Alternator And belt drive

And/or turned the top fins around front to back to have more airflow rather than having those top fins going side to side the way they have set that up as seen in my pic below...Always made me wonder why they did this like that, it makes zero sense to me...lol.

View attachment 199407
You might be surprised at how effective those sideways fins are when the engine is canted forward. The block in the center causes the incoming air to be pushed out to the sides. It actually catches and moves a lot of air over the top of the head. Not ideal, but better than you might think.
 
No don’t get me wrong you can get plenty compression out of one piece but you tend to mess with the port timings which some people like don’t get me wrong lol I’d just rather deck the top to get my desired effect
1 base gasket removed barely alters the timing, and none of it in a bad way. In fact, it improved the intake ancouple of degrees and made the port floor of the exhaust perfectly level with the piston top and allowed me to reshape the roof and improve my blowdown and exhaust duration. Upper transfers are also not blocked at all and also nearly even with the piston top.
 
And/or turned the top fins around front to back to have more airflow rather than having those top fins going side to side the way they have set that up as seen in my pic below...Always made me wonder why they did this like that, it makes zero sense to me...lol.

View attachment 199407
MY BT 100 one piece jug also has the fins sideways. Their new V2 version went back to two pieces so the fins go the proper direction. We shall see if my fan installed makes much difference when I test it out later today.
 
Exactly the reason why they should have rethought that and cast their molds to have the fins front to back.

This could be one of the reasons that on the V-4 they are developing as a two piece cylinder with separate head, that this might be their way of correcting this error.
They just took the mold off the real thing, instead of trying to redesign the wheel.
 
I've been thinking about generating DC power on a bike for a bit. If I do it on my build I'll be using a BLDC motor for model airplanes driven by a belt from my 'shaft' (which is a BMX peg on the motor shaft) through a three-phase bridge rectifier. With these motors, they generally rate them with a "KV" value which translates to RPM per volt when driving them normally without a load (I think). From there it's a matter of using a battery as a buffer with a charging circuit appropriate to the battery chemistry. Then I'd have lights and whatever running off the battery.

I'm also seriously considering driving a repurposed automobile alternator directly off the engine shaft and fashioning a drive with two 'outrunner' electric motors with a belt run between them on the tire, but that's a whole other story. It's probably worth trying out, but I'm not sure about efficency losses with such a scheme.
 
The rule of cool trumps all
Seems like a lot of work when you can get a nice small battery that will power most things for several hours, this could be housed in a box on a rear rat trap.

Unless you are planning extensive rides, other than the cool factor there seems little point.
It does seem like alot of work but I figure it might be worth it considering at points I’ve had to take 30 miles plus rides and I like having a speaker or music playing
 
It does seem like alot of work but I figure it might be worth it considering at points I’ve had to take 30 miles plus rides and I like having a speaker or music playing
As was mentioned powered speakers these days are really good and will play at high volume for at least an 1 1/2 hours.

I was looking at a link on Amazon for a nice small battery. Wow are they expensive. Anyway here is a 8 amp/h that would last a while for a reasonable price.
 
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