Bicycle-Engines HD bike wheel problem

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bikejock

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Been having a problem with my Skyhawk HD bike wheel I got from Bicycle-Engines. The 6 hole top hat sprocket adapter keeps unscrewing when ever I try pedal starting my bike. Anyone know of a proper fix for this problem? I’m thinking of getting a nut large enough to fit on the thread & dousing the thread in red locktite. I rarely plan to take it apart & mess with it anyway & would much rather have it properly secure.

It did have a disk brake adapter that fit on the thread but the hub didn't fit my dropouts with the disk brake adapter on the hub because my dropouts are just shy of 135mm & the hub by itself barely fits with the pedal side sprocket on & spacers to keep the dropouts away from rubbing against turning parts. So anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
Been having a problem with my Skyhawk HD bike wheel I got from Bicycle-Engines. The 6 hole top hat sprocket adapter keeps unscrewing when ever I try pedal starting my bike. Anyone know of a proper fix for this problem? I’m thinking of getting a nut large enough to fit on the thread & dousing the thread in red locktite. I rarely plan to take it apart & mess with it anyway & would much rather have it properly secure.

It did have a disk brake adapter that fit on the thread but the hub didn't fit my dropouts with the disk brake adapter on the hub because my dropouts are just shy of 135mm & the hub by itself barely fits with the pedal side sprocket on & spacers to keep the dropouts away from rubbing against turning parts. So anyone have any thoughts on this?
What do you mean it is unscrewing? The bolts must be locktited but there's no part that should unscrew itself otherwise.
 
How big is the sprocket?
Are you using a chain tensioner pulley whatsit?
Is the engine hard to start? high compression??
Is there no locknut there already?
Yeah I agree you should find a nut to fit the thread. Maybe find a way to fit a woodruff key or set screw type of thing. Red loctite will make it very difficult to replace the sprocket when it's worn or you just fancy a change though, so I'd stay away from that.
Fixie riders manage okay with a locknut. Your engine shouldn't be that hard to turn over...?
 
The bolts themselves that holds the sprocket on use locknuts. I’m talking about the 6 hole part the sprocket bolts up to that screws onto the thread of the Grubee HD axle hub.
 
unless it is a left-hand thread, it will always unscrew

are you sure it was meant for this?
 
Ok Here’s what the HD bike wheel looks like the way it’s currintly set up. Wheel size is a 26 (with a painfully narrow rim making tire/tube chainging a real hassle) tire is a 26x1.95 street comfort, the sprocket is a 44 tooth & I’m using an arch idler pulley I got from a seller on Amazon.
 

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unless it is a left-hand thread, it will always unscrew

are you sure it was meant for this?

I think some idiot at Bicycle-Engines/Birddog didn't put this HD bike wheel together correctly. Which means I gotta swap both the pedal side & the drive sprocket side to the opisite ends of the hub & have the spokes re-adjusted to center my wheel at my local bike shop. I’m thinking the engine drive sprocket will actually pedal start the engine without coming apart unless it unscrews when I engage the throttle being on the right hand thread side which sounds dangerously scary.

It is a Grubee HD axle kit from the looks of it built into a 26 bike wheel though so I’m pretty sure it was meant for this, just not put together correctly by Bicycle-Engines/Birddog fron the looks of it.
 
Can you just provide a link to exactly what you bought, you don't have a top hat adapter so that's not relevant, and what you do have seems to be counterintuitive to be "some idiot's" fault since if both sides are threaded then one side must be a left hand thread to be a functional hub, if both sides are right hand threads then what you have is something real f***ed.

Looking at your hub I can't say you have a grubee HD hub, if you did you wouldn't be able to bump start because the freewheel that is part of it would stop it. If you aren't using an adapter that screws into the larger left hand threads then you will get this problem. Sorry those photos just aren't giving the right info needed to determine what is going on.
 
The chain tensioner pulley whatsit is very high up, giving the chain a very acute bend. This adds to the resistance during the bump starts.

I don't see any nut locking down the screwed on adapter.

Presumably the adapter is on a ccw thread so that it doesn't unscrew under engine power, but it will unscrew during the bump start if there's no lock nut and there's added chain resistance from a tight bend around the pulley.

Try to find a ccw nut to jam up against the adapter with brute force, a big wrench and some blue loctite; and lose a link or half a link out of the chain so you don't need the tensioner so high up....

Why can't you remove the tensioner completely? Does that frame really need it?
Looks like it doesn't.
I'd move the tensioner to the pedal chain side instead. :)
 
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