Drill Starting your HT

[DuctTapedGoat]

So, I don't have any experience with a jackshaft kit or ghost sprockets, but I still have a suggestion as to how you might do this...



Get a bike stand, or a double sided kickstand that will lift the back end off the ground.
Weld a plate to a sprocket center and dremel out a line for use by a large screwdriver.
Take a large screwdriver, chop off the handle and put it in your drill.
With your new ghost sprocket, install it, hit the kickstand down, hit your clutch, fire it up with the drill and drop the clutch. Be sure to keep your drill straight and pull it when it's done.


Now, I personally really think that laziness is a bad way to find a fix for something like this. "Necessity is the mother of invention." I just worry that as this isn't a major necessity, it won't get invented. But, when this is looked into enough, we'll find a way to get a proper electric start, so there is that. If you want an easier fix, drink a cup of coffee 20 minutes before you leave and do a standard pedaling compression start.

If you're going off the magneto, just bore out a spot for a large screwdriver and do the same thing I mentioned a paragraph ago. It will prevent stripping, and while you're at it find a good way to have a quick release magneto cover.

EDITADD:

Mount the cover with a hinge and weather stripping (rubber washers where the hinge mounts), and use a sliding lock to secure for water tight. That's just one 24 second idea.

 

[MikeJ]

Hi DTG -

Thanks for the thoughts. I prefer not welding on my bike, but some other builders don't mind. In the first suggestion, keep in mind that the gear ratio from engine crankshaft to bottom bracket shaft is around 16:1. What you are suggesting works in the opposite direction: 1:16 (one turn of the pedal shaft results in 16 turns of the crankshaft). The flywheel effect you are hoping for will very quickly fade to zero in less than a second on a hard-to-start engine. And if turning the axle continuously, the speed of the drill will have to be around 100 rpm and have huge amounts of torque to turn the engine crankshaft over at 1600 rpm. I do not own such a drill.

The second suggestion is more realistic. I have not tried this, but it is worth taking seriously. I just have to downsize the one-way bearing, the collar, and the socket. This is all fairly easy to do and will cost very little. I can cut a slot in the crankshaft using a Dremel cutting wheel.

I am a fair weather rider, so sealing against rain and road spray is not too high on my priority list.

The best fix is to find out why the fuel delivery during starting is causing such difficulty and fix whatever the problem is. I just have not taken the time to do so.

Thanks!
MikeJ

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Now, first a disclaimer to what I'm going to say. It's not super major, but it's still just not a super healthy thing to do to your motor.

This is what I do on my bike and I'm aware of the risks involved. Educate yourself and be your own judge if you choose to do this.


Lol, now for how dumb it is. My motor is broken in and has been for a while. I don't have to touch my choke and I also don't have to touch the fuel shut off. On a NONspeed NT carb, fuel will fill the floatbowl continually. The first week or so it took a good 15 yards before it would fire because of the choke and abundance of fuel in the bowl. Eventually though, it broke in to the point that I can fire it up first thing in the morning at 20*F ambient temps and it turns over in 5 -10 yards. The downside to this is that there is very high initial acceleration due to the high floatbowl content of gasoline.

Honestly, I have just attributed this to to the motor being broken in, but if anyone has any suggestions as to why this occurs other than a normal broken in motor, please, let me know!


Anyways, as to your situation, instead of "warming up" the motor, you might try turning your petcock on 30 minutes to an hour before you ride. That might get enough fuel into the floatbowl for a better start. I don't know beyond the break in point why the choke would matter.

 

[pucksterpete]

I have also heard the newer pull starters are much improved.

Can you recommend a company or an individual selling a new improved pull start?

Thanks

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

From what I heard about pullstarts, stock they're terrible, and only last 20 starts before the spring breaks. As well from what I've heard, the pullstart repair kit has better quality. But, the biggest thing that I've heard from people is that the pullstart kits are fine if you gut them and replace anything you possibly can with parts from a weedeater, mower, or anything that's considerably more high quality than the chinese kits provide.

 

[pucksterpete]

Thanks for the info, I will check around

Pete

 

[pucksterpete]

Here is the home trainer I use to cold start the bike with SBP jackshaft. I don't have to worry about running out of street or worrying about cars. I live on a one way street on a hill with lots of traffic. Much easier to start in the garage. I also added kneesavers between the pedals and cranks to give me more clearance because of the bag I use.

Pete

 

[Peter fielding]

Has anyone ever started their HT engine with an electric drill? If so, how well does work and can it cause any harm by starting it this way? I am running a 66cc Grubee w/SBP Jackshaft. Too lazy to pedal on the cold starts. From what I have read pull starts are still too weak. Thanks for the input.

Pete

Yes I've done it!!i managed to start it without breaking my wrist but it won't work unless you have some forms of ratchet. As soon as the engine starts up it will unscrew the magneto magnet nut. I've lost mine now and I'm struggling to replace it as it's a fine thread. I can't Evan buy it?

 

[darwin]

Grubee sells a HT motor with a nut[?] protruding from the crankcase that's designed to start the motor that way with any drill.

 

[scottymac]

I have done it also, but the crack in the back deck ate the nut when it came off. Does anyone have the thread size so a replacement can be had?