Another problemo guys (bogging)

[Luybaton]

There's your problem, a top end kit isn't that expensive and also isn't that hard to put on

What is a top end??

 

[Frankfort MB's]

Cylinder, piston, piston rings, small end rod bearing.... Basically the entire top end of the motor

 

[Luybaton]

Cylinder, piston, piston rings, small end rod bearing.... Basically the entire top end of the motor

Ahh Lol thanks man I am new at this

 

[gary55]

There is bad scratches and piston ring melted on the front..

There is bad scratches and piston ring melted on the front..[/QUOT

There is bad scratches and piston ring melted on the front..

With the damage it sounds like you have had the bottom end needs to be checked for play, and thoroughly flushed. Remove piston and raise rod to top dead center. Hold the crank wheels firmly from spinning, and try to move rod straight up and down. If there is play there is damage at either crank to rod or crank to case bearings. If no play remove engine, remove magneto to keep it dry, and magnet from crank because it magnetizes crank making it hard to get all metal contaminates out of bottom end. Mark the outside before you take it off. Flush the bottom end several times with gasoline spinning the crank, and shacking the hell out of the bottom end. Turn bottom end upside down and flush it out good with a pressure nozzle on a garden hose. Flush out one more time using your oil fuel mix. Now you should be able to re assemble without fear of screwing up your new top end.

 

[Luybaton]

With the damage it sounds like you have had the bottom end needs to be checked for play, and thoroughly flushed. Remove piston and raise rod to top dead center. Hold the crank wheels firmly from spinning, and try to move rod straight up and down. If there is play there is damage at either crank to rod or crank to case bearings. If no play remove engine, remove magneto to keep it dry, and magnet from crank because it magnetizes crank making it hard to get all metal contaminates out of bottom end. Mark the outside before you take it off. Flush the bottom end several times with gasoline spinning the crank, and shacking the hell out of the bottom end. Turn bottom end upside down and flush it out good with a pressure nozzle on a garden hose. Flush out one more time using your oil fuel mix. Now you should be able to re assemble without fear of screwing up your new top end.

Really helpful man thanks.

 

[Luybaton]

Now I have a screw broken off inside my new motor I bought it for a few bucks (all about a deal lol) but that's the only problem with it so my crank with a blown piston can I replace the parts inside the crank itself? Its a z-l bottom end witch ppl tell me is better than what I have anyway I have some old Chinese weird crap lol

 

[gary55]

Now I have a screw broken off inside my new motor I bought it for a few bucks (all about a deal lol) but that's the only problem with it so my crank with a blown piston can I replace the parts inside the crank itself? Its a z-l bottom end witch ppl tell me is better than what I have anyway I have some old Chinese weird crap lol

I have had "some" luck slotting the broken stud with a dremel and removing it with a screwdriver when it's broke even with the block, as well drilling the stud and removing it with a easy out. If you take the easy out route you need a steady hand and a good eye. If you get off center the bit will walk into the alum. of the block. I have also used heli coil kits for these repairs. It is especially tuff on the front mount. I've had some bad luck with these problems too. It's a crap shoot. We all like saving a buck, but sometimes it costs you ten to do it. I only do this when I know it is a good running engine worth trying to save. When these methods go south I cut my losses and start with a clean slate. The motors really aren't that expensive when you consider knowing everything is brand new, as opposed to building on a bottom end that has probably had the crap road out of it you are by far time and money ahead.

 

[skyash]

At the end you bye so much junk for these motors you can bye a 50cc atomic dirt bikefor $300 then use the motor on a push bike with4 speed gearsbox you don't need to mod it coz it's a real motor not 66cc China junk. My 49cc hp pocket bike motor on push bike hits 65kmh out the box every day all day gets there twice as fast as a 66cc. Theres something wrong with the 66cc for its size it should hit 80kmh out the box but no it doesn't. Up to you but for long term a better motor is best even a 4 stroke 49cc 142f is consistent performance

 

[gary55]

This is a 50 mph bike though it rarely sees it. I geared it down to about 44 mph cause we have a lot of hills in Prescott, and you are right it took a lot of money, research and patiences to get it there. The J shaft driven shimano nexus 4 speed hub has held up for close to 1000 miles now. I have the same bike as this with a nuvinci hub that I haven't motorized yet, and I would be interested in seeing your engine mounting on on your 65kph bike as a possible option for the build.

 

[skyash]

It's just a plate of steel. Or a 4 stroke mount Pb motors fits straight on