Lights from the hardware store
- Thread starter RedBaronX
- Start date
skrufryder
Member
next time ask were they keep the screw off
SimpleSimon
Active Member
Why would she want to meet the stock boy?
fasteddy
Member
Simon, that was a good one.
Steve.
Steve.
TerraPilot
Member
- Local time
- 8:21 AM
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- Sep 11, 2009
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- 38
James65 is a perfect example of someone who should be going to all the trouble of
rigging a 12 volt lighting system for his bike. All those who are finishing out their MBs with any thoughts towards authenticity or miniature replicas of a real motor cycles including those 1915 Harley Replicas are completely justified in pursuing the 12 volt lights. James...........your Schwinn Stingray is drop dead beautiful.
I'm saying this because, plain and simple, I'm not trying to emulate anything in particular with my bike. My fun has been the pursuit of "its pretty only if it works, is safe, and economical. If my bike turns out with a little curb appeal it will be purely coincidental. Plus weight is a major consideration because I'm trying to preserve a great pedalablity or human power efficiency. Also, I must be able to pack my bike on a trunk mounted bicycle rack. Both mine and my wife's come in at around 115 lbs total. The fact that 99 percent of my driving is going to be daylight or at most twilight driving carrying around a sealed lead acid battery (SLA) at 7 pounds is absolutely out of the question. HECK!! Technology is moving so fast that I'll probably find a reasonable price on Lipoly battery and charger next week and the whole idea begins all over again. Until then there are way to many ways to get some tolerable LED lighting that runs great off of nothing more than penlight (AAA) size batteries. I'm simply trying to encourage those with an eye more towards a much cheaper LED alternative. There are always going to be those that money is no object but I get the biggest kick out or most light for the dollar and all this 12 volt stuff is skipping out on some great Light Emitting Diode low voltage stuff. With this in mind I'll be more that happy to tell you what I've come up with. Just don't expect it to be all that pretty. LOL
Bob
rigging a 12 volt lighting system for his bike. All those who are finishing out their MBs with any thoughts towards authenticity or miniature replicas of a real motor cycles including those 1915 Harley Replicas are completely justified in pursuing the 12 volt lights. James...........your Schwinn Stingray is drop dead beautiful.
I'm saying this because, plain and simple, I'm not trying to emulate anything in particular with my bike. My fun has been the pursuit of "its pretty only if it works, is safe, and economical. If my bike turns out with a little curb appeal it will be purely coincidental. Plus weight is a major consideration because I'm trying to preserve a great pedalablity or human power efficiency. Also, I must be able to pack my bike on a trunk mounted bicycle rack. Both mine and my wife's come in at around 115 lbs total. The fact that 99 percent of my driving is going to be daylight or at most twilight driving carrying around a sealed lead acid battery (SLA) at 7 pounds is absolutely out of the question. HECK!! Technology is moving so fast that I'll probably find a reasonable price on Lipoly battery and charger next week and the whole idea begins all over again. Until then there are way to many ways to get some tolerable LED lighting that runs great off of nothing more than penlight (AAA) size batteries. I'm simply trying to encourage those with an eye more towards a much cheaper LED alternative. There are always going to be those that money is no object but I get the biggest kick out or most light for the dollar and all this 12 volt stuff is skipping out on some great Light Emitting Diode low voltage stuff. With this in mind I'll be more that happy to tell you what I've come up with. Just don't expect it to be all that pretty. LOL
Bob
Last edited:
RedBaronX
Member
Waterproof switch, ready to mount!
Since my bike has to live outside (at least, until I bring it in for the winter) the light switch has to be weather proof. Googling for weatherproof switches, I was finding ones that were upwards of $20 and more AND still would have needed to be encased in something to mount it to the bike. So....
I take this switch from Radio Shack:
dropped into a PVC pipe cap from Home Depot like this:
Drilled two holes in the bottom of the cap for the wires, and filled the cap with epoxy once the switch was soldered to the wires and ready to be sealed... That keeps water out of the connection, but the switch itself probably isn't waterproof... so...
Bought some Neoprene gloves:
and stuffed the switch into the THUMB (switch towards the tip of the thumb). The cut end of the thumb is zip-tied around the wires that come out of the cap to look like this:
and I will be mounting it to the neck with a hose clamp (tucked in by the tank). The overall outside diameter is 1.25 inches.
if I had fully planned out the rubber glove waterproofing idea before buying the switch, I probably would have gone with a toggle or a push button as opposed to a rocker, but live and learn.
The most expensive component was the glove, and since you only need one, keep the other around for opening tight pickle jars... Gloves $8, switch $2, PVC cap 39 cents, epoxy $4 (but you don't use much)
Since my bike has to live outside (at least, until I bring it in for the winter) the light switch has to be weather proof. Googling for weatherproof switches, I was finding ones that were upwards of $20 and more AND still would have needed to be encased in something to mount it to the bike. So....
I take this switch from Radio Shack:
dropped into a PVC pipe cap from Home Depot like this:
Drilled two holes in the bottom of the cap for the wires, and filled the cap with epoxy once the switch was soldered to the wires and ready to be sealed... That keeps water out of the connection, but the switch itself probably isn't waterproof... so...
Bought some Neoprene gloves:
and I will be mounting it to the neck with a hose clamp (tucked in by the tank). The overall outside diameter is 1.25 inches.
if I had fully planned out the rubber glove waterproofing idea before buying the switch, I probably would have gone with a toggle or a push button as opposed to a rocker, but live and learn.
The most expensive component was the glove, and since you only need one, keep the other around for opening tight pickle jars... Gloves $8, switch $2, PVC cap 39 cents, epoxy $4 (but you don't use much)
arkives1
Member
Lights from the hardware store`
Like my good friend James 65 my lighting system is 12 volt SLA. I use my lights anytime I ride, day or night. The Occ Chopper is rather small and sits low so visibility is a real issue. As it is on a bike of any size. I'm more concerned about BEING seen than being able to see by the headlight. My turn signals and headlight are all LED and will run continuosly for several hours on an 8AH battery. The headlight is a 4 watt high intensity LED and is plenty bright. I figured I could lose enough weight off my belly to make up for the weight of the battery. I think mine is only 2 or 3 lbs. Until I find a Lithium battery that will do the job as cheaply and for the hours I need, I'll keep this one charged.
Like my good friend James 65 my lighting system is 12 volt SLA. I use my lights anytime I ride, day or night. The Occ Chopper is rather small and sits low so visibility is a real issue. As it is on a bike of any size. I'm more concerned about BEING seen than being able to see by the headlight. My turn signals and headlight are all LED and will run continuosly for several hours on an 8AH battery. The headlight is a 4 watt high intensity LED and is plenty bright. I figured I could lose enough weight off my belly to make up for the weight of the battery. I think mine is only 2 or 3 lbs. Until I find a Lithium battery that will do the job as cheaply and for the hours I need, I'll keep this one charged.
TerraPilot
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- Local time
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- Messages
- 38
BaronX;
That water proof switch is what I mean by pretty. Getting caught in any rain at all should require that switch. BTW where did you get that nasty gash in your middle fingernail?
That water proof switch is what I mean by pretty. Getting caught in any rain at all should require that switch. BTW where did you get that nasty gash in your middle fingernail?
RedBaronX
Member
I think that's just paint or dirt 'cuz there's nothing there right now...
I'll add that I soldered all the connections and coated the connections with epoxy. I happened to use marine epoxy-- it's what I had on hand because it has a slower drying time (45 minutes minimum), so it's easier to work with, at least for something like this. You can handle it with your fingers to apply it without fearing you're going to glue yourself to the project...
Lithium-Polymer batteries are used in abundance in the radio control model hobby. A few things about LiPos. Fully charged voltage per cell, 4.25. Maximum safe discharged voltage, 3.0. Lipos have come a long way in the last few years.but there is a very slight chance of explosion. 6000 degree white hot fires if one ignites. The 'A123' type are more stable. The best prices on Lipos and chargers are at www.hobbycity.com A couple of 3 cell packs of 2200 mAh rating will run you $18.00 plus S&H. Hook them up w/ adaptor from hobbycity to give 4400 mAh rating and you'll have a decent, small and lightweight power source. Hobbycity's 'Accucell 6' multichemistry charger is #1 world seller for r/c models.
