Using Cordless Batteries For Their MB?

5-7HEAVEN

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FYI, I'm eliminating the pull start on my 212cc engine, and installing an electric start.

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I'm looking for a moped/motorcycle battery to crank up my engine. Unsure how many amp-hours.

Hey!!!
Use what I have on hand!
Milwaukee M18 Li Ion cordless batteries.

I'm glad they have many DIY adaptors on Ebay, specifically for the M18 battery.

I'm presuming there will be a 2-wire pigtail that I can correct directly to the electric starting system.

Anyone using cordless drill batteries to power their starter, or maybe their lighting system?
 
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If I'm lucky, the charging coil in this system will energize the M18 battery, while it's on my mb. If not, I just need to unplug it and charge it at home.

Or if I want, I can install a shiny aluminum racing flywheel and not worry about charging on the bike.
 
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FYI, I'm eliminating the pull start on my 212cc engine, and installing an electric start.

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I'm looking for a moped/motorcycle battery to crank up my engine. Unsure how many amp-hours.

Hey!!!
Use what I have on hand!
Milwaukee M18 Li On cordless batteries.

I'm glad they have many DIY adaptors on Ebay, specifically for the M18 battery.

I'm presuming there will be a 2-wire pigtail that I can correct directly to the electric starting system.

Anyone using cordless drill batteries to power their starter, or maybe their lighting system?
A small engine starter 150cc uses a 12v 7ah battery
 
you can use a m18 battery with a starter, BUT you would be putting 20v into a common 12v system. so it could work. just it would risk burning out quicker
 
you can use a m18 battery with a starter, BUT you would be putting 20v into a common 12v system. so it could work. just it would risk burning out quicker

You're rght, mark20.
I was thinking about that.

However, there are resistors to reduce voltage to 12v.

I think I need a 2.5 ohm/84-watt resistor wired to the solenoid.

The 18v from the M18 battery should drop to 12v there.

Then wire the 12v from the solenoid to headlight/tail light.
 
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I use 18650 rechargeable batteries. They are available in different Ah. You can get trays that hold them with pigtails. 4 of them together give 16 volts. The more 4 packs you wire together the longer they last. I used 3 4 packs and would get about 6 and a 1/2hours of use before recharging. That was powering a motorcycle headlight,signals,tail and brake light. All LED lights. I have an assortment of Dewalt 20v cordless batteries and they are just 5 18650 batteries connected in the case. I suspect the Milwaukee batteries are similar.
 
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I really want you to try that.

Yes, me too.

This idea changed my first plan of eliminating the pull start.

Originally, I intended to keep the starter cup, which bolts onto the flywheel.
Then I'd have a rope on the bike, to pull start the bike.

My plan was to make a "top hat" plate, to cover the big hole caused by removing the pull start.
The plate was to have a 3" 'cap". Removing the 'cap' would permit me to wrap the rope around the starter cup and pull start the engine.

In the middle of the 'cap' would've been a 1" hole.
This would allow me to leave the 'cap' on, stick a socket and extension in the 1" hole.
Then I'd spin the flywheel nut with a cordless drill.

So I could pull start with a rope or use a cordless drill.

When the idea of electric start popped up, I decided not to use the starter cup and rope.

Instead, I'll fab a 1/4" x 7" plexiglass plate.
This will cover the big hole, caused by removing the pull start housing.

A 1" hole in the center of the plexiglass allows me to jump start with a socket and cordless drill.

Or use electric start.

The clear plexiglass is to showcase the shiny flywheel, while it's spinning.:)

When I'm done, I'll do a Youtube video of starting the engine with a Milwaukee M18 cordless drill.

Then removing the M18 battery from the drill, plugging it onto the bike and electric starting the engine.:)
 
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