Frame mount Huasheng 4 stroke, no acceleration

Danny, All serious Grubee owners need a small 3 jawed gear puller a rubber mallet and a block of wood. I beseech you to invest in these. I also think you should drill holes in your clutch as per previous posting. This always helps and NEVER makes things worse. The clutch becomes much more responsive. I notice recent Grubee clutches have a stronger spring on them which achieves a similar result but I'd still drill the holes because on 4 bikes it has made a great difference. The idea was Cheetoh's and it was a great breakthrough. These sprocket keys shear easily and you need gear pullers to get it off plus the clutch needs to be pulled off if it's a good tight fit.
If these kits were Russian they would probably come with a suitcase of tools like the Lada cars used to.
 
Clutch And Sprocket Of Grubee Gear Box

Jim, The clutch on the Grubee can be turned around either way without making any difference and I swap it around to wear it evenly if it looks too worn on one side. Here's another fact about Grubee gearboxes. The freewheel drive sprocket has a life span of about 4000 kms before it begins to ruin the chain and you will notice it catching on links and making horrible noises. Never put a new chain onto a sprocket that is really old because it will not mesh with it it will just wreck the new chain and it will damage the final shaft bearings. This means that your supplier needs to have a lot of drive sprockets in stock at all times and the ability to post them out quickly.

John, I had almost forgotten my old post of last August. My logic was it would hold better if the leading edge of the non hinged end would "dig" in so to speak to the bell housing. Probably is some factor there, but the main grip provided by centrifugal force. Guess I was thinking of electric brakes on trailers, etc. where the electro magnet just pushes the shoe out into the the drum and the rotation provides the real force needed to stop.

Anyway, thanks for the practical information on the clutch and the sprocket. Will keep an eye on both.

Jim
 
Just wanted to update the "GB saga" LOL. 6hrs today. while GB was apart, engaged, engager by hand and put a turnbuckle on it. (almost to tight first time) Did go back to making "clanging" noises. I was thinking that got it and did try harder to move the bike. But stops pulling at half throttle. Had it tore down and reassembled at least 10 times. Removed spring from new clutch and it functions fine. (I forgot to drill it and regret that now. lil spring be tuff)

I just wanted to report as all the time you good folks invested in my problem. Gonna leave it alone for a bit so as not to "fix" it with a sledge. Either whole new GB or fab one. From scratch gonna be big $ but was planning on making one any way. Again, thanks for all the time and energy.
 
Just wanted to update the "GB saga" LOL. 6hrs today. while GB was apart, engaged, engager by hand and put a turnbuckle on it. (almost to tight first time) Did go back to making "clanging" noises. I was thinking that got it and did try harder to move the bike. But stops pulling at half throttle. Had it tore down and reassembled at least 10 times. Removed spring from new clutch and it functions fine. (I forgot to drill it and regret that now. lil spring be tuff)

I just wanted to report as all the time you good folks invested in my problem. Gonna leave it alone for a bit so as not to "fix" it with a sledge. Either whole new GB or fab one. From scratch gonna be big $ but was planning on making one any way. Again, thanks for all the time and energy.

If your clutch is securely keyed to the shaft it isn't the problem although the new GBs have a stronger spring than previously (see picture) the problem might be the freewheel sprocket itself - maybe it's a dud and the pawls slip on the ratchet under load but I still think it's your engager not set correctly.
I find it hard to believe that your GB is any more a dud than ours are. Work carefully through all the steps that have been written down here & report back. Especially the steps on the final drive shaft.
 

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Dan I think this is a post of yours but may help to give some insight
Quote from Dan "have a Honda GX50 and grubee. Love it (bought it from some one who bought it and half assembled, parts were missing and having trouble with the GB, but don't think it is the fault of the GB)"

Dan, if all the keys are good, the freewheel is good, then maybe since parts were missing this might be the problem. When I read your post it came to me that the spacer on the engager shaft might be gone.
 

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You guys are great! Am amazed at the giving nature of MBers. Went threw every step and will again. I have missed some thing. Spacer is there. With the turnbuckle, I tightened it to the point of pulling the GB over. When the rally is over and if you guys are not sick of this, I will post a pic of each part as I re or disassemble. Honestly, I had given up on the box. LOL, if I did not give it a day or 3, it was gonna get flight tested. Trying to read the online diagrams is difficult but will go threw em again before bothering you guys again. Would hate it if it some thing simple and put you all threw this.

Thanks guys. I mean it
 
Dan I think this is a post of yours but may help to give some insight
Quote from Dan "have a Honda GX50 and grubee. Love it (bought it from some one who bought it and half assembled, parts were missing and having trouble with the GB, but don't think it is the fault of the GB)"

Dan, if all the keys are good, the freewheel is good, then maybe since parts were missing this might be the problem. When I read your post it came to me that the spacer on the engager shaft might be gone.

Good thinking Nsideous. I didn't know that was the history and I saw a picture at the start of the thread that showed the spacer but this thread isn't Dan's and it was someone elses GB.
Dan your gearbox should look like this - you can see the spacer on the final drive shaft. Post a picture of your GB with the cover off. You also need a bolt & washer on the end of the primary drive shaft as shown. Make sure your GB has the necessary parts. Read the instruction manual attached below especially pages 5&6 and 8-10.
 

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You guys are great! Am amazed at the giving nature of MBers. Went threw every step and will again. I have missed some thing. Spacer is there. With the turnbuckle, I tightened it to the point of pulling the GB over. When the rally is over and if you guys are not sick of this, I will post a pic of each part as I re or disassemble. Honestly, I had given up on the box. LOL, if I did not give it a day or 3, it was gonna get flight tested. Trying to read the online diagrams is difficult but will go threw em again before bothering you guys again. Would hate it if it some thing simple and put you all threw this.

Thanks guys. I mean it

Pity none of us live near you cos it would probably be very simple to diagnose on sight. If you move slowly through all the diagnostics described you'll fix the problem. Post pics as you go then we can see what your GB really looks like. Saw a picture on this thread I think of a gear engager cable attachment and I can see that the cable to engager bolt is not inserted fully into the engager and it will snap after repeated pulling. It just needs to be inserted correctly too avoid this so it is right up to the head of the bolt before the locking nut is tightened. A quick look will show you it is not inserted right.
 
"Step 9. 1mm tk. spacer washer next to middle gear:" Don't have one, SNORK!
Finding it hard to believe that could be it but is about 2 hrs until sunup and I am gonna be sitting in the garage, next to my bike. Waiting until my good neighbors are at least having coffee so I can fire her up.

I keep wondering, how so small an increment as a washer could do all this and why after 86 miles? But is the 3 bolt box, flexed out? Dunno, don't care. :giggle: (doing a happy dance!)

Just looked. don't have a washer that size, so the neighbors can sleep in. Hardware store opens 3 hrs. In any event, I will report back!
 

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