Pedal chain to jack shaft

[BruceBanner1983]

Would you really want 3 chains on the left side? On top of that the 20" tires are going to out the pedals really close to the ground in the 6:00 o'clock position. You'd have to use some really short crank arms.

I’m talking about putting a free wheel adapter on the jack shaft and flipping the crankset so the chainring is on the same side as the transmission, then running a chain from the bottom bracket to the freewheel on the jack shaft. The pedals will turn the Jack shaft, which will turn the rear wheel. No chain from the pedals to the wheel.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Where you getting 3 chains from? The cvt is belt driven. The only other chain is from the jack shaft to the rear wheel.

Chain from CVT to the jackshaft is 1, chain from the jackshaft to the rear wheel is 2.

 

[BruceBanner1983]

Chain from CVT to the jackshaft is 1, chain from the jackshaft to the rear wheel is 2.

Dude, the jackshaft is what the driven pulley and the drive sprocket both sit on.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Dude, the jackshaft is what the driven pulley and the drive sprocket both sit on.

That's the transmission drive shaft. A jackshaft is separate and is usually connected to the seat post, either in front of the SP or behind it. This picture shows a jackshaft.

I now get what you're talking about. What you'd need is a left side chainring crank. These are used on some tandem bikes. You'd probably have to put a longer drive shaft into the CVT as well.

 

[Chainlube]

That's the transmission drive shaft. A jackshaft is separate and is usually connected to the seat post, either in front of the SP or behind it. This picture shows a jackshaft.

View attachment 201950

I now get what you're talking about. What you'd need is a left side chainring crank. These are used on some tandem bikes. You'd probably have to put a longer drive shaft into the CVT as well.

He's talking about extending the shaft on the driven clutch all the way through and the chain to the rear wheel, he doesn't need the jack shaft and mount.

 

[cloakedvillain]

You would need a left hand drive freewheeling crankset, or a tandem timing crankset and a one way bearing if you try to keep it all on the left.

The guy has a freewheel set up that I think is similar to your plan
View: https://youtu.be/6TrefSjN1w8?si=7x-99aoHe2WLSENt

My question is that outside of cleaning up the visuals, what is gained out of removing the recoil start? Maybe I misread or don't remember right I am under the impression that the reason for removing the recoil start is to pretty it up.

I appreciate visual clarity and obey the rule of cool on a build but: many two stroke riders have tried to install recoil starts and successfully use engine starting tools for drills.

 

[BruceBanner1983]

You would need a left hand drive freewheeling crankset, or a tandem timing crankset and a one way bearing if you try to keep it all on the left.

The guy has a freewheel set up that I think is similar to your plan
View: https://youtu.be/6TrefSjN1w8?si=7x-99aoHe2WLSENt

My question is that outside of cleaning up the visuals, what is gained out of removing the recoil start? Maybe I misread or don't remember right I am under the impression that the reason for removing the recoil start is to pretty it up.

I appreciate visual clarity and obey the rule of cool on a build but: many two stroke riders have tried to install recoil starts and successfully use engine starting tools for drills.

Nothing to do with removing the pull start. That was never mentioned. The moped wheels I ordered don’t have a right side pedal sprocket or a way to attach them. I have a freewheel pedal gear that is for a different moped hub, that threads onto the hub. The idea is to connect pedals to my transmission driven shaft. They make freewheel adapters for keyed shafts that are used on tricycles. I would just need the right size adapter for a 5/8 shaft.

 

[BruceBanner1983]

That's the transmission drive shaft. A jackshaft is separate and is usually connected to the seat post, either in front of the SP or behind it. This picture shows a jackshaft.

View attachment 201950

I now get what you're talking about. What you'd need is a left side chainring crank. These are used on some tandem bikes. You'd probably have to put a longer drive shaft into the CVT as well.

I might find that seat post mounted jackshaft useful. Do you know where I can get one?

 

[BruceBanner1983]

You would need a left hand drive freewheeling crankset, or a tandem timing crankset and a one way bearing if you try to keep it all on the left.

The guy has a freewheel set up that I think is similar to your plan
View: https://youtu.be/6TrefSjN1w8?si=7x-99aoHe2WLSENt

My question is that outside of cleaning up the visuals, what is gained out of removing the recoil start? Maybe I misread or don't remember right I am under the impression that the reason for removing the recoil start is to pretty it up.

I appreciate visual clarity and obey the rule of cool on a build but: many two stroke riders have tried to install recoil starts and successfully use engine starting tools for drills.

I’m not removing the recoil start. I am going to put a different rope on and tie a loop for the handle because the plastic pull start handle screams lawn mower engine and messes with the aesthetic I’m going for, but that’s a separate topic from this thread.

 

[BruceBanner1983]

Staton sells 5/8 keyed freewheel adapters