5kW hub drive motor! (Washing machine DIY E-bike)

[FurryOnTheInside]

A list of reputable battery sellers is available on endless sphere. Don't buy ebay batteries from someone you don't know. Although it is tempting I admit.
I'm currently saving for either a decent battery, or cells plus a Vruzend kit myself. You can't solder 18650 cells together without the heat damaging them. It can be dangerous enough just to spot weld them.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Hmm. Alright. So, that battery doesn't look good either? Should I buy from my local car battery shop?

They may even sell Li-ion batteries, no idea. But they sell giant ones too.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Hmm. Alright. So, that battery doesn't look good either? Should I buy from my local car battery shop?

They may even sell Li-ion batteries, no idea. But they sell giant ones too.

It's not how it looks its just a bit risky buying batteries on ebay, you can't tell what's what, so the best thing go with a trusted seller. See the list on ES forum.

 

[bakaneko]

Right now... like.. Just enough to buy the motor. Then after that, the other stuff, eventually.
Would those batteries work tho? It states a lot of info.

Continuous discharge current:
15/20A Battery model – 10A

Instantaneous discharge current :
15/20A Battery model – 20A

I'll have 5 in series to increase the voltage.

5 of those in series is like $300. At that point why not just get one of the branded premade packs designed for ebikes. 10A discharge still blows. ebikes cost money, dude. The cheapest configuration that I know of is the 36V 500W rear hub with two 36V 4.4aH scooter pack configuration, which is what I started out with. For US prices this was like $130 + $60-70 = $200 minus the bike of course. This configuration did about 20-22 mph top speed and performed well at 15 mph cruise. There are 1000W 36V controllers out there but I have not had the chance to test them. With that controller, you will probably be able to cruise at 20-23 mph and have a lot more torque. That controller is like $20, so a possible upgrade.

Later on, I put in series a lot of the 36V scooter packs to make a 72V pack and am riding the 3kW Cyclone. 72V motors are expensive so yeah. One of the problem with the scooter packs is that you are limited to two configuration 36V or 72V. 36V is cheap as hell for parts and motors but 72V is expensive. looks like the cheapest hub from china is a 72 1500W for like $360. That is why I am searching for 12V 15-20aH good cell packs to make a modular ebike design where a rider can start out at 36V and then try 48, 60, and eventually 72.

For you, you need to make a decision on this stuff. #1 I really don't think you should go with that dc motor and just get a rear hub, #2 you should get branded cells with better than 10A, #3 consider the 500W 36V scooter batteries and hub approach (has an immediate cheap upgrade and can work towards 72V) if you are on a budget. you cannot work a miracle with ebikes they cost moola. i think my bike is decent but on a low end of 72V bikes due to batteries but I mean I did not spend a lot compared to what other 72V ebikers do.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Okay, thank you. I'm going to go out, and ask the guy at the battery shop, for a max discharge of 35, and continuos discharge of 20A. That should be OK right?

What I could do is get 2x 36 volt battery packs for e bike, maybe. That could be cheaper if i wire them in series? Or I'll stay with lead acid.
But the engine is rated for 48, that would be pushing 72 volts then.. Not sure if thats OK for the engine!!

 

[bakaneko]

Really depends on the city I guess but in America those retail battery shops are rip offs. LUL. My cheap ebike to current bike was 36V 500W with two 36V 4.4aH packs ($200-220). I then figured I really liked it over my gas bike (no noise, fast accel) and bought another two for a total of 16aH. Then saw a crazy good price for those packs at like $30 each and went to 32aH @ 36V. Then I bought a 72V motor and put the 36V pack in series to make a 72V 16aH pack. If you got SLA, make sure you can balance the bike with the added weight. I think it needs to be mid mounted and never rear rack.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Well for me it was 15 euro for one that is 10cm * 10cm, its 12 volts, and 5.5 amper hours.

So I'm guessing 15 - 20 amper hour ones won't be much more... Hopefully.

I'm going to mid mount it, weld some stuff on, OR, put half of 'em to mid, and half to the front somehow. There'd be 1 more at the front or back tho.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Alright so I'm in a bit of trouble. I need a 120-125 teeth sprocket, for my 28" wheels, so it has a top speed of 40mph (65km/h)

I don't wanna ride that fast either, but... Where do I get a sprocket that big, OR, how do I reduce the gearing enough, so I can use my 44 tooth sprocket from my motorized bike? I'd need a 1 : 2.75 reduction gearbox.

I was thinking of somehow using my old 50cc's gearbox, the clutch one, take out the small and the big gear. But that would be too much trouble

If this is the case, wouldn't it be just easier to get this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Bike-Sup...rentrq:cb3ee6b81690ab6af33c188bfff20085|iid:1

And buy lead acid battery packs for it

 

[bakaneko]

hard to say. its pricey for option to go 48-72 at 2000w. SLA might be okay at 48 but not at 72. its heavy and u need atleat 15aH

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

My Emoped is 60v 500w nominal/continuous and uses SLA batteries.
Damn it's heavy with the SLA, and to my eyes its ugly. But it has "stump pulling" torque and a top speed of 23.5mph.
It really surprised me, I didn't think I'd like it because its a heavy beast, it's actually the best bike I've ever owned for short 8-16 mile round trips.