Exhaust mount- intake- exhaust-stud size

[Fox]

I tell ya, I have had it with the stripped bolts and studs.. Now one of the exhaust studs is stripped.. I can get around this problem by screwing another nut down over the old one temporarily.. but I've really had this.

Are they screwed into the engine or are they just belted in? I ask because I now intend on removing all of them and replacing them with quality.

I am about to move into the country and have to rely on this bike for transport.. I cant if the nuts cant hold onto the studs.

~Fox

 

[Hugemoth]

Yes, the studs are just screwed in.

Moth

 

[Guest]

Use grade 5 hardware, or if you can find it, AN hardware, you won't ever have another problem.

Don't use grade 8 hardware.

 

[azbill]

this is what I bought to make my own studs (Metric B7 Alloy Steel Threaded Rod M6 Size, 1.00mm Pitch )not sure about head bolts but this does exhaust, intake, and mounting studs
I got a metre of it for 6.40 + shipping at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com)
so, I guess the answer is M6 Size, 1.00mm Pitch

 

[chrisnbush]

Thank you for this information. Hey, I am not nearly as technical (!) as I thought I was after joining this group... Here is the dumb question of the day: If I buy these stud rods, do I cut them with a hack saw ? Is there a better tool, so I don't have burrs or something, I guess I can just gently file them off.

I have had a number of failures now, of studs and brackets. Tired, but coming back on line. Here is another question. It seems to me that the studs have two possibilities for loosening: 1) the stud itself in the "threaded hole", and 2) the nut on the end of the thread. Locktite and all that, but I am constantly tightening them. Why wouldn't a "standard" hex bolt i.e. M6, 1.00 mm be better ? They have drilled heads at mcmaster also, thinking of someway to put like a cotter pin thru them to keep them from loosening, or wiring them or something !

this is an old thread but maybe you are still on it

Thanks IA

cb

 

[fetor56]

Thank you for this information. Hey, I am not nearly as technical (!) as I thought I was after joining this group... Here is the dumb question of the day: If I buy these stud rods, do I cut them with a hack saw ? Is there a better tool, so I don't have burrs or something, I guess I can just gently file them off.

I have had a number of failures now, of studs and brackets. Tired, but coming back on line. Here is another question. It seems to me that the studs have two possibilities for loosening: 1) the stud itself in the "threaded hole", and 2) the nut on the end of the thread. Locktite and all that, but I am constantly tightening them. Why wouldn't a "standard" hex bolt i.e. M6, 1.00 mm be better ? They have drilled heads at mcmaster also, thinking of someway to put like a cotter pin thru them to keep them from loosening, or wiring them or something !

this is an old thread but maybe you are still on it

Thanks IA

cb

It's much cheaper if u buy a long section(3 Feet) of good quality rod and just cut what u need and keep the rest for spares.
Cut a small section of what u need with a hacksaw then SLIGHTLY round-off that end with an angle grinder(or file etc if u don't have a grinder)
Always have a nut on the section your cutting so u can work the nut over that section you've just rounded-off so your absolutely sure the thread is workable.
Remove existing studs with one nut placed over another nut...hold one nut then turn the other.
Loctite new studs in the reverse direction u removed existing studs.
You don't really need a cotter pin or anything like that...a simple spring washer works well.

 

[nobody_21us]

I used the same "all thread" for my headpins and made a new gasket from some gasket material. Is working great!

 

[chrisnbush]

Thank you - could you give a little more explanation ?

...Remove existing studs with one nut placed over another nut...hold one nut then turn the other....Loctite new studs in the reverse direction u removed existing studs....

Not sure what you mean on order of Loctite. I have 2 studs, a spacer, and 2 threaded holes on the engine. What I would do, is apply loctite to the studs, and thread them into the holes. Then place the spacer over the studs, then tighten the washer + nut down on the spacer, then loctite the protruding end of the stud. Is this what you mean ?

Neat trick with the nuts ! I have been using pliers (!) and over time certainly damaging the threads. But if I thread on two nuts back to back they will lock, and neither will move. If I hold one and try to turn the other, not sure how this is going to "back out the stud" ? Could you put it another way ?

Thanks

Crashed and Burned

 

[fetor56]

...Remove existing studs with one nut placed over another nut...hold one nut then turn the other....Loctite new studs in the reverse direction u removed existing studs....

Not sure what you mean on order of Loctite. I have 2 studs, a spacer, and 2 threaded holes on the engine. What I would do, is apply loctite to the studs, and thread them into the holes. Then place the spacer over the studs, then tighten the washer + nut down on the spacer, then loctite the protruding end of the stud. Is this what you mean ?

Neat trick with the nuts ! I have been using pliers (!) and over time certainly damaging the threads. But if I thread on two nuts back to back they will lock, and neither will move. If I hold one and try to turn the other, not sure how this is going to "back out the stud" ? Could you put it another way ?

Thanks

Crashed and Burned

BACKING OUT A STUD:
Place 2 nuts on the stud(back to back)...hold the 2 nuts with 2 spanners(one spanner on each nut) and turn the spanner closest to the engine CCW while STILL holding the other spanner.In essence your putting a small force on one nut to do it up and a greater force on the other nut to undoe it.....which wins out.