bike having trouble up 20 degree incline
- Thread starter blckwlfny1
- Start date
blckwlfny1
Member
- Local time
- 4:13 AM
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
- Messages
- 76
So this means I can get an a 8 or 9 mm automotive plug wire cut the non-booted end. And simply screw the bare wire. Into the cdi box...Right?
Yes, but you may find that any size larger than 7mm will be a tight fit inside the hole in the CDI box. You may need to trim it down only in the portion where it fits into the CDI.
I do not like to use a razor blade for trimming, it leaves a too irregular of a surface and it should be a water tight seal. I use a belt sander but a grinder will also work. Smear a thin coating of silicone paste (sold as GB Ox-Gard in home improvement stores, electrical section) on the sides of the wire and twist the wire onto the screw inside the hole.
I do not like to use a razor blade for trimming, it leaves a too irregular of a surface and it should be a water tight seal. I use a belt sander but a grinder will also work. Smear a thin coating of silicone paste (sold as GB Ox-Gard in home improvement stores, electrical section) on the sides of the wire and twist the wire onto the screw inside the hole.
motorpsycho
Active Member
a 9 mm plug wire will not fit without trimming the sides down....an 8 mm plug wire is a tight fit, and you will have to force the 8 mm wire to go into the cdi box.
I would not trim down a 9 mm spark plug wire and try to jam it n the cdi box. trimming a spark plug wires outer cover will only sacrifice the plug wire and it could actually leak electricity.
i would just go with an 8 mm wire and avoid all the hassle of trying to trim down a 9 mm wire to fit. and yes...use a rubber automotive style spark plug boot. remember that you will have to screw the top cap back onto your spark plug for the automotive boot and connector to lock onto the spark plug.
I am using a 90 degree automotive boot with a 90 degree connector inside, and an 8 mm accell superstock spark plug wire.
i have this combo on both of my engines and it's one of the best upgrades you can do. the stock plug wires are junk.
I would not trim down a 9 mm spark plug wire and try to jam it n the cdi box. trimming a spark plug wires outer cover will only sacrifice the plug wire and it could actually leak electricity.
i would just go with an 8 mm wire and avoid all the hassle of trying to trim down a 9 mm wire to fit. and yes...use a rubber automotive style spark plug boot. remember that you will have to screw the top cap back onto your spark plug for the automotive boot and connector to lock onto the spark plug.
I am using a 90 degree automotive boot with a 90 degree connector inside, and an 8 mm accell superstock spark plug wire.
i have this combo on both of my engines and it's one of the best upgrades you can do. the stock plug wires are junk.
Last edited:
blckwlfny1
Member
- Local time
- 4:13 AM
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
- Messages
- 76
I've been thinking. Should I just cut my losses and go with a new engine kit altogether?
I mean do these engines EVER work right? And do you have to dink with them and put so much aftermarket stuff on them just to make them actually put out that 2.5 hp that I might as well start fresh?
QUESTIONS:
1) Does the stock skyhawk EVER produce reliable, consistent power?
2) Is the "rock solid" motor adaptation worth the money?
3) Should I just start fresh with a Kawasaki or a Honda engine?
Thanks
I mean do these engines EVER work right? And do you have to dink with them and put so much aftermarket stuff on them just to make them actually put out that 2.5 hp that I might as well start fresh?
QUESTIONS:
1) Does the stock skyhawk EVER produce reliable, consistent power?
2) Is the "rock solid" motor adaptation worth the money?
3) Should I just start fresh with a Kawasaki or a Honda engine?
Thanks
1. These engines can and do produce reliable and consistent power.
2. If your frame has oversized tubes the adapters will work better than the stock mounts, unless your engine is a newer one made with the oversized mounts all ready.
That is a tough one to call. You will have to determine if the current mounts you have fit the frame properly.
3. You can start fresh with another engine kit or mount location (over the tire, ect) if you want to, but the kit you have now should work fine after all the bugs have been worked out.
2. If your frame has oversized tubes the adapters will work better than the stock mounts, unless your engine is a newer one made with the oversized mounts all ready.
That is a tough one to call. You will have to determine if the current mounts you have fit the frame properly.
3. You can start fresh with another engine kit or mount location (over the tire, ect) if you want to, but the kit you have now should work fine after all the bugs have been worked out.
blckwlfny1
Member
- Local time
- 4:13 AM
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
- Messages
- 76
Thank you for the encouragement.
for #2, i was refering specifically to "Rocksolid Motors"...one of the sponsors... "australia's home for motors chains and chainless bicycles"
How are their notors? they seem to beef up the HT engines with some impressive (and expensive) parts. Is it worth the money?
for #2, i was refering specifically to "Rocksolid Motors"...one of the sponsors... "australia's home for motors chains and chainless bicycles"
How are their notors? they seem to beef up the HT engines with some impressive (and expensive) parts. Is it worth the money?
After reading your post I went to RockSolid's web site and looked at their mounts to verify the product you were referring to as there are different mounting products available.
I have no experience with RockSolid's engines.
There are members here who hail from Australia. I am sure that at least one of them has experience with RockSolid's engines and apparent upgrades.
I have no experience with RockSolid's engines.
There are members here who hail from Australia. I am sure that at least one of them has experience with RockSolid's engines and apparent upgrades.
blckwlfny1
Member
- Local time
- 4:13 AM
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
- Messages
- 76
same s**t
Its STILL happening. ...and its learned a NEW trick
Engine still bogs down. And now after I shut it, fuel seems to be leaking out of the air intake
I checked the float. Its floating ok
To date,
1) I have: adjusted the needle to the "leanest" setting
2) Adjusted the float to the measurement suggested above
3)Replaced spark plug with a good NGK -7
4)Replaced plug wire with an 8mm racing wire
5) Soldered all wire connections a heatshrink wrapped them
STILL No go
Aaaargh
I just bent the tabs for the float needle down some more....no dice, bowl still filling up even though the float is still floating
Its STILL happening. ...and its learned a NEW trick
Engine still bogs down. And now after I shut it, fuel seems to be leaking out of the air intake
I checked the float. Its floating ok
To date,
1) I have: adjusted the needle to the "leanest" setting
2) Adjusted the float to the measurement suggested above
3)Replaced spark plug with a good NGK -7
4)Replaced plug wire with an 8mm racing wire
5) Soldered all wire connections a heatshrink wrapped them
STILL No go
Aaaargh
I just bent the tabs for the float needle down some more....no dice, bowl still filling up even though the float is still floating
Last edited:
blckwlfny1
Member
- Local time
- 4:13 AM
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
- Messages
- 76
I bent the tabs down some more. pulled the float needle and cleaned the port. Same problem. Bowl is filling up to the intake. I also have the samw problem with the motor. Iwhen up on the stand it starts fine and runs like a champ and has good throttle response. But if I get on it and expect it to actually propell itself, it dies. I'm also getting a screeching noise from the motor. Clutch seems ok. ...air leak from head?...spark plug?
Last edited:
Similar threads
