Villiers attachment on 1950s Phillips

[Sianelle]

Annie (Sianelle), I'm glad to hear that you're health is improving, and I hope it continues to do so. Knowing your mechanical expertise, I have no doubt you'll find the components to make a motor wheel. By the way, how is the All-Electric Hercules running?

The All-Electric-Hercules is running wonderfully well and has been a thoroughly reliable means of transport for me. The hubmotor kit has had considerable use and has always been completely reliable. For local use an e.bike can't be beat in my opinion, but out here in the country with longer distances between towns I'm going to need a motored bicycle if I want to venture further afield.
I know they're strange devices, but I think I'm going to have a lot of fun building motor wheels As a self contained (and self propelled) engineering exercise they are quite a unique challenge, possibly even an artform in their own right......

 

[Sianelle]

The motorwheel I intend to copy/base my design on is the 'Wall' which suits my English bicycles nicely. The Wall used a spoked wheel and a chain drive and is also arranged for riding on the LHS of the road like we do here in New Zealand.
Links to Wall pictures follow (Um.... I just remembered that I shouldn't be using image tags ).

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/Sianelleofavelorn/3400.jpg?t=1208258297

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/Sianelleofavelorn/d1WallAutowheel.jpg?t=1208258483

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/Sianelleofavelorn/4400.jpg?t=1208258639

 

[BSA]

Like a cyclemaster trike. Very neat.

 

[Sianelle]

The Wall Autowheel is the ancestor of the Smiths and B&S motorwheel, but is much more softly tuned and with its simple chain driven direct drive transmission reputed to be a lot easier to start!
I particularly like the Wall's cycle tubing frame as well as the spoked wheel which gives the autowheel a much more vintage appearance which suits English Edwardian bicycles very well indeed. The engine itself is mounted very low and I do like that as a design point as it keeps the centre of gravity well under the axle.
Unfortunately I don't have a nice old soft tuned auto inlet valve 4 stroke engine to use for my own motorwheel, but I do have a pre-war slope finned Villiers 2 stroke engine of around 98cc capacity which has a big flywheel and is softly tuned. I'd much rather have a slow reving long stroke vintage engine with a big flywheel any day than a miniature 'buzzbomb' slung beside me or beneath me.

 

[antique-rider]

I'd much rather have a slow reving long stroke vintage engine with a big flywheel any day than a miniature 'buzzbomb' slung beside me or beneath me.

Sianelle, you took the words right out of my mouth!! The motor wheel project sounds like fun, easier than trying to put it in the frame, figure out a clutch, etc etc etc.

....Bob

 

[Sianelle]

Sianelle, you took the words right out of my mouth!! The motor wheel project sounds like fun, easier than trying to put it in the frame, figure out a clutch, etc etc etc.

....Bob

I'm of the firm opinion that keeping it simple is the best option Bob. I like to spend time looking at bicycle related patents from the pre-1914 to the 1890s period because pretty much everything we call 'modern' had been thought of during that highly inventive slice of time. AND what's more they kept it all nice and simple and without all the gee-gaws which I absolutely love

 

[Dockspa1]

Confirmed Sianell! The simpler the better in my opinion also. You are the pro when it comes to finding the good ole stuff.
Doc

 

[JemmaUK]

Hi Sianelle,

You are right about the buzzbomb thing - after about 10 miles my head really starts to ache from the engine noise on mine.

I have rigged up a muffler of sorts using the silencer from a motormite cyclemotor and rubber model aircraft exhaust directors which makes a **** of a difference but it has caused a few problems..

The worst of these is the acceleration is alot worse although strangely the top end is a little better and the engine /exhaust runs horribly hot - which makes me think it might be damaging the engine.

I seem to remember you mentioning something about long skirts... I havent tried that on mine so far but I remember seeing rear wheel guards that attach to the fenders to stop catches from such clothing. The drive problem could be solved with a fully enclosed drive and engine covers (which occasionally come up on ebay)

hope you are well

Jemma xx

 

[Sianelle]

Hi Jemma

I find long skirts really comfortable to cycle in, but it's also true that your bike has to be well setup so they don't catch in everything. Almost all of my old English roadster bicycles have excellent chainguards, mudguards & etc which makes life a lot easier for me. Skirt guards for the rear wheels are hard to find, but my old unrestored 1942 Dutch ladies bicycle still has its original skirt guards which I can use for a pattern which will be a big help. One of my very tatty pre-war ladies roadster bicycles has its rear mudguard punched with rows of small holes along each edge to allow for lacing cords to act as a skirt guard. This was quite common at one time and I've seen adverts in ancient trade catalogues for the actual punch tool to make the holes.

Um..... I think your exhaust system might be too restrictive now Jemma which is why your engine is getting hot. The increase in power at the top end is most probably due to the pulse wave in the exhaust system managing to co-ordinate itself with the port timing at those revs to give an extractor effect and thereby overcoming the restriction to a degree.

 

[Egor]

Sianelle, good to see you back, prayers for feeling better. I did the cancer thing last year, I just got cleared by my doctor the other day, so that was an interesting year, thank you. I wish we had more of the English stuff that made it here, some of the motorcycles but not much else. I have a line on a another British Seagull, fun but hard to fit to a bike, LOL. Keep us posted on the tip I like to hear what you find. Have fun, Dave