Engine Trouble happy time no first start

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by worknlikeadog, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. worknlikeadog

    worknlikeadog New Member

    I cant get my first motor bike to start i have the choke up the fuel on the clutch seems to work ok. I dont get it. please help i finally got it all put together and cant get it started at all

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    1. Fuel in the carburetor? Pull bowl drain out and see if fuel drains out.
    2. Does your spark plug fire?
    3. Is it wired correctly. Not just think, but is it.
    4. Choke is on in the "UP" position.

    Lets start with those two.

    I see this is your 2nd post...have you seen this???
    These are the things that I do, I see that others such as the seals (which I've never had one go bad) mentioned. All these mods or replacements are most likely less then $50.00. Choose what works for you, ignore the rest, but here you have them.

    1. Unpack engine
    2. Check for any missing parts
    3. Remove head
    4. Mill head (flat glass and 230 (or finer) grit sand paper. Rub gasket surface to insure it is flat. Check the cylinder also.
    5. Tap cylinder stud holes to insure they are taped to the bottom.
    6. Discard all studs and nuts.
    7. Replace studs with Metric 8.8 (US Grade 5) Replace nuts with locking nuts. 8mm studs are either 1.0 or 1.25 thread, 6mm studs are 1.0 thread. 8mmX1.0 is not common, but I have 1 engine with them.
    8. Replace spark plug with a NGK or the like.
    9. Replace spark plug wire and boot (check with lawnmower supply) or rob from old lawnmower. Use wire core lead.
    10. Mount the engine properly, no gaps between the bike tubes and engine mounts.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Engine Mounting/
    11. Torque 8mm to 150 to 200 INCH POUNDS
    12. Torque 6mm to 60-70 INCH POUNDS
    13. I install cylinder studs with lock tite, and let set overnight
    14. I coat the head gasket with Copper Kote
    15. May need to bend exhaust pipe for crank or frame clearance. Recommend using heat.
    16. Remove or cap magneto white wire off.
    17. Re solder blue wire on magneto.
    18. Make sure all wires have a good connection and use tape or better yet heat shrink.
    19. Hook up kill wires AFTER you get engine running.
    20. Try not to drill holes in the bike frame.
    21. Do away with the clutch cable routing; there are a number of options.
    http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Homemade Mods/
    If you want to make yourself, PM me and I’ll give you a material list.
    22. On my kit the rag joint had gauge (Metric) 8.8 bolts, If not replace them. I replaced the nuts with lock nuts.
    23. I sealed the wires coming from the magneto out of the engine with RTV.
    24. Place a “O” ring in the carburetor throat.
    25. Some say replace the axle with a better one. Never had a axle bend on me.
    26. For coaster brakes…Some say trim the cap, but I don't like it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3IPgvZLccI or a file of sorts can be used.
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011
  3. worknlikeadog

    worknlikeadog New Member

    great thanks I got it started just didnt try hard enough
    now it wont idle
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    The screw on the side of the carburetor (not the bowl screw) is to set the idle. If it's (carburetor) sticking, you may have the carburetor sleeve installed 180 deg out. The cut away on the carburetor piston lines up with the idle screw.