Huesheng 53cc 50 mph target

[Deleted member 26224]

Yep. I would definitely call it a "good design".


My 305cc build will be more reliable than any chinagirl build, and probably more reliable than a HS or Predator as well since I am using a heavy duty Briggs commercial engine - not a chinese clone. I could likely put 10's of thousands of miles on it if I wanted with just oil changes and belt swaps.

Have you built one yet? You can post other people’s builds just starting to remind me of someone...

That turbo frame design might only be good for bonneville. The first stuff I see is the pedal crank is really high and it’s gotta be uncomfy especially with the grips that are lower than the seat. Another thing is the shock spring action is too far away from the pivot to allow enough suspension travel at the axle. A small shock like that is designed for a 4-bar type system where swingarm to shock travel ratio is approaching 3:1, here the swingarm travels less than double the amount the shock does so it probably only has 2” or less usable travel at the axle. Also it requires a softer than normal (for that size shock) spring to give much action.

 

[JerboaJohn]

i wouldn't even ride a $1200 build with a 212. but peeps are doing it with huffys and yeah they break and some get hurt. double the cost and half the cc's and I'm comfy,,
Hell someone built a strong CG and snapped their frame in 2 weeks. But that doesn't deter anyone. he didn't even get bashed for choice of frame.
go hi end motorsports; in the 90s, a world class builder put a BB Chevy in a Chevette with pipe frame and it made the cover of CarCraft. it's drivable. but would you take it everywhere, hellno lol

 

[FNTPuck]

Have you built one yet? You can post other people’s builds just starting to remind me of someone...

That turbo frame design might only be good for bonneville. The first stuff I see is the pedal crank is really high and it’s gotta be uncomfy especially with the grips that are lower than the seat. Another thing is the shock spring action is too far away from the pivot to allow enough suspension travel at the axle. A small shock like that is designed for a 4-bar type system where swingarm to shock travel ratio is approaching 3:1, here the swingarm travels less than double the amount the shock does so it probably only has 2” or less usable travel at the axle. Also it requires a softer than normal (for that size shock) spring to give much action.

All that is fun to say from looking at it, but without riding the bike you have no idea how it rides or how it works. It is clearly meant to be a race bike and not a daily driver, so things like the riding position and suspension will be tailored for that.

Mine may be a better example since it will be registered and plated for driving on the street legally. It's not a 212 since its getting common, but I am almost done with a big bore. Frame is just about complete, just need tapered steering stem bearings for the motorcycle fork and to widen the rear. Engine has been test fit and started up, just need the transmission setup once the frame is done.

7" stretch on steel Sun beach cruiser, gusseted frame, boxed and braced steering tube, reinforced dropouts, 1/4" steel motor plate welded on a 1" square brace, KE100 Kawasaki triple tree, 17" moped wheels(24" OD), DOT tires. Engine is mounted horizontal instead of vertical so I can move it more forward to both keep the front end down and allow working pedals - not super tiny short armed ones. No u-bolts or department store brackets - everything is welded and reinforced. Being built for acceleration over speed but should still top out at ~90mph and get there very quickly.

I have owned and raced many motorcycles, so have experience with going fast on 2 wheels and doing it safely. Nothing wrong with a high powered bicycle build IF you know what you are doing and are taking the right safety precautions. Not everyone wants to spend a bunch of money on motorcycle tires, moped wheels, and heavy forks and not everyone has the ability to reinforce a frame...but some are willing to do it for a safe high powered build. Would I throw a gasbike 212 bolt-on kit on a stock Huffy? Heck no.

 

[Frogslayer]

Holy thread theft. Over 2/3 of these posts have absolutely nothing to do with the 53cc in it's attempt to seek 50mph.

 

[Spare_Parts]

What's getting me is the people (person) bitching about cg bikes. Say they are all junk, don't, all of them are kits, last blah blah blah. Seems lately everyone is getting put into groups by others. At least that's how I see it. If you build a bike it's cool. From a pos old walmart bike and a $90 ebay cg to a custom frame big bore 4 stroke.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

All that is fun to say from looking at it, but without riding the bike you have no idea how it rides or how it works. It is clearly meant to be a race bike and not a daily driver, so things like the riding position and suspension will be tailored for that.

So I take it you have ridden the bike? Seen a video of it running? Know the full history of the build and design process? Are connected telepathically to the builder? Built a full suspension frame?

If you answered “no” to any of those questions, then you are talking out of your ass.

Yesterday I searched through your posts trying to find one of your builds. I found you talking a lot about 212 builds but came across a post where you’re talking about gear ratios where I realized you have not actually built one.

I suggest you do more research in the shop before giving advice or trying to argue points with such certainty. Telling me “without riding the bike...” is not an argument. Look at the suspension and read what I wrote, then argue my points. I can make these statements because I have actually built stuff, I’ve thought about it, researched the s**t out of it, and even drawn up builds in 3D before I started cutting anything. You have no idea what “design” is, pal.

I have also put 20k just on 212s. So when you say stuff like 6:1 is a good minimum ratio for acceleration, I know you are talking out of your ass, cuz I have gone down to a 6.4 which isn’t enough to beat even a bus off the line.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

Far as your build, you got most of it right except for starting with a bicycle frame. Bracing up a frame too much will introduce a lot of stress that could have been avoided by building a frame from scratch with the right wall thickness tubing for the application. By starting with a bicycle frame you are setting yourself up for a lot of headache. Even if that 300cc is a Flathead it will still tear up a bicycle frame with the torque. A frame that is braced up reasonably can only handle about 8hp reliably for 10s of thousands of miles, and no more torque than what a ~150cc can do. Also moped wheels aren’t necessarily going to be up to it. Better than bicycle wheels of course but the hubs will not make it, you need to go with dirtbike hardware especially if it is a hardtail frame.

That is why when I built my final gas build, I started with a frame that was designed for more power; and used .093” wall tubing in the rear to handle the torque channeled through the rear half. Early pic with no front mount link or pedal chain. You’re building something with way more torque than this, what is the worst that can happen?

See here, you can see my pedal crank is too close to the seat in the pics, and it is clear in the riding pic that it is “cramped”.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Tony, I love that bike!
Do you have a build thread somewhere?

 

[Deleted member 26224]

I

Tony, I love that bike!
Do you have a build thread somewhere?

Thank you!

 

[FNTPuck]

So I take it you have ridden the bike? Seen a video of it running? Know the full history of the build and design process? Are connected telepathically to the builder? Built a full suspension frame?

If you answered “no” to any of those questions, then you are talking out of your ass.

Yesterday I searched through your posts trying to find one of your builds. I found you talking a lot about 212 builds but came across a post where you’re talking about gear ratios where I realized you have not actually built one.

I suggest you do more research in the shop before giving advice or trying to argue points with such certainty. Telling me “without riding the bike...” is not an argument. Look at the suspension and read what I wrote, then argue my points. I can make these statements because I have actually built stuff, I’ve thought about it, researched the sh*t out of it, and even drawn up builds in 3D before I started cutting anything. You have no idea what “design” is, pal.

I have also put 20k just on 212s. So when you say stuff like 6:1 is a good minimum ratio for acceleration, I know you are talking out of your ass, cuz I have gone down to a 6.4 which isn’t enough to beat even a bus off the line.

Lol you neglect the fact that I actually spoke directly with the BUILDER who is a friend of mine on Facebook. You claim to know more from looking at a picture than the person who built and rides it??? You are the one talking out your ass. I have spoken first hand with him and asked tons of questions about not only that bike but many other 212 builds from different builders. The minimum 6:1 is what is widely agreed as just that - the MINIMUM recommended for a 212. Some drivers would like more gearing for acceleration, but some are just fine with the 6:1 and prefer the top speed. Not everyone wants a stump puller that tops out at 40mph...I get that from stock DIY self assembled chinagirls.

You have no idea what research and planning I have done nor my experience. While this is my first big 4stroke with PEDALS, I have built close to 20 2strokes, 6 or 7 49cc 4strokes, and have owned, built, and raced multiple motorcycles in all classes from a Ninja250 to a vintage KZ650 to 1441cc monsters and everything in between. I have gone through many builds and spoke with many who have built much higher performing bikes than yours before taking this route. I have drafted designs (took multiple courses in CAD, and actually taught CNC machining Senior year in high school nearly 15 years ago at a tech magnet, I own a nice 3D printer, and have experience in drafting and prototyping), and have many many many more miles on ACTUAL motorcycles than you do(well over 100k miles). I know what I am doing.

I do not post any of my work on this forum due to people like YOU who think you know everything because you threw together a few slow bikes that ran for a year or two and think nobody else could possibly do the same or better. I will post it when it is DONE and RUNNING, so there won't be any room for the recliner reviewers to share their opinions. I can search through your posts and find absolutely no proof of you knowing anything at all, just countless criticizing and a few random pictures .

Keep your armchair engineering to yourself. Once my build is done you are more than welcome to prove yourself in a race - any start speed to any finish speed you want. I should be good to go by next years events in Cali. If you are brave enough for a dig run I'll even spot you a few bike lengths to make it fair. If you are not willing to compete and back up your claimed massive wealth of knowledge, then you are nothing more than a keyboard warrior and should just stfu.