Hi Everyone,
Just thought I might add a few comments to aid in solving problems concerning stripped head bolt threads in the cylinder assembly.
There are 5 different possible reasons the head boltholes could lose the threads. Reason #1 is the material used in making the cylinder. #2 concerns the operating temperature. Reason #3 is defined by the metal curing process. Reason #4 could be the direct result of incorrect torque settings. #5 could be issue with bolt quality, correct washers, and bolt size.
Problem #1, #3, and #5 can vary from one production run to another. Problem #2 can be the result of head design, and cooling area. Problem #4 is almost always the fault of the owner/mechanic/dealer.
Since we can't control the metal used in production [problem #1], we can at least alter the outcome of problems #2, #3, #4, and #5.
Several steps can be taken to lower the operating temperature of the motor [problem #2]. Don’t let the motor idle for a long period of time while stopped. Installing a copper head gasket will also lower the temperature. Adding copper washers under the 10 MM spark plug on most NE motors will drop the temperature a little more. Painting the cylinder will also reduce the head temperature.
Problem #3 appears to be isolated to late 2007, and 2008 models. My research has shown the cylinders used on the later production NE/SE motors appear to have “brittle” threads, and can easily “shear”. After consulting several metal experts, they suggested the metal wasn’t cured correctly, and the threads “shear” because of hard aluminum. If the metal is soft the threads usually round off, but if hard “all” the threads are removed with the bolt, and the hole looks like it was “reamed”. So far the cure seems to be simple. Remove the cylinder; remove the valves, springs, keepers, etc. Bake the cylinder [now is a good time to paint it with black heat paint] @ 325 degrees for 2 hours, let it cool normally [approx. 2 more hours], and the metal is re-cured. The experts informed me, that it works better on motors with low time. The motors in question came with the aluminum intake manifold from the factory.
Problem #4 is caused by tightening the head bolts when the motor is “hot”, or by not using a torque wrench, or using the wrong torque settings. Never torque a “hot” motor, and always use the correct settings.
Problem #5 is repairable by removing the in-correct washers, and replacing any suspect bolts or washers. If the head is milled, make sure the bolts are shortened and don’t bottom out.
Hope this helps,