intended for Racing Engines Only.

    Super Techniplate Racing Synthetic with 20% Castor blend Lubricant.

    Pure Synthetic bases are blended with 20% BeNOL Racing Castor Oil. Provides engines the Clean burn quality of Klotz synthetic lubricants along with the exceptional film strength of Castor Oil. Degummed Castor Oil reduces ring groove deposits and protects engines in high RPM and extreme heat applications.

    .Superior Film Strength and Anti-Scuff protection.
    .Extreme Load Carrying Capacity to eliminate engine wear.
    .Clean Burn Technology reduces carbon and residue build-up.
    .Contains Familiar Klotz Red for easy mixing and racy odor.


    Blends with gasoline, methanol alcohol, nitromethane and stays in suspension. Will not blend with petroleum oils or synthetic lubricants.


    Smoke Rating: 8 1=fog: 10=no smoke
    Clean Burn: 7 1=heavy deposits: 10=no carbon
    Film Strength: 8 1=Failure: 10=virtually no wear
    Viscosity @ 100F 950 SUS 50W @ 40C: 200 CST
    Pour Point: -10F
    Flash Point: 460F
    RPM Limit: 25,000
    Rust Prevention: Contains rust inhibitors. NOT recommended as a storage lubricant.
    Certification: A.P.I. S.A. Intended for Racing Engines Only.
  13. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

    Check out the differences: Klotz with 20% benol castor has a flashpoint of 460 deg F and note amsoil's flashpoint of 237 deg F!!!!

    Saber Professional Synthetic 100:1 Pre-Mix 2-Cycle Oil (ATP)
    Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
    Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
    Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 136
    Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97)
    -36 (-33)
    Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
    114 (237)

    Fire Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92) 114 (237)

    AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic 2-Cycle Racing Oil
    Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
    Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
    Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 156
    Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 97)
    -48 (-54)
    Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 92)
    92 (198)
    Fire Point °C (°F) (ASTM D 92) 97 (207)
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 18, 2015
  14. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    way to technical for me, but thanks for the input :)
    isn't cator oil kinda pricey? :eek:
    not expecting my engine to last forever, just wanted to know if there was anything I could do to help a little, thats all 8)
  15. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

    The key point is that Klotz which has only 20% degummed castor is superior to anything out there. Klotz is not pure castor just a blend of synthetic with some castor. This stuff isn't any pricier than AMSOIL.

    Don't be scared by the technical stuff, the guys who do it aren't any smarter than either of us. Flash point is the temperature at which the oil is ignited. The 2 stroke oil lubricates in liquid form not in ignited form. Higher flash point is better is all you need to know.

    THe other stuff is viscosity at various temperatures. You don't want viscosity to break down (shear down) too much at higher temps. Viscosity is measures in CST or SUS (sorta of like celcius or farenheit measurements..same thing measured differently).

    Film strength is also a measure of wear on parts..Amsoil measures film strength with a standard friction ball bearing test..

    Pour Point is how well oil flows at low temperatures..not important for us..
  16. rcjunkie

    rcjunkie Guest

  17. Guest

    Guest Guest

    How much is shipping?
    Buyitnow! :lol:
  18. retro_racer

    retro_racer Guest

    painting the motors

    I used to get cans of High heat engine paint at any (parts store).Before we assembled the cylinders to the race cars(mostly VW powered).Spray several(4 to 5)thin coats of high heat paint on them.This insolates the barrels alittle more,and helps dissapate the heat.We used the 1200C or better paint for exhaust systems.It also comes in alot more colors than just black.It usualy works realy good for from 2 to 4 races depending on the miles short course races sometimes about 6 races.The problem I see is that the VW cylinders are cast iron type.I'm not sure how this would stick or hold up on the aluminium cylinder's. Just an idea!!