Grubee tank leaking from mounting bracket screw.

Discussion in 'Painting, Welding, Bending and Gas Tanks' started by Lazieboy, Apr 3, 2010.

  1. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

    Grubee Tank now leaking.must of been caused from vibrations, i had'nt adjusted them for ever. slow but steady drip does anyone have a cheap easy fix i can do or do i need to get welded.

  2. tacoshell4

    tacoshell4 Member

    pm me i have about 15 new tanks i can send one cheap
  3. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

    Leaky tank

    I was hoping for a cheap fix, not a purchase. any ideas
  4. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Active Member

    Drain it, clean the area thoroughly, lay a thin coat of JB weld around it, then a layer of builders foil. For extra certainty, repeat with a second layer of JB weld and builders foil.

    I did exactly what I described above to a rock pierced gas tank on a Vauxhall Viva years ago in South Africa. It never needed any further repair.
  5. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    The only real way to fix that kind of leak is to: A. drain the tank, flush it with water REALLY good, let it sit open to air out for a few days and remove the paint that's around the leaking stud and clean the bare metal REALLY good.
    Braze the hole closed with brass brazing rod with flux and a torch.
    OR: B. buy a new tank.
    the studs are just brazed to holes in the tank and after awhile, if the original brazing was not done right or if it was too thin, the brazing will crack and a fuel leak will develop.

    j.b. weld will work as a temporay fix, but if gas gets to the j.b. weld, it will soften it and eat it away over time. J.b. weld is only epoxy and is not a permanent solution. i know, some people will argue that it will work fine and that gas will not affect it....but, i have been down this road with j.b. weld before, and all j.b. weld is, is a bandaid.
    you can probably pick up a brand new tank for $10.00-$20.00....why bother messing around trying to fix that one, only to have it start leaking again later?
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2010
  6. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

    Thanks for the input. Now i'll know what to do if (when) the sylacone fix i did starts leaking again. Wanted a quick fix to ride.
  7. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    No need for brazing. this is exactly what jB weld was made for.

    I've got a list of tips and sealing the area around the thread w/ JB weld before install is one of my build tips.
  8. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    JB weld

    I had a similar problem with my old tank and I tried JB weld and it worked for about a day and then it went back to leaking. I just bought a new tank and that fixed the problem permanently.

    Mike Frye
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    All i can say is that j.b. weld is NOT made for contact with gasoline.
    It may seal up a leak for a little while, but as soon as the gas soaks into the j.b. weld, it will soften and start to leak.
    Now, if you put j.b. weld on when you don't have a leak....of corse it will work because there is no gas present to get to the j.b. weld.
    you key words there are "before install".
  10. Luka

    Luka Member

    There is an epoxy fix that is especially made for gas tanks.

    Go have a look in an auto parts store.

    I have used regular JBWeld, to fix leaks in radiators, and gas tanks. And never had a leak. And the 'environment' that it has to stand up to, in a car, is much tougher than that on a bike.

    The most important thing about using something like JBWeld is... Preparation of the surface.

    If you fix a leak, and it leaks again, chances are you didn't get the surface clean. You didn't abrade the surface, etc.

    I once bought a subaru brat, that some teenager, (Brat. LOL), had tried to rebuild the engine on.

    Those pancake engines have a bolt in the bottom, that is pretty well hidden. If you don't know that it is there, it is easy to think you have gotten all the bolts out, and the two halves of the engine just need some 'persuasion'.

    Well, he used too much persuasion, and broke a big chunk out of the bottom of one half of the engine block.

    I cleaned it up very well. Prepared the mating surfaces. And JBWelded the chunk back in.

    Almost 20 years later, that engine is still running.

    Like I said, if you fixed it with JBWeld, and it didn't stay fixed, chances are, it was a mistake or 'shortcut taken', in the preparation.

  11. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I'll have to agree here...that is one place you don't want to leak in the future. Now the part I don't agree with is the water part...first you should not put water in a fuel tank, so what do you do. A tank can sit for a very long time and still have fumes that can ignite, so here is a guaranteed solution. Take a hose that you can run from the tailpipe of a gas burner and into the tank. When the tank is warm, and even if there is a little liquid in it, the fuel liquid and fumes are dead. Have done auto tanks this way and have never had so much as a poof when I put the flame close to the filler hole.
  12. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

    Scylacone has worked for 3 days now. fingers are crossed. put it around the screw base and when the nut tightens down on bracket sylacons flattens out around the damaged area. so far is working.
  13. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I'll have to agree with you, but i have done it with water before on motorcycle gas tanks and i have never had a problem.
    but you are right, fumes can hang around inside the tank even after it is flushed with water.