Best 4 Cycle Motor Oil?

[stringer]

I was just picking up some things from the dennis kirk website and looked at oil. My EHO35 sits unused, waiting for various MB parts so it is a still a virgin.

Anyway they have some very interesting, and expensive oil that I have not seen locally. I want to get whats best for my new engine, and since it only uses 100ml of oil, cost is not an issue.

I have tried search and could not find any info. I have the subaru EHO35 pdf manual up, and it only says "Use class SF (API classification) or
higher grade oil" Looking at their temperature chart, I'll need a single grade #40, or a multigrade 10W-40.

They have a TON of 4 cycle oil there. Any idea which is the best? I wasn't sure if I should be looking at a dino, blend, or full synthetic here as the manual makes no reference in this regard.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/cmn/prodlist.jsp?store=Main&catId=120&leafCatId=12004&np=0&av=6944

 

[Darwin]

For your break in period use a conventional oil it has waxes in it to help seal up the motor. After that you can use any high grade syn oil that you choose. Oil opinions are like buttholes everyone has one. Personally I like hybrid oils because you get the best of both oils.

 

[stringer]

Thats very good info, thanx!

I will use a conventional oil to start. They have some exotic looking conventional oil too. I might try a bottle of PJ1 or something.

 

[Skyliner70cc]

10w-40 isn't a very good oil. It requires a lot of viscosity index improvers which can cause ring deposits.

I would personally use a HDEO oil. It has greater amount of antiwear additives than a non-HDEO oil and a greater capacity to suspend particles which is important in an engine that has no oil filter.

I would use Mobil 1 Delvac 5w-40, Shell Rotella T 5w-40, or Amsoil European 5w-40. Rotella T is the cheaper and not a "true" synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

 

[mark2yahu]

0w-30

I was just picking up some things from the dennis kirk website and looked at oil. My EHO35 sits unused, waiting for various MB parts so it is a still a virgin.

Anyway they have some very interesting, and expensive oil that I have not seen locally. I want to get whats best for my new engine, and since it only uses 100ml of oil, cost is not an issue.

I have tried search and could not find any info. I have the subaru EHO35 pdf manual up, and it only says "Use class SF (API classification) or
higher grade oil" Looking at their temperature chart, I'll need a single grade #40, or a multigrade 10W-40.

They have a TON of 4 cycle oil there. Any idea which is the best? I wasn't sure if I should be looking at a dino, blend, or full synthetic here as the manual makes no reference in this regard.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/cmn/prodlist.jsp?store=Main&catId=120&leafCatId=12004&np=0&av=6944

I picked up some Mobil synthetic 0w-30. Yes, zero weight It's doing a good job in my Subaru engine.

 

[Skyliner70cc]

That's a great oil and should serve you well in protecting your engine. Just keep an eye out on oil consumption. Mobil 1 oils tend to be on the lower end of the viscosity range that the oil grade allows. For example, their 0W-30 weight is barely a 0w-30 and some consider it a heavy 0w-20 but it is within the API spec range for a 0w-30 but not by much.

Believe it or not, I use a special 0w30 in one of my diesel cars. It costs $13.00/quart but was designed for 10% better fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. The extra 4mpg I got was worth the extra cost over the 10,000 mile oil change interval (oil is actually rated for 25,000 miles with oil analsyis).

Good luck with your ride.

 

[StevePA]

There are 2 main schools of thought on engine break in. Search the web for 'engine break in procedures' and you will find them (Take it easy vs. get some pressure in there). It seems that no matter which way you decide to go the #1 rule is no synthetics until you have it broken in.

 

[stringer]

thanks guys i decided to get some PJ1 Silverfire conventional 4-stroke 10W-40 for starters. its should be pretty good stuff (i hope)

i really like the idea of getting 10 oil changes per quart of oil lol. i will be changing my oil after every single use.

 

[sparky]

(1) Why use straight 30W over 10w-30??

(2) The rule about always using dino during break-in to seal the rings, then switching to synthetic later is definitely true.

(3) The "rule" about not being able to switch from synthetic back to conventional oil is actually a myth. You may switch freely between the two, but that's just silly 'cause it's a waste of money.

(4) I've always heard that synthetic oil needs to be "broken-in" itself.... that you don't see the extra lubricant benefits of synthetics until after 3,000 to 4,000 miles of use in a vehicle. At that point, you'd change oil filters and top off the oil, as opposed to removing the synthetic oil which is perfectly fine. This is why you can go for 10k to 25k miles without changing oil, but you *best* be changing that oil filter and topping it off.

The whole dilemma (as far as I can see) with synthetics in MBs, is that these 4-strokes don't have oil filters. So you're forced to remove the synthetic oil at a very short interval no matter what. If we can't see benefits from synthetic oil until after it has been heated up (where the chemicals "break down") in the engine after hours of use... why even bother using synthetics in MBs to begin with??

EDIT: My point is that your choice of oil filter is far more important than your choice of oil. But we don't have oil filters, so you're best off using a high powered magnet at the drain plug, like fetor has done.

 

[Skyliner70cc]

The jury is split on whether conventional or synthetic is best for engine break in. Numerous vehicles come with synthetic oil out of the factory. My last two new cars were spec'd for a synthetic oil for factory fill.

I guess it comes down to what kind of synthetic is used. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil which is not a true synthetic such as a Group IV (PAO basestocks) or Group V (ester base) oil

Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil ONLY in the United States. Group III based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" in any market outside of the USA. It was a judge who allowed Castrol to label its Group III oils as synthetic.

So, if you use a Group III oil which says synthetic on the bottle, its perfectly ok to use in an engine break in. Group IV or V...that's where the true debate is.