I'm not recommending it to you in particular at this time because I have no idea if the piston has enough clearance from the head when you put it back together...It would not fare well for you if that piston is rapping against the head.
Stripped stud
- Thread starter mirman
- Start date
Can I make one out of the cereal box?
Was I not clear here???... I am concerned if the piston is going to hit the head.
Do you own a micrometer so you can measure the exact thickness of a cereal box verses the exact thickness of the existing gaskets that we already know will give you enough clearance???
Do you own a micrometer so you can measure the exact thickness of a cereal box verses the exact thickness of the existing gaskets that we already know will give you enough clearance???
Chances are it won't hit. it won't even be close to hitting. A typical Phantom has a squish gap around 1.6mm (give or take a tenth). I run one gaset and I had to deck my case halves and jug a little bit to make them flat. My squish gap after all of that AND the meteor piston which is a little taller than the stock piston, is .9mm.
That being said, it is always a good idea to measure your individual squish gap to verify that it is safe to run. Otherwise, run at your own risk.
Considering I know of 3 people that run no base gaskets at all on the stock piston without issue, you are more than likely safe with running one. I just won't say to do it without measuring because there is always a chance something is off, changed, etc.
So there would also be no concern then with the intake and exhaust ports lining up differently due to one gasket versus two???
In the case of my V2, none at all. If anything, removing one gasket from mine improved the intake and exhaust port alignment. With both gaskets the piston top dipped below the exhaust port floor at BDC and the skirt stuck into the intake port the width of a finger nail thickness. With one gasket and the meteor piston in particular the exhaust port floor and piston top are perfectly even and the skirt is clear of the intake port as well.
It will every so slightly affect the port timing a couple of degrees, but the piston still leaves the upper transfers fully exposed, so it will not block flow on any of the ports. I used that as an excuse to remove a tiny bit of material from the top of the exhaust port so I could reshape it to be a little more rounded.
And thats the fly in the ointment...Mine with the two gaskets is in absolute alignment...So i'm guessing then that as usual, everything coming from China is prone to variances, especially since I did no decking, porting, etc. whatsoever on mine...didn't need to....I just wouldn't trust what I can't see in action.
Which is why I tell people to always measure to be sure.
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Put the one gasket and jug on, rotate the crank and piston through the stroke and watch inside the intake and exhaust ports. If the piston clears at BDC and TDC you're good to go.
Thats also a reason why I'm concerned about him making a gasket out of a cereal box as I have zero idea if he has things like a micrometer at his disposal or skill levels.
