Finally

graggy

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Jul 27, 2023
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Sebring, Fl.
finally started it up only went around block once. Not idling yet needs some adjustments I guess. I never put any thread locker on it because I wanted to make sure it would work. Now I’m going to take the nuts off and put thread locker on them before riding more
 
Now I’m going to take the nuts off and put thread locker on them before riding more
DO NOT put any threadlocker locktite on the four top of cylinder nuts or studs...They MUST be re-torqued tightened every heat cycle for at least the first 200 miles and MUST only be tightened when engine is stone cold.
 
The reason why is due to thread expansion and contraction as those 4 studs/nuts threads expand and contract constantly during their heat and cool down cycles, thread locker will interfere with getting proper torque for holding down the cylinder and head properly and will result in air/fuel top and bottom gasket leakage resulting in lean running condition and eventually burn out your motor or cause it to not start, etc, etc, etc,

This adjustment must be done ONLY WHEN TOTALLY COLD, NEVER WHEN HOT OR WARM !!! or you will strip out the threads.

Those top nuts must be torqued down in an X pattern and hopefully your using a quarter inch drive torque wrench measuring in inch pounds to 144 inch pounds which is also 12 foot pounds if using a foot pound torque wrench...the 1/4 inch drive torque wrench can be found at Harbour Freight for about 20 bucks.

You will also need the proper size 1/4 drive socket to fit those nuts as well.

 
The reason why is due to thread expansion and contraction as those 4 studs/nuts threads expand and contract constantly during their heat and cool down cycles, thread locker will interfere with getting proper torque for holding down the cylinder and head properly and will result in air/fuel top and bottom gasket leakage resulting in lean running condition and eventually burn out your motor or cause it to not start, etc, etc, etc,

This adjustment must be done ONLY WHEN TOTALLY COLD, NEVER WHEN HOT OR WARM !!! or you will strip out the threads.

Those top nuts must be torqued down in an X pattern and hopefully your using a quarter inch drive torque wrench measuring in inch pounds to 144 inch pounds which is also 12 foot pounds if using a foot pound torque wrench...the 1/4 inch drive torque wrench can be found at Harbour Freight for about 20 bucks.

You will also need the proper size 1/4 drive socket to fit those nuts as well.

I’m using a snap-on 3/8 drive inch pound torque wrench set to 144 inch pounds. It’s very accurate. I put the bike away and came back and didn’t realize I didn’t turn the gas off. I was getting a little leak on the top of my fuel filter. I turned the valve off correctly now and no leak but I’m concerned about when I turn the fuel back on the line will leak again. can you put some kind of small clamp on the fuel line going into the filter to stop this?
 
What kind of clamps are good for that?
The smallest worm gear clamps you can find for the 3/16ths gasline your going to use...A small engine sales and service shop will be a better bet than an automotive store in looking for what will be just right for these little motors of ours when it comes to fuel line and clamps as they work with this stuff all the time and have the smaller sizes needed for these things.
 
The smallest worm gear clamps you can find for the 3/16ths gasline your going to use...A small engine sales and service shop will be a better bet than an automotive store in looking for what will be just right for these little motors of ours when it comes to fuel line and clamps as they work with this stuff all the time and have the smaller sizes needed for these things.
That makes sense, thanks a lot
 
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