Engine Trouble Engine wont start? TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Motor cranks up take the choke off bike runs then starts to bog out and have to put choke on then it runs and I have to keep going back and forth with the choke I clean carburetor it's brand new engine not even 2 weeks old.
You have a air leak somewhere or something clogging the jet. Most likely the air leak. Take a unlit torch and blow the propane around the connections from carb to intake, intake to cylinder, head gasket, exhaust gasket, while engine is running. Sometimes a spark plug loosens and sucks air or the hat on the carb becomes so loose it sucks air.

When you find the leak the engine will change RPM. To know the sound you're listening for blow a little into the air filter. Usually the engine will slow down. The leak can also be at the seals, but it's usually at the carb to intake.
Loose or not completely pushed onto intake allowing air to enter through the expansion cuts at the throat of the carb.

If no air leak is found your problem is not too much air it's too little fuel. Since it runs with the choke it's getting fuel so a clogged jet might be the issue.

If you don't have a torch make sure the carb is all the way on the intake, the hat is tight, retorque the head, tighten the intake to cyl. and exhaust to cyl. and this should work. Some needle adjustment may be needed afterward.
 
If you don't have a torch make sure the carb is all the way on the intake, the hat is tight, retorque the head, tighten the intake to cyl. and exhaust to cyl. and this should work. Some needle adjustment may be needed afterward.
If you don't have a torch, you can use a bunch of things to make your engine change air/fuel ratio when you hit the spot with the air leak. You can use wd-40, brake cleaner, nitrous oxide, carb cleaner, dust off, butane and even water. Just listen for an engine change when a leaky joint is hit with any of those.
 
If you don't have a torch, you can use a bunch of things to make your engine change air/fuel ratio when you hit the spot with the air leak. You can use wd-40, brake cleaner, nitrous oxide, carb cleaner, dust off, butane and even water. Just listen for an engine change when a leaky joint is hit with any of those.
Good morning I took carburetor off put brand new one on double checked everything make sure there was no leaks carburetor was a little loose on the manifold I went ahead and took care of that so no more leaks and nice and tight at ran for 15 minutes did good I did fine-tuning with the idle screw and then wrote it and then when I stopped it started doing the same thing wine to shut off so I had to put the choke up a little bit to keep it going and then it just finally went on and off on and off took spark plug out it looks pretty black could it be my mixture is too rich I'm using 7 oz for one gallon for breaking and motor only have about 15 mi on it still trying to break it in any ideas
 
Good morning I took carburetor off put brand new one on double checked everything make sure there was no leaks carburetor was a little loose on the manifold I went ahead and took care of that so no more leaks and nice and tight at ran for 15 minutes did good I did fine-tuning with the idle screw and then wrote it and then when I stopped it started doing the same thing wine to shut off so I had to put the choke up a little bit to keep it going and then it just finally went on and off on and off took spark plug out it looks pretty black could it be my mixture is too rich I'm using 7 oz for one gallon for breaking and motor only have about 15 mi on it still trying to break it in any ideas
 
This is my only transportation so when I get home from walking from work I've been messing with the bike for a couple hours trying to Hope get it running so I don't have to walk to work. Feel like I'm getting closer to the problem possibility to Rich gas and oil. I have a NGK spark plug
 
This is my only transportation so when I get home from walking from work I've been messing with the bike for a couple hours trying to Hope get it running so I don't have to walk to work. Feel like I'm getting closer to the problem possibility to Rich gas and oil. I have a NGK spark plug
 

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what my part looks like after I ran it 15 minutes.
 

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Might be your needle put it back at factory settings mid-notch find a parking lot with a street next to it that has a hill climb go up and down the needle and hill till you found the best notch for climbing the hill.
 
took spark plug out it looks pretty black could it be my mixture is too rich I'm using 7 oz for one gallon for breaking and motor only have about 15 mi on it still trying to break it in any ideas
Hi Joel,

I think i already told you before, but if i didnt, here it is again...your using too much oil for a Zeda 80 break in...use only 5 to 6 ounces per one gallon gas of conventional oil, (NOT SYNTHETIC), preferably Valvoline, 2 cycle conventional as is recommended in the Zeda 80 manual...after 3 tankfuls, (approx 150 miles), you can then use a Full synthetic 2 cycle oil...also make sure your plug is gapped at 25 thousandths, and be sure that if your at sea level, that your needle valve is set with C clip at the second notch to the very top of the needle, and clean that soot off the plug with a wire brush or something...Hope your using the NGK B6HS plug.
 
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Good morning I took carburetor off put brand new one on double checked everything make sure there was no leaks carburetor was a little loose on the manifold I went ahead and took care of that so no more leaks and nice and tight at ran for 15 minutes did good I did fine-tuning with the idle screw and then wrote it and then when I stopped it started doing the same thing wine to shut off so I had to put the choke up a little bit to keep it going and then it just finally went on and off on and off took spark plug out it looks pretty black could it be my mixture is too rich I'm using 7 oz for one gallon for breaking and motor only have about 15 mi on it still trying to break it in any ideas
Everyone has their own theories of breakin oil. I don't claim to know what is the best I only know what has worked just fine for me with well over 200 builds I use the same oil for breakin as I use all the time. 6 ozs. Amsoil Dominator full synthetic 1st. gal. 4 ozs. from then on. The bikes in this pic are all currently for sale. these along with all the other previous builds going back years have used this method with good results.

At any rate it is highly unlikely your oil mix has anything to do with your problem. So what I'm hearing is it runs fine when you first start it, but once warmed up it is lean needing choke to run then dies and won't start. As long as your having to fiddle with the choke to keep it running the plug won't give us any answers.

When you get home today fire it up. If it runs good till it warms up that will tell us something is changing once the engine is warm. Maybe a warped head? It sure sounds like a air fuel ratio problem.

I have seen a bad CDI cause some weird symptoms as well. running good at start up then going to s**t after a few minutes of running then after setting for a while running good only to crap out minutes after starting.
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