Anybody else notice this about JB Weld?

Okay, after 17 off-topic posts can we get back on topic please? :) je that is just a play on words to make the product look better, Happens all the time!.

This was my point from the beginning. I've posted this on three online forums, and the replies were nearly 100% opinions of the product, and accusations that I had misused it.

No, it worked for me exactly the way the directions on the tube said. No problem with the product. But the outer label made claims that were clearly false, in order to make the product appear to be more appealing to consumers.
 
Epoxy is temperature sensitive, during cold conditions, it can take hours to stop turning soupy . Once it sets, give it 24 hours * more * to cure under cold conditions. Above 50 degrees, the package is about right . Regardless, let it cure 24 hours for maximum strength, and ease of sanding.
 
its either false advertising or you inadvertently have selected the wrong product.

in au we dont have jb weld lying around on the shelf. we have araldite and various others. hydrepoxy, knead-it, etc. all epoxy bases. except the melamine wood glue, maybe. and polyester/urethane products.

but when i buy 5 minute araldite, when i mix it, i know it will go stiff in 5 minutes...sometimes 4, sometimes 6, but always approximately what the label says.

i buy 1 hr or 24 hr, i expect the same... 1 hr to go stiff, or a full 24 hour day.

so heres a sign saying it sets in 25 minutes, yet the tube says 5-6 hours.

obviously the sign refers to one type of jbweld, and the tube contains another?

cus all the big signs talk about speed of setting for convenient repairs around the home, but the fine print on the back of the product recommends slow sets for "hi stress" applications... this is usually the tube that isnt there or theres only two of them down the bottom and ones leaking...


im with the baking idea too. bung it in the oven for 20 minutes at 70c or so. depends. sometimes the slight "flex" of standard epoxy is nice.

i once used to use a single part epoxy that had to be baked at 150c... that stuff went hard.
 
Purely by accident i discovered that you can make a fast setting and surprisingly strong adhesive by mixing superglue (cyanoacrylate) with dust filings of the same material you are working with, be it wood, aluminium, steel etc.

I've found the best way for a quick thread repair is to clean out the stripped threads with turps (to get rid of any oil) then blow out the hole with air, followed by a repeat procedure with alcohol to get rid of the turps.
Simply fill the hole with dust filings and pour chilled superglue (straight from the freezer) over the dust filings.
Wait 15 minutes and drill and tap the hole for a surprisingly strong repair.

The other use this method has is in the form of a bridge building repair. Lets say you have a piece of plastic with an open crack of 3mm and it needs to be filled. Same process: sprinkle plastic shavings or dust over the crack and pour super chilled superglue over the shavings, then sand and blend to the original shape of the surrounding area.

One thing that never ceases to amaze me is how much heat the bonding reaction generates when combining superglue with dust particles - get the combination on your fingers and it gets mighty hot, even though the superglue is chilled to minus 18 degrees Celsius.
 
Thread is 3 years old, but google led me here so it must still be the most relevant entry point. ;-)

I did some research on the topic and found that the labeling and instructions were of poor quality. Even their website still has the bad packaging shown.
The good news is that the physical product I bought in the store recently is accurate.

What happened was that the product was going through description changes and not everything was done at the same time, and even on the same print, information was missed and not updated consistently. What's more, the actual tubes are manufactured and labeled separately. The loosely couple process causes new tubes to end up in old or semi-old packaging.

You can even dive deeper and take a look at the Spanish instructions at the time.
"Se fija entre 20 a 25 minutos. Se seca entre 15 a 24 horas. Deje pasar entre 4 a 6 horas de manipular el producto y un minimo de 15 horas antes de volver a utilizarlo."
It roughly translates to "It is set between 20 to 25 minutes. It dries between 15 to 24 hours. Allow 4 to 6 hours to handle the product and a minimum of 15 hours before using it again."

You will notice that this also came at a time when they were changing the tensile strength from 3960 PSI to 5020 PSI.

Final Thoughts:
1. After 20-25 minutes, it sets up but can still be molded like putty.
2. After 4-6 hours it will be fully set and will not move anymore.
-- Before this, it can sag / slump.
-- Handle without risk of compromising the product.
3. After 15-24 hours it is fully cured.
-- Can put back into normal use again.
 
I have used in for years. Original. Will never try any different version... why would I. The original works perfectly. Love job weld.
 
If you want jbweld to cure way faster before you mix the two sprinkle a decent bit of baking soda and mix it with the jbweld itll set in like 15mins or less the more baking soda you mix with it the faster itll harden
 
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