Engine Trouble Engine wont start? TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Hi Joel,

I think i already told you before, but if i didnt, here it is again...your using too much oil for a Zeda 80 break in...use only 5 to 6 ounces per one gallon gas of conventional oil, (NOT SYNTHETIC), preferably Valvoline, 2 cycle conventional as is recommended in the Zeda 80 manual...after 3 tankfuls, (approx 150 miles), you can then use a Full synthetic 2 cycle oil...also make sure your plug is gapped at 25 thousandths, and be sure that if your at sea level, that your needle valve is set with C clip at the second notch to the very top of the needle, and clean that soot off the plug with a wire brush or something...Hope your using the NGK B6HS plug.
Good morning just got done drained my gas tank cleaned it out of the old gas and oil make sure that my pet cock was flowing good and my screen inside the gas tank wasn't clogged clean spark plug my top headpiece took it back off set it on a piece of glass and I can tell my head is warped it's wobbly my seat clip I am moving up one slot like you mentioned so I did everything that you wrote so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it cranks up and stays running.
 
Good morning just got done drained my gas tank cleaned it out of the old gas and oil make sure that my pet cock was flowing good and my screen inside the gas tank wasn't clogged clean spark plug my top headpiece took it back off set it on a piece of glass and I can tell my head is warped it's wobbly my seat clip I am moving up one slot like you mentioned so I did everything that you wrote so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it cranks up and stays running.
0 did everything you said my clip was already on the second notch to the top it runs beautiful now doesn't rub high it cranks up like it's supposed to I wrote it around for a good 20 minutes I'm letting it cool down right now and then I was going to go back out and run it again and then let it sit until tonight my head was leaking put the head back on tighten it all down now I have no issues they sent me a warp head.
 
Hope won't lap that head flat lol. Did you sand it on top of said piece of glass?
09 I fixed it. it runs beautiful.no more revving high drove around for 20 minutes letting it cool down right now and then I was going to go back out and run it again for another 20 minutes and then let it sit until I get ready to go to work tonight.. I was starting to get overwhelmed spending $200 for this motor and come to find out the head was warped bought two new head gaskets put those on still saw daylight I have a new head I put on runs beautiful no leaks does not rev high anymore sounds like a motorcycle when you rev motor.
 
Hi Joel,
From a post you made on another thread.

the company sent me a warped head.was leaking air plus I was using too much oil for break in period . Spark plug was getting overheated and overcoated with oil..thks Damien I finally listened to everything that you told me on your last message and now it runs good .. I did exactly what you wrote and now I'm up and running..thks

And the post you made from this thread.

She runs perfect now..no more air leak.

Sounds like you are finally on the right track now...lol...Did you sand down the high spot on the head to flatten it out again Like gary55 told you??? Just wondering what you did to fix that air gap in the head is all...In one post you said you sanded it down and on another you said you replaced the head so im confused as to which one you did...Now just remember that after the first 3 tanks full, (not gallons) but 3 tanks,(approx. 150 miles), you will then be able to run full synthetic 2 cycle oil...remember to use just 3.5 to 4 ounces of oil once you change to synthetic oil...thats what the Zeda 80 requires after break-in is done...DAMIEN

This is the synthetic oil that im using when that time comes for you after break-in is done...This is the same synthetic oil that gary55 also uses as well.


I also changed out the stock NT air filter to this one that looks like a K & N air filter...I changed it out once it had engine broken-in...No adapters needed, just remove old air filter and put this one on, a direct connection, no fuss, no bother...A much needed improvement and my bike runs like a raped ape...lol.

 
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My man Joel! Good job Bro glad your up and out on the road. A recomendation I would give is a aftermarket head. Never warps, run's cooler, lasts forever, and man they just look cool. As I recall the GT6 is a 6cc so will give you better low end torque as it is higher compression than stock and the GT5 is 7cc same as stock. Both heads are a improvement over stock.
GT6 Pro Racing Cylinder Head 66cc / 80cc Gas Motorized Bicycle – Kingsmotorbikes.com

GT5 Pro Racing Cylinder Head for 66cc / 80cc (Free Shipping) Gas Motor – Kingsmotorbikes.com

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A side note you will notice the G6 head on the right needed a extended plug to work properly. I believe this has since been corrected however if you run into this problem it is easily solved with a NGK B7ES or B6ES which has a 3/4" reach. The B7HS or B6HS will work fine otherwise. It took me a while to realize that the plug length was stopping this head from performing correctly, but once addressed it ran great.
 
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