this top end got skills !

[HeadSmess]

i posted the first pic about a hone, thats my fault...sorry. it wasnt meant to get to this...

noone even got the joke...a fairly cute chick playing with engines... cmon! maybe i should have gone for the one with her measuring a bore instead...

now its gotten all serious with you guys (one mostly) ranting on about your superior mechanical skills! arrrrgh!


i remain dubious until i see someone cast their own cases, etc and machine their own cranks, etc, and make something that at least resembles this...

it doesnt have to be immaculate, it can be a bit rough...

back to the cylinder upgrade!

 

[Steve Best]

Hey, my small hone is a Sunnen AN111. Go figure.
Function was more important to me than brand name.
Dang Jeff, I've got 40 years of experience with this baby!
Bought it and the large one for $50 way back then. The large one is a Hall and has a patent date of 1925.

Steve

 

[Steve Best]

Steve never been to motorcycle school but had many that worked for me that have and after working for me a while they would say hell you have taught me more then school did and that is not in any manual how did you learn that. I tell them from YEARS of doing it. Now one showed me how to run machines and this was before the internet so I read and taught my self. Steve I still do what you use to do and have been for more years. Good chnace longer the those that have been alive.

The best education is a solid background in theory, backed with 10,000 hours of varied experience.
On the job training will teach the "HOW" but "book learning" theory is needed for the "WHY".
When you know the "why", you can often figure out the "how" with experience, but not so easily the other way around.
On the job training often leaves huge gaps in knowledge, whereas technical training starts at the beginning and runs to the end, limited only by the student's retention. I jumped around in my training and jobs, often not getting the 10,000hrs before moving to another trade or shop, but did always get a solid technical training in each trade. It has been immensely helpful, allowing me to jump trades or take on odd jobs or unique problems with a huge understanding of the underlying principles.

The moral of this story is "Go to school kids!"
There is money in it and guaranteed employment, and a darned interesting life.

I should have posted this in "The Tavern" or http://motoredbikes.com/threads/to-make-a-company-or-not-to-make-a-company.47551/page-3#post-411781


Steve

 

[Frankfort MB's]

That boy is bound to build a 600$ MB with someone else's money lol
And then sell it for 1000$???? I think he is crazy!!!
If he reads this, oh well. There is no market out there for someone with no experience to sell something like a 1000$ death trap

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Yes i have been driving around on that install, and except the noise (too hard), it was really great and powerful with a 50t sprocket(i am living in the hills). strangely in spite of the fact that my timings is a little upper than those of the manufacturer for the SPORT cylinder(190 °/126 °/124 °) my bike works very good even in lower rpm's.
On the other hand I increased the squish because I do not use any hi octane race gasoline.

konix,

I have discovered that the clutches on these China engines are really strong. It may be neccesary to increase the preset tension (the spring inside) on the clutch mechanism and it may be neccesary to hold the clutch handle all the way in manually when pedaling around, but the clutch really holds up well. I put a big 22mm Keihin carb on my engine(with no reed) and all I would have to do is pull the clutch in a little and revv it up high. Man that bike would take off from a very slow speed to top speed in a few seconds. Letting that clutch slip like that with the engine racing for many months showed no signs of wear (using the red stone clutch pads). It made impressive acceleration using the clutch like that. Only perhaps the metal cogs from the main shaft to the clutch may wear out fast. Metal to metal with no oil lubricant. I baked the Techline racing coating(dry lubricant) onto the teeth of both of those gears to help deal with that problem.
I wish I had known about this cylinder kit back in January when I started working on dremeling a stock cylinder up to par. I spent a month or so working on it and now I still have to remove 1.5mm from the cylinder deck so the piston can get close enough to the squish band.
I will get one of these cylinder kits for my next build! Thank You for the share Konix!

Paul

 

[konix shiwa]

I have discovered that the clutches on these China engines are really strong. It may be neccesary to increase the preset tension (the spring inside) on the clutch mechanism and it may be neccesary to hold the clutch handle all the way in manually when pedaling around, but the clutch really holds up well. I put a big 22mm Keihin carb on my engine(with no reed) and all I would have to do is pull the clutch in a little and revv it up high. Man that bike would take off from a very slow speed to top speed in a few seconds. Letting that clutch slip like that with the engine racing for many months showed no signs of wear (using the red stone clutch pads). It made impressive acceleration using the clutch like that. Only perhaps the metal cogs from the main shaft to the clutch may wear out fast. Metal to metal with no oil lubricant. I baked the Techline racing coating(dry lubricant) onto the teeth of both of those gears to help deal with that problem.
I wish I had known about this cylinder kit back in January when I started working on dremeling a stock cylinder up to par. I spent a month or so working on it and now I still have to remove 1.5mm from the cylinder deck so the piston can get close enough to the squish band.
I will get one of these cylinder kits for my next build! Thank You for the share Konix!

Paul

you are welcom, In fact the big problem I have is brakes, to stop my bike I need better brakes, my front cable disc brake is not rather powerful, lol.
I should upgrade to hydraulic disc one...
As Steve said , if you want a maximum of reliability and if you run a lot of miles daily, I recommend cast iron cylinders less expensive, available in 50 and 70 cc.
konix,

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

you are welcom, In fact the big problem I have is brakes, to stop my bike I need better brakes, my front cable disc brake is not rather powerful, lol.
I should upgrade to hydraulic disc one...
As Steve said , if you want a maximum of reliability and if you run a lot of miles daily, I recommend cast iron cylinders less expensive, available in 50 and 70 cc.
konix,

So if I understand you correctly, there are other cylinders, made of cast iron that have the same size specifications of this cylinder? I would just have to find the 70cc cast iron cylinder kit for those model of scooters listed. That's a great idea to save money! Also I would not have to order it and wait because I am sure I can find the cast iron cylinder for those models here in Russia. Actually though, when it will wear out, I want to make a cylinder insert sleeve made from speed steel / instrumental steel and temper it while pressed onto a solid piece of steel so that it does not lose it's form when dousing it. I've heard that such cylinders are indestructable and even when the bearings fly about the cylinder, only the piston suffers, but the cylinder will not even be scratched since the metal is harder than the bearing rollers. Only a shiny spot appears on the cylinder wall.
I'm using the largest disc available for brakes, the 203mm and cable control on the front and I am fine. I still have cantilever breaks in the rear, but I try not to use my rear brakes if I don't have to. I had lost a part to them and even drove around with front brakes only for a while. And I drive like I'm in a race all the time. I've heard the 203mm is better than the 180mm disc in terms of stopping power. I've even seen some setups with dual front disc brakes. I just have to keep the front brake on my bike properly tuned to give me the maximum stopping power. I tighten the calipers up so that they are as close as possible to the disc. Then I get alot more stopping power. If compared to when the pads are worn and/or the cable has stretched, a freshly tightened cable works alot better. I'm afraid of hydraulics to be honest. It's not only expensive, but I would have nightmares of a leak and sudden loss of breaking power. But hey, there is always risk, like getting a flat tire while going 70 km/h. That's no fun at all, but manageable =-)

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the lower end after I finished dremeling and machining this to perfection. But it should give you the general idea. Basically I'm a beginning welder without the opportunity to get as much practice as I would like due to access problems. I welded this up in a rush because there was no time left. By adding aluminum to the outside of the transfer areas I was able to make a much wider mating surface for the cylinder bottom. I think it will come in handy for this cylinder kit.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Also I added some mating surface area to the stock China engine cylinder so that I could widen the passages to the max for maximum flow area. I left about 1 mm thickness of the walls in places. Since I needed to remove 5 mm from the bottom of the cylinder using a lathe (because I use an 80mm Yamaha Jog conrod), it made a perfectly even mating surface where rough welds had been. I filled the empty spaces with jbweld.

 

[konix shiwa]

So if I understand you correctly, there are other cylinders, made of cast iron that have the same size specifications of this cylinder? I would just have to find the 70cc cast iron cylinder kit for those model of scooters listed. That's a great idea to save money! Also I would not have to order it and wait because I am sure I can find the cast iron cylinder for those models here in Russia. Actually though, when it will wear out, I want to make a cylinder insert sleeve made from speed steel / instrumental steel and temper it while pressed onto a solid piece of steel so that it does not lose it's form when dousing it. I've heard that such cylinders are indestructable and even when the bearings fly about the cylinder, only the piston suffers, but the cylinder will not even be scratched since the metal is harder than the bearing rollers. Only a shiny spot appears on the cylinder wall.
I'm using the largest disc available for brakes, the 203mm and cable control on the front and I am fine. I still have cantilever breaks in the rear, but I try not to use my rear brakes if I don't have to. I had lost a part to them and even drove around with front brakes only for a while. And I drive like I'm in a race all the time. I've heard the 203mm is better than the 180mm disc in terms of stopping power. I've even seen some setups with dual front disc brakes. I just have to keep the front brake on my bike properly tuned to give me the maximum stopping power. I tighten the calipers up so that they are as close as possible to the disc. Then I get alot more stopping power. If compared to when the pads are worn and/or the cable has stretched, a freshly tightened cable works alot better. I'm afraid of hydraulics to be honest. It's not only expensive, but I would have nightmares of a leak and sudden loss of breaking power. But hey, there is always risk, like getting a flat tire while going 70 km/h. That's no fun at all, but manageable =-)

Hello, cast iron cylinders are solid but not indestructible, I have already seen very damaged one, lol.
yes i think you will find easily this type of scooters's top end in Russia :

http://www.maxiscoot.com/cylindre-c...nte-mbk-booster-mf26-16847.html?category=2353

PS : don't forget, you will need an aluminium plate to link the scooter's cylinder on the crankcase of the 66cc china girl, the futur is CSH power (China/Scooter Hybrid) lol
konix,