Consumer Alert LOL
That schwinn rear rack as seen in the picture on the first page is not rated for anything over 2 pounds, in my opinion
I am so glad I seen this crack in the weld before I rode it in the morning.
Took it off, tossed it on the ground and it broke, go figure that one out
Sort of diggin the backpack thing, just need the morining to come so I can ride and test that out
@FurryOnTheInside That ebike you have. That looks like what is in the US called a scooter, but I see you have peddles on yours.
Is that hard to peddle?
My emo-ped as I like to call it would be classed as a moped if anyone was actually bothered. It has functional pedals and an automatic pedal assist like an e-bike, but it also has a manual throttle handle and a motor of above 250W power.
Delete the pedal cranks and it's a motorscooter or electric motorcycle and licences supposedly apply, or you'd limit to 3mph, the electric wheelchair speed.
I am supposed to not have the twist throttle, apparently. Nobody cares or knows. Silly story, no one seems to mind me riding by.
The extra wide square taper bottom bracket and short pedal cranks appear to be taken straight from standard cheap ICE moped parts. They accept 9/16" pedals.
They are very short so they must be geared very low so that they can be used at all. This means that they can only be used at the start.
It is hard to pedal because of impractical short-arm low-gear design, but at times when the motor is off there is also the issue of magnetic braking when the direct drive (non-geared) hub motor is completely switched off.
I would love an emo-ped with a narrower Q factor so that the crank arms can be longer (without needing to be higher), so that the sprockets can be geared higher, so that I can pedal usefully at higher road speeds, without losing the ability to also aid the trafficlights launch.
I said that rack was trouble.
38mph is the unloaded or max speed on flat? What is the unloaded speed, wheel lifted off the ground?
37.5% of the unloaded speed is an inefficient climb. Spinning at closer to 80% of the unloaded speed is more efficient, and produces less heat. I wonder how close to it you can get.
Reducing your voltage reduces the unloaded speed.
So are you getting a 36v battery for the hills now?
Technical bit ☺
What voltages will your controller take? Does it say KT36/48 on it?
Did it take long to set it up for the voltage you plugged in? Could it be done mid-ride?
Will the controller supply the same amperage current, so 3/4 of the wattage if you run it from a 36v battery on the hill or will it bump up the current? I would presume that current will be the same so you're reducing the motor speed and it's most efficient RPM to something that is closer to what it can sustain on the hill, but you have lower wattage too so climbing the hill is also slower.
You can carry two controllers everywhere and have the lower voltage controller a little higher in amperage to keep up the wattage.. I'm sure it is a valid option..