Help! I tightenend a nut too much and now the threads snapped!
Randall
Active Member
To me or KC?
Randall
Active Member
Again, time is a good teacher. Give the guy time to learn. We were all there at one point. I stand by my original statement.
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
It was to KC but tbh should be to both of you since Mr Nahom had already given his reply to the post that you dragged back up and he had dealt with it perfectly well on page one.
I thought we had all moved on, back to topic, discussing the best replacement studs or studs made from bolts and how to loctite them in... in the "traditional forum way"!
Steve Best
Well-Known Member
I gotta wonder how someone who can write that well can make mistake after mistake?
It almost seems like Munchausen syndrome...
It almost seems like Munchausen syndrome...
Nahom
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I threaded in new bolt to stick out. I screwed the new nut in to secure the muffler- I realise the the initial nut was slipping because it was the wrong kind- not the kind with the blue plastic ring on the end- do you know the one I mean? The exhaust is now on super tight and I've put an exhaust strap on too.
I don't know why but I set the tensioner to a good position where the freeplay in the chain is a good amount. I rode it for 10 mins continuously at 20mph and when I stopped to check the play in the chain has rapidly increased- is this normal? In only ten mins? Note the tensioner position on the arm is fixed because the nuts are super tight and the height of the wheel is the same too- that nut is super tight too.
I changed the chain and 10 mins of riding the play has increased again hugely! Is what I'm supposed to do?- keep riding for 10 mins and adjusting tensioner to tighten slack after stopping- until the play stops increasing so massively?- I knew that chains stretched but I didn't know this quick!
If this is normal after how many mins will this having to readjust every 20mins at 20mph riding pace will this not be necessary after chain stabilises.
Or better after how many miles?
If this is not normal- why is this happening do you think?
I don't know why but I set the tensioner to a good position where the freeplay in the chain is a good amount. I rode it for 10 mins continuously at 20mph and when I stopped to check the play in the chain has rapidly increased- is this normal? In only ten mins? Note the tensioner position on the arm is fixed because the nuts are super tight and the height of the wheel is the same too- that nut is super tight too.
I changed the chain and 10 mins of riding the play has increased again hugely! Is what I'm supposed to do?- keep riding for 10 mins and adjusting tensioner to tighten slack after stopping- until the play stops increasing so massively?- I knew that chains stretched but I didn't know this quick!
If this is normal after how many mins will this having to readjust every 20mins at 20mph riding pace will this not be necessary after chain stabilises.
Or better after how many miles?
If this is not normal- why is this happening do you think?
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Yeah that's normal with the kit chain. What do they make it out of, chewing gum? I wonder what twelve full links measures now? Should be 12 inches, but what is it now? It's alarming that this is normal. I have vowed to never use my kit chain. 415 is super heavy anyway, and that has to be harder to control.
Still, I bought a narrow sprocket to run a 1/8" width 410 BMX chain but the hole is too bloody small for the shaft. Knowing that the hole isn't in the centre anyway I saw this as an opportunity to file the hole bigger and more central at the same time.. .. Bloody hell it takes a long time to hand file a little bit of material off the inside of that hole! At least when you're trying to keep it circular, straight, and not flared.
I'm thinking about abandoning it since I put it down a couple of weeks ago to make a cup of coffee and then never finished it. I can try grinding the fat 415 stock kit sprocket to make it fit a 410 BMX chain instead. At least then I can use a power tool.
KMC 510HX nickel plated is a good BMX chain. Less than ten quid on eBay.
I'm pulling my hair out trying to order M8 x 1.0 pitch grade 8.8 studding.
All the sites want me to buy a pack of twenty. Or charge me £11.99 carriage on top.
They're all really only interested in industry clients. Not individual customers.
One site I thought I had it. Only £7 carriage charge, though I only found out that detail after going all the way through the checkout process.
Then I thought I better just double check what I was ordering, and I realised that it was coarse 1.25 thread. No fine thread anything on the whole gaddamn site.
Seriously this is not an easy hobby. Everything with these generic engines is a proper ball ache!
Still, I bought a narrow sprocket to run a 1/8" width 410 BMX chain but the hole is too bloody small for the shaft.
Knowing that the hole isn't in the centre anyway I saw this as an opportunity to file the hole bigger and more central at the same time.. .. Bloody hell it takes a long time to hand file a little bit of material off the inside of that hole! At least when you're trying to keep it circular, straight, and not flared.I'm thinking about abandoning it since I put it down a couple of weeks ago to make a cup of coffee and then never finished it.
I can try grinding the fat 415 stock kit sprocket to make it fit a 410 BMX chain instead. At least then I can use a power tool. KMC 510HX nickel plated is a good BMX chain. Less than ten quid on eBay.
I'm pulling my hair out trying to order M8 x 1.0 pitch grade 8.8 studding.
All the sites want me to buy a pack of twenty. Or charge me £11.99 carriage on top.
They're all really only interested in industry clients. Not individual customers.
One site I thought I had it. Only £7 carriage charge, though I only found out that detail after going all the way through the checkout process.
Then I thought I better just double check what I was ordering, and I realised that it was coarse 1.25 thread. No fine thread anything on the whole gaddamn site.
Seriously this is not an easy hobby. Everything with these generic engines is a proper ball ache!
Last edited:
Nahom
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Wow you sound real experienced with these things- how long have you been tinkering with MB's?
I think I'm a little too much of a newbie to try experimenting with non- Chinese kit items right now- how many miles would you say the original kit bike lasts if maintained properly?
Yeah it makes me mad that the only UK supplier of things suited MB's is PetrolScooter-
the problem with China is that it takes too long yet free- the problem with the US is that shipping costs are huge and seem ridiculous for cheap items- less than a quid pack of bolts for example.
Does the grade of the studding really matter?
I think I'm a little too much of a newbie to try experimenting with non- Chinese kit items right now- how many miles would you say the original kit bike lasts if maintained properly?
Yeah it makes me mad that the only UK supplier of things suited MB's is PetrolScooter-
the problem with China is that it takes too long yet free- the problem with the US is that shipping costs are huge and seem ridiculous for cheap items- less than a quid pack of bolts for example.
Does the grade of the studding really matter?
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I got my eBay generic engine about 11 months ago. It arrived with a nut mashed onto the head stud at a jaunty angle so I have to replace that at the very least. I thought while I save for a SBP shift kit (and the studs from the same people) I would just do a few bits of preventative maintenance, like the newbie threads and stickied suggested would be wise... Skip forward 11 months to now, and it's still in pieces!
I built a decent mountain bike though. I read the forum every day whenever I'm cooking or when the adverts are on, or just want a read of something so I pick up lots of information.
Petrol scooter have a few bits n pieces but actually not that many of the spares you'll need. Annoyingly that means no studs.
Sometimes the Chinese sellers on eBay can surprise you with the delivery times.
but then sometimes the stuff never arrives at all! Yeah I think the kit studs are just too low grade. I don't know if 8.8 is the bare minimum. I would be tempted to try some stainless ones or anything really at the moment as long as I can find it in a m8 x 1.0 thread. I don't know what the stainless steel ratings mean though. I think they just refer to how stainless the stainless steel is rather than how much tensile strength it has.
HumanPerson
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you seem like a level headced person and i like you for thatI got my eBay generic engine about 11 months ago. It arrived with a nut mashed onto the head stud at a jaunty angle so I have to replace that at the very least. I thought while I save for a SBP shift kit (and the studs from the same people) I would just do a few bits of preventative maintenance, like the newbie threads and stickied suggested would be wise... Skip forward 11 months to now, and it's still in pieces!
I read the forum every day whenever I'm cooking or when the adverts are on, or just want a read of something so I pick up lots of information.
Petrol scooter have a few bits n pieces but actually not that many of the spares you'll need. Annoyingly that means no studs.
Sometimes the Chinese sellers on eBay can surprise you with the delivery times.
Yeah I think the kit studs are just too low grade. I don't know if 8.8 is the bare minimum. I would be tempted to try some stainless ones or anything really at the moment as long as I can find it in a m8 x 1.0 thread. I don't know what the stainless steel ratings mean though. I think they just refer to how stainless the stainless steel is rather than how much tensile strength it has.
Instead of going to buy the modified voo-doo exhaust i think i am going to make a header then get one of the small expansion champers with the small looking muffler on it from http://www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1241.htm
Not sure where you're at but i have 2 engines for parts and a metric ton of other parts studs included LOL ya need some parts let me know what ya need and if i have it and you pay postage you can have them for free
RideSafe!
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