GEBE I'm Ready to do this.....help?

[bamabikeguy]

Heres a post, one of many, with 2 zipties inserted thru one of the extra strap holes, fastened somewhere on the frame as a backup to the strap attachment:

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=78250&postcount=20

Locktite is overkill on the 3 mounting nuts, nylocs with maybe a dab of fingernail polish when everything is aligned should be enough.

On the belt cradling in the drive gear, did you notice ANY change when you added the washer behind the gear? There is a concave side to the washer, you want the bulge of the washer pointed outwards.

When doing the frame-mounting rather than axle-mounting, aligning the wheel is easier, but washers OR moving the axlemount INSIDE the frame, on the spocket side, rather than on the outside like your pix show, might be the best bet.

Skip the kill switch til later, but it has to be bent a bit to fit on the handlebars or yoke, which is where I most often put it. Scrape a bit of the finish whereever the kill switch screw touches the metal, else it won't make proper contact.

 

[BTB Wild]

Aligning the belt

I was thinking of trying to pivot the engine some to correct the belt alignment problem....but I seem to recall there was NO play in the engine bracket holes.
I don't feel so bad using locktite there since I don't believe the engine can swivel anyway.
Looking at the rear of the bike from the backside, the belt is riding the OUTER side of the gear. So it seems to me the engine/gear needs to move to the left? I called Dennis and he said to make sure the bracket is completely down on the axle. But he said the engine needs to move to the RIGHT. This doesn't make sense to me. I tried 2 washers on the gear and it seemed to make it worse. I don't understand this because the belt needs to move to the RT side. ( from rear view again) I tried spacers on the drive ring side ( Left side) and that seemed to have no effect.
It almost seems like the left bracket side should be raised a bit? Maybe when I'm refreshed I'll take a second look and figure it out then. Thanks for your support guys.

 

[BTB Wild]

Bama, you may have it there.......if I move the bracket to the inside of the frame ( on gear side) that's gotta push the motor LEFT a bit. I'll give it a try.
And if necessary I can try the spacers again on the drive ring side too. Good thing I found this list when I did. My belt would look like celery hair in a week.

 

[larymor]

Zip ties

Don't forget to zip tie your spokes along with that safety tie to your engine / frame.

 

[bamabikeguy]

Don't forget to zip tie your spokes along with that safety tie to your engine / frame.

Way to chip in Lars !! Doesn't take much to get the experience and pass along the tips to others, does it ?

My only point about Locktite was that it is more the "icing on the cake", not something to be used when you are mixing the flour and eggs.

We just don't want new folks who read the thread months from now to get to cementing everything together before they see if things fit.

The only place on a bike where I use Locktite or JBWeld is when I have to drill and tap a hole in a frame, to attach the front strap, because there is no fender brace to attach it to. Thats when I want a cemented attachment.

I used to put a little blue Locktite on the axle nuts when I was satisfied with the fit, but my bikeshop guy uses fingernail polish, and I love the price and the fact it doesn't dry up in the tube like LT does.

 

[BTB Wild]

If I need to break this locktite, what works? And is it OK to use plastic ties for the spokes? I believe the GEBE booklet mentions wire ties.
I'm not so sure I'll have room to move the mounting bar inside the frame. I had to stretch the frame slightly to get the GEBE wheel inserted. Would it be OK to tug alittle more to fit the bracket on the inside? No problems interfering with the gears either?
I don't plan to fire er up until I get the engine aligned. Here i go again.....

 

[Hive]

Additional Observations

For what it is worth:

I prefer to attach the engine strap to the seat post, when no fender attachment is used or a fender is required - I mean directly to the bolt used to tighten the clamp. If the clamp is quick-detach, then to the post itself, using appropriate bar stock bent as required and clamp.

Alignment of the drive gear and the ring can be touchy. I had two SS washers inside the gear on the cruiser and a couple on the axle to clear the large Bontrager tire and not grind the belt. Was not perfect, but it functioned fine. The key, of course, is the perpendicular from gear center to drive ring center.

Any angle will create pressure on the outside of the ring, even if the engine bracket is moved a bit, using SS washers on the axle. Long axles are a must to offer enough lateral movement.

And, be sure the axle/rim is aligned properly to the frame/dropouts, etc.

And, if the frame is narrow (too narrow) for proper clearance and the frame is "worked" to gain clearance, the alignment may not be enough or may require constant attention, or a narrow tire is necessary to reduce odd adjustments.

Simple is best, always.

 

[Hive]

Picof Seat Post attachments

Pic to help visualize above comments re seat post and axle.

Also, this frame had recessed dropouts. Required long axle and SS washers to allow engine mount to clear outside frame and rest upon axle etc, and to offer limited shift of engine mount center to left to clear 2.25 Bontrager tire.

 

[Vaughn@Gebe]

I was able to tie Dennis down yesterday and do some reading with him on the forums. All of the info posted is from the "horses" mouth.

Let me be more specific with regard to how I will use the engine....which may be more helpful in selecting the right engine. I doubt I'll run the thing full -throttle for long. Mostly along back roads and trails at a modest pace. Torque is important as it is hilly here in PA. But which engine might withstand a 1/4 or 1/2 throttle the majority of the time? I seem to recall something doesn't perform as well at low throttle levels.......was it the 2 stroke engines or does that pertain to different style clutches? I'm getting there.......almost there with a decision.

2-strokes prefer full throttle, constantly running at slow speeds results in faster carbon buildup - have to clean carbon from spark arrestor, exhaust ports and muffler more frequently. 4-strokes are better/more friendly for running at slower speeds.

Once I get tweeked and running, I will join those of you conducting the mad experiments to quiet the engine down. Then again, I'd be happy to purchase that Solex muffler I read about.

When experimenting w/silencers, check engine for overheating - blocking/restricting the exhaust too much, will cause the engine to overheat.

I know you are going to be extra enthused today, so let me tell you what I'm going to do to the 2 T-33's just arrived.



Don't put on the blackplastic GEBE cover until this weekend, nor the kill switch, use the choke to kill the engine, during your break-in tankfulls you will get more ideas where you want the killswitch to go.

Why? Kill is supplied for emergency shut-off - put it someplace easy to access. It can always be repositioned, this is only one screw we're talking about.

What about the possibility of wedging a block of rubber or something between the gas tank and shroud?

The fact that this new Schwinn is a hard tail ( suspension seat) raises vibration concerns for sure. I'm second guessing installing this on my GT, but the fork drop-outs are not flush. There are raised weld seams and tubing in the way etc. Don't want to attempt frame mounting on my first bike either. So good vibrations here we come.

Use a few washers or nut between the fork and the lower strap, to space strap out slightly, before Tightening the axle nuts.

Oh, and what do you think about an insulator ( rubber, soft plastic) between the engine and the mounting strap and main bracket?

Don't put Anything between engine bracket and lower strap! Raising the engine height will affect belt tension.

.....#1...before you take off don't forget that safety tie from the engine to the frame to prevent throttle going full blast if metal strap comes loose. If I hadn't installed that i woulda been a goner when my metal strap came loose when the bolt came off from vibration.

Tighten Bolts During 1st 2-3 gallons fuel run through engine frequently check, re-tightening as necessary All nut & bolts - even the spokes.

 

[BTB Wild]

After a soft break-in ( walking the bike probably a mile in total distance in a effort to align the belt to the gear center)........I said the **** with it. Nothing seemed to work. Spacers on either/both sides, spacer on the gear etc. The result seemed to be the same. Actually, a small spacer UNDER the main bracket between the axle may do the trick. ( I know....frame mounting would solve this problem) I'm close, the belt drifts to the outside after pushing it 20-30 feet. But it does not seem to abrasively rub on the gear wall. Visually it appears the gear is properly aligned with the drive wheel. I'm frustrated.
But then I thought....this is a standardized kit. Not everyone will read this list, not everyone will center their belt, not everyone will exercise as much care as I with an install. With pinch roller open, the belt is perfectly centered, but engaged the belt drifts to outer gear edge. I'll buy a new belt, re-evaluate after a short break in period etc.
Here it is 3 days later and I finally fire er up. 2 starter pulls! WHAT A BLAST!!
Reminds me of being a kid again. My Dad would get behind my bike and push real fast. I remember that sensation of the bike speeding up beneath me with little effort of my own. But Dad could only sprint a few yards and push off.... and in no time I felt the drag of gravity.....the slowing down...
I'm impressed with my initial 15 minute ride. It's still very much a bicycle experience with a super Dad on the back. I'll ride er a bit and re-evaluate the system alignment etc. Thanks everyone for your help! Good post and clarification Vaughn.
I have many initial experiences to share but I'll have to start a new thread