Well, this idea still lives.
The gearing ratio issues can been resolved. by using an internal gear hub(IGH) on the rear wheel.
Ratios range from 1.00 to 3.25:1.
With a 12t clutch, a 48t and 24t chainring and a 25t rear sprockets, gearing ranges from 4.17 to 13.54:1.
Or a 120t timing pulley and a 23t pulley clutch, a 27t chainring and a 25t rear sprocket results in 4.83 to 15.7:1
Perfect in both cases.
A #41 48t chainring sprocket on the right side of the BB is drilled to bolt to an SBP freewheel,
which screws onto the SBP crank arm.
410 A 48 Tooth for 5 hole Flange type freewheel (staton-inc.com)
Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty - Sick Bike Parts
Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty - Sick Bike Parts
The inboard 24t chainring is 1/2 x 1/8 and uses a BMX chain to connect to the IGH.
The 48t and the 24t chainrings bolt to each other, using 5 M6 bolts.
Now comes the interesting part.
The 12-tooth 3/4" clutch is moved to the right side of the engine.
The clutch will spin clockwise, which is ok.
The pull start, fan shroud and fan is discarded.
Of course, the engine now needs an electric starter,
or a cable-activated manual/centrifugal clutch,
The clutch needs to be mounted on the flywheel.
To do so, the flywheel needs to be removed and
a flat 4" circle spot-faced/machined to accept a
5-bolt go-kart sprocket hub.
4" x 4" Go-Kart Live Axle Hub with 1" to 3/4" Step-Down | eBay
A 3/4" keyed shaft about 3" long is welded into the hub.
So now the clutch slides onto the shafted hub, which is
bolted onto the engine flywheel.
A #41 chain connects to the chainring, and
completes the conversion.
The weak link MIGHT be the flywheel nut,
which could be locktited, lockwashered or
the flywheel nut can be brazed to the crankshaft.
This is my Plan B, in case my Plan A, which is
running engine power through the bottom bracket fails.
No expensive custom welding or fabricating parts
Minor machining and welding.
No relying on thin 30mm BB bearings.