Best converter for 142f motor

[Paul Harper]

What's wrong with your 4G? 1500 miles is nothing to a 4G, they can easily go over 10K miles. There isn't much on them that can break, and what does break is pretty easily fixed. The belt lasts an absurdly long time if taken care of.

Q-Matic is pretty much the only upgrade over a 4G. My brother has one of the earliest Q-Matics and I think it's perhaps the best cruising system around. It's lousy for hills IMHO, but there is nothing smoother on the flats.

The 100 toothback pulley cracked all the way around and the bearing going to the small final drive sproket is wacked also this is my first build but I expected better then what I got. That's just my luck though to get a defective tranny. I was planning a little vacation on my own. To visit some of our state parks I'm down in Louisiana and we have some wonderful fishing in our parks. I have me a little cargo trailer to pull behind me I'm gun shy of the Chinese trannys now great little motor though cranks 1st pull damm near every time just a bit cold natured like its big brother honda motors but I'm good with that

 

[The_Aleman]

The pulley and bearing can be replaced pretty easily, although I don't blame you for wanting something better for a long trip.

I would choose my brother's Q-Matic bike over my shifter 4G bike for a trip any day. It's much smoother - doesn't beat up the bike.

 

[Paul Harper]

The pulley and bearing can be replaced pretty easily, although I don't blame you for wanting something better for a long trip.

I would choose my brother's Q-Matic bike over my shifter 4G bike for a trip any day. It's much smoother - doesn't beat up the bike.

Well I'm also thinking that the qmatic would be the best fit for pulling my lil trailor too mainly because the belt is thicker and wider looks like the splines are deeper as well. We are flat laners down here but I still want low end pulling over top end speed. 25 is really good for me,trailor pulls smooth everything feels good at that rate. I have the hub adapter on back with a 44t sprocket will this work.Im seeing everyone w/52t rear sprockets with the qmatic. After my trip I would like to have my top end back ,so what suggestions do you have for this with the adapter it's easy to change the rear sprocket but I'm seeing with the q it's very easily changed.so extra sprockets or extra pulleys? Oh one last though I'm seeing ezq company is coming out with belt drive for a final drive and soon as money allows I'm going for it also I can only imagine how smooth and quiet and just so much more pleasurable the ride will be. I appreciate your time and knowlage your so generously putting out there to help a rookie motor cycling brother out not to mention the money that will be saved in my future motoring thk. YOU

 

[The_Aleman]

I don't know what the reduction is on the particular Q-Matic you're looking at, but they tend to be in the neighborhood of 3-3.5:1. If you have a 26" wheel bike, then you're gonna want at least 56T on the rear. If you're seeing a lot of guys using 52T, that's probably the ideal speed gear for the one you're looking at. So you may want to go with a larger gear anyway, being that you're pulling a trailer. The thing you have to watch out for with Q-Matics is clutch slippage, extended use while under lockup speed will burn the clutch out. Q-Matic is an under-driven clutch system.

Back when my brother got his Q-Matic in 2009, 56T was the smallest recommended gear for it. I put a few hundred miles on my brother's bike and found that the clutch didn't fully lock up until ~20MPH and it was pretty slow off the line and up hills, but would do 30-36 all day long. He later put a 64T on it and that woke it right up at the cost of losing a lil bit of top end. Around that time there was also an EZM dealer in the Arizona mountains who pulled a trailer full of grandkids with his who IIRC used a 72T sprocket. His bike was set up for sub-20MPH speed and did it well for over 15K miles.

Not sure what output gear you had on your 5:1 4G, but your overall reduction would be 20:1 with an 11-44. To match the overall reduction you had before, you'll definitely have to change the rear sprocket. It's tough to get 5:1 out of a Q-Matic because it takes a huge secondary pulley!

 

[Paul Harper]

I don't know what the reduction is on the particular Q-Matic you're looking at, but they tend to be in the neighborhood of 3-3.5:1. If you have a 26" wheel bike, then you're gonna want at least 56T on the rear. If you're seeing a lot of guys using 52T, that's probably the ideal speed gear for the one you're looking at. So you may want to go with a larger gear anyway, being that you're pulling a trailer. The thing you have to watch out for with Q-Matics is clutch slippage, extended use while under lockup speed will burn the clutch out. Q-Matic is an under-driven clutch system.

Back when my brother got his Q-Matic in 2009, 56T was the smallest recommended gear for it. I put a few hundred miles on my brother's bike and found that the clutch didn't fully lock up until ~20MPH and it was pretty slow off the line and up hills, but would do 30-36 all day long. He later put a 64T on it and that woke it right up at the cost of losing a lil bit of top end. Around that time there was also an EZM dealer in the Arizona mountains who pulled a trailer full of grandkids with his who IIRC used a 72T sprocket. His bike was set up for sub-20MPH speed and did it well for over 15K miles.

Not sure what output gear you had on your 5:1 4G, but your overall reduction would be 20:1 with an 11-44. To match the overall reduction you had before, you'll definitely have to change the rear sprocket. It's tough to get 5:1 out of a Q-Matic because it takes a huge secondary pulley!

Well when I pulled it apart the clutch was warn excessively also.Im 54 and a retired widow the last thing I'm concerned about is speed 20-25 top speed is cool cruising 18-20 mph is good I want my bike to be dependable and last, when I'm out riding I'm the most relaxed and worry free then I have been in along time my bike is my therapy kind of sort of. I looked at the 4G on bike engines.com its half the price of the qmatic and I know I got a defective one in the kit so they have a free wheel and a solid wheel 80t or 100t which one of these would serve me best if they have the tq your saying mine hasn't since new but I didn't know none the better. I can buy two of those for the price of the pacesetter qmatic your on belt #1 since 2011 I'll try it again but which one ??

 

[The_Aleman]

Well I spose if the clutch is already worn and it didn't have the torque to begin with, that replacing the clutch with a HD Staton-Inc 76MM clutch and doing an R&R of the pulley may not cut it. But it's hard to come to that conclusion with the probability that you're already geared too tall. I still don't know how many teeth you have on your 4G's output sprocket, can you count em? Also we need to be sure whether you have a 26" wheel bike or 24, 700C, 29er etc.

For an example we'll say you have a 12T output sprocket and a typical 26" wheel bike. I've attached a couple thumbnails of a RPM/Speed comparison of a 26" wheel bike with a 100T 4G, 12T freewheel output, and 44T rear sprocket, as well as 56T sprocket. The HS does good work at 4500-7K, going beyond 8K is risky long-term because of inadequate oiling. They will run at 5-6K RPM all day and be happy.

In the end, the 50CC and less 4-stroke utility engines we see on these lacks torque, they can only do so much with the gearing they have. That can easily be compensated for by pedaling ofc, chevrolegs + these little engines does the job pretty good! It's fun surprising cars with one's 0-20MPH off the line.

 

[Old Busted Hotness]

Clutch wear is an indicator that your gearing is too tall. It should only slip when you're taking off from a stop, and lock up by the time you hit 8-10 mph. If you shoot for a 20:1 overall ratio you'll have a good riding bike and the clutch will last forever.

 

[Paul Harper]

Well I spose if the clutch is already worn and it didn't have the torque to begin with, that replacing the clutch with a HD Staton-Inc 76MM clutch and doing an R&R of the pulley may not cut it. But it's hard to come to that conclusion with the probability that you're already geared too tall. I still don't know how many teeth you have on your 4G's output sprocket, can you count em? Also we need to be sure whether you have a 26" wheel bike or 24, 700C, 29er etc.

For an example we'll say you have a 12T output sprocket and a typical 26" wheel bike. I've attached a couple thumbnails of a RPM/Speed comparison of a 26" wheel bike with a 100T 4G, 12T freewheel output, and 44T rear sprocket, as well as 56T sprocket. The HS does good work at 4500-7K, going beyond 8K is risky long-term because of inadequate oiling. They will run at 5-6K RPM all day and be happy.

In the end, the 50CC and less 4-stroke utility engines we see on these lacks torque, they can only do so much with the gearing they have. That can easily be compensated for by pedaling ofc, chevrolegs + these little engines does the job pretty good! It's fun surprising cars with one's 0-20MPH off the line.

Ok the paper work says that the gear box is 5:1 ratio and I have a 44t rear sprocket and a 26 inch schwinn bike

 

[CrazyDan]

With the 5:1 4g transmission with an 11t output and 44t rear sprocket you will get 20:1, which shouldn't burn out the clutch unless you are Cruising at very low speeds all the time. If your output sprocket is 12t you would need a 48t on the rear wheel to get 20:1 again, I wouldn't use the 44t rear if pulling a trailer. If using a 9t or 10t you would get even more reduction, 9t would give you massive torque at 24.444:1 reduction, and the 10t would give you 22:1 reduction.

 

[The_Aleman]

Ok the paper work says that the gear box is 5:1 ratio and I have a 44t rear sprocket and a 26 inch schwinn bike

I need the number of teeth on your output sprocket. The sprocket that comes out of the back of the 4G. Is it 9? 10? 11? 12?

I still think you should switch to a 56T if you're keeping your 4G. That would put your powerband at 13-23MPH. (23.33:1)