Outlaw biking in Ontariohttp://www.motoredbikes.com/images/smilies/gear_grin.gif

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by CrazyCabbie, Sep 2, 2010.

  1. CrazyCabbie

    CrazyCabbie New Member

    Just assembled an '80cc' (actually 66cc displacement) 2-stroke engine kit.
    I'm pretty sure it's illegal to have the motor running on anything fitting the definition of a 'public roadway' around these parts...

    I put it on a '10 speed' style Nishiki frame.
    Had to replace the 'ram horn' handlebars with straight ones for the controls, and I had to widen the rear 'trailing arms?' by putting a couple of washers on the motor-sprocket side to allow the chain to clear the frame.
    I found after wrapping a small amount of fibreglass inside the muffler it runs MUCH smoother and quieter. It dosen't feel restricted at all.

    It seems to start and run ok, but after warming up it dies.

    I'm wondering if its a faulty kill switch, air leaks, or ???.
    I'm very busy at least until after labour day, so I've had no chance to buy
    'gasket goo' or tinker with it much. I think I might get a small grinder attachment and make the intake flange hole the same size as the intake tube as well. I haven't had the heads off YET but would be interested in suggestions as to what material I should use for the head gasket.

    Does anyone know how the white wire (or third wire) off of a magneto would work? (the third wire I mean... the blue and black ones power the coil on mine) I measured fluctuating voltages around 12 coming off of it with a digital multimeter, but so far can't get a 12v headlight :Dto light up at all.

  2. skrufryder

    skrufryder Member

    oh yeah you can splice the blue n black ones into the light as long as it dosent draw more than 2or 4 amps or run the white to the positive terminal of the light and the run the negative terminal to a ground
  3. Chris Crew

    Chris Crew Member

    symptom of an air leak is a racing motor
    as the fuel-air mix leans out, the fuel burns hotter/faster

    Check for unrestriced air flow around the motor--I had some fancy shouding on one of mine and it ran fine in cooler weather, but once it hit the 80 degree (f) mark outside, the engine would conk out at idle. I took the shroud off, and it has run fine all summer--and it's been a record hot one.
  4. sideshowbob

    sideshowbob Member

    The magneto voltage (on white wire) varies from 3 to 9 volts depending on rpm sometimes 12 or more. this seems to be a typical problem for motor bicyclers to figure out. I used to build hotrod wiring harness and I have a pretty good understanding of the magic of the dancing electrons so...You have to build a system that has a rectifier and voltage regulator, then use it to charge a small battery pack. this will ensure that your CDI has enough juice to fire the spark plag and uses the extra to charge a battery.I chose a 6 volt system.
  5. CrazyCabbie

    CrazyCabbie New Member

    Thanks for the magneto info bob!
    I put a 12 volt 1/4 screw in type (not sure of the name) bulb in and got a dim glow
    once it powered up! looked like it did on my 6v battery.
    The 4.5 volt one that I have worked ok on battery, it's too late to run it here now though...

    and it was the kill switch, just had to reseat something, but I think I did something to it, it didn't come like that or anything. it's plugged in again and ran good so far.

    it started smoothing out a LOT after getting a few hours on it. much more fun when it's
    not numbing yer hands and ***... the first few hours are pretty rough, lol

    thanks for the info everyone!