ALMOST DONE, any final advice

well im about done i wanted to see what everyone else thought

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over all pic

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intake using marine grade epoxie and copper.

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cns carb with fuel line

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rando pic
 
my opinions:
get rid of the kink in your fuel line.
maybe shorten some of the cables, they are all over the place.
get rid of the push together wiring connectors and solder and heat shrink all of your wire connections. those push together connectors will eventually break and fail.
I'm not sure how long that intake mod is going to last.
sure, marine grade epoxy is strong....but it's made for water, not gasoline.
 
can i have a longer fuel line, maybe in a loop?
i just didnt wanna chop off the nice metal end on the cables and fray that metal winding.
ill be sure to get rid of the push connectors, one has already failed before i even got to start it!
the Marine grad epoxy is rated for chemicals, but that may not last, i dont know what else to use yet but ill figure it out
 
shortening the cables is easy, especially the clutch cable.
the key is to cut the outer sheath and then cap the end of the sheath with a cable end. you can get crimp on cable ends if you buy a pack of new bike cables. But, it's like $10.00 for a cheap set of cables, and that's $10.00 spent just to get the cable ends.
shortening the throttle cable isn't that easy because you have to cut off the end that mounts the cable into the throttle. then you have to make a new end with silver solder.
It's not that big of a deal to do it, but you have to know what you're going to do before you actually do it.
I had to shorten my cables because my bikes are only 20" ers, and they both have really low bars.

yes, you can add more fuel line and you can make it a loop, but make sure that it's a smooth loop with no kinks. your line right now might be ok if you shorten it just enough to get the kink out of it. as long as fuel flows though it. it might be ok as it is. I think i'd try it and see how it works as it is and then change it later if it's a problem. OR, loosen your gas tank and slide it forward until the kink in the line is gone.

you can buy an actual one peice off-set intake manifold rather than trying to make one.
the thing that might happen is that the epoxy might break down over time and give you an air leak which will make your engine run lean. you may experience problems getting it to idle, and it may develop a bog when you open the throttle all the way.
the epoxy may last for awhile as it is, but you never know.
or it may fail, giving you an air leak or making your carb fall off while you're riding. there's a lot of vibrations there, and extending the manifold magnifies the vibrations.
 
well ill see if i can tidy up the cables in the mean time, and see what its like riding. as for the fuel line im just going to make a nice smooth small loop cause it looks to be kinking 2ce once at the tank and once at the carb

as for the intake im going to do jb weld, and i have tom 1 in strap that i will use to strap the intake to another part of the engine or frame to reduce vibrations.
i will also be using JB weld to rebuild my intake, should work alot better, and its fuel stable.
 
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good luck with the jb weld. there have been many debates here about it and most people tend to agree that it is just epoxy and that it will eventually break down when it's exposed to fuel and heat.
it may last for awhile, but it will eventually crack and start to deteriorate.
 
ok so i jb welded my intake, the only concern is that i made the carb just a little off from being level, its level from side to side, but from intake to intake manifold its a little off, im hoping that it will not cause an issue with the bike running ok.

ill keep that in mind with the jb weld, i would have just bought that intake your talking about and the only reason i did not is because i forgot, and when i went to go get it after they wanted 15 bucks for shipping....im not paying more in shipping for a 10 dollar part, or ill just get rubber fuel grade hose and make a soft intake or something. or soft copper and use silicone cup links to link the 2. just like turbo'd cars
 
yep that makes sense to me.
wow $15.00 for shipping? no thanks...there's a way to make one for less than that.
your carb should be fine.
the only time there's an issue is if the carb is at a really steep angle (front to back when mounted to a straight intake manifold). this will cause the fuel level to also be at an angle and the float bowl can run out of gas faster than it can be re-filled.
yours should be fine tho.
trial and error is a big part of building these bikes, and it's one heck of a way to learn how to make parts that actually work.
 
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well here i took some pics, i just dont wanna mess anything up, and i have found some stuff about tuning a cns carb, but does anyone recommend a particular thread?

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and my fixed fuel line
 
well here i took some pics, i just dont wanna mess anything up, and i have found some stuff about tuning a cns carb, but does anyone recommend a particular thread?

08147974.jpg

f98ad993.jpg


and my fixed fuel line

ohhhh, now that i see the carb and the angle, i think you're going to have a problem.
the float bowl will probably run out of fuel before it can be refilled.
basically, the carb will suck up all the fuel that's high, but the float will still be high enough to not open the needle & seat to re-fill the bowl. then, when it starts sucking fuel that's low, the float will drop and it will run out of fuel before the needle & seat opens back up to re-fill the bowl fast enough.
you may be riding along at a cruising speed of 10-15 mph for example, and it might be fine. But, as soon as you go full throttle for a little ways, the carb may run out of fuel and your engine will die.

you should have your carb level in all aspects so that the float is also level. a steep angle can also cause the carb to flood over, and fuel may start to drain out of the overflow tube and you won't be able to stop it until the fuel level in the bowl gets low enough.
 
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