Water cooled head!

[FNTPuck]

I was thinking about elec water pumps, something like those used on PC's and wrapping the jug with copper tubing between fins. this would be really cool even if just for the bling. I always liked Treatland but never bought from them.

they say the bolt hole pattern is 44 x 44mm. I don't have a 66cc to measure. People have used Puch heads on 49cc I've read on the other forum, with elongating the holes a little. a 48-49cc is 41 x 41 and ~58.4 diagonally.
maybe it's bolt-on for 66cc with 6mm studs??

PC pumps wouldn't work, the temps are too high. The internals are usually only good to about 60c coolant temps max which is only 140f and our heads are ~350+f. A small external racing waterpump would work though.

 

[CrazyDan]

Think I might have mispoke with the puch cylinder, its been the puch head thats been done before. Just not the watercooled one. You might be able to fill in the old case holes and drill new ones with a spacer to get a puch cylinder on just like they are doing with the chainsaw cylinders.

 

[JerboaJohn]

I heard from Chris Snidjer at puchshop.de He was vague but he took couple pics that I can get some info from. the outer wall enclosing the water jacket isn't paper thin; it looks to be 3mm. the fitting has a bolt that anchors the fitting thru the water into the inner wall. water jacket looks to be ~15mm. The boss for the fitting anchor bolt extends at least 6mm into an inner chamber, and has most likely 3mm material surrounding it (I can almost measure that too).
follow me here, but you know the outcome already) - since all water containing walls appear to be 3mm, I assume it's highly likely that 3 mm material also surrounds the head studs, since it would simplify design.
this leaves only .5mm room for error = the thickness surrounding the head bolt hole if you bored it .5mm AND offset those holes .5mm exactly, to get the 45mm pattern for CG jugs.
it leaves only a wisp of heavy aluminum foil keeping you from losing boiling coolant up from the head bolts, under pressure and maybe get your legs or crotch haha

so yeah, nobody is successfully mounting this to a CG jug. even I thought I could with extra care lol) but I know you need more than half a mil to hold hot water under pressure
<-- looking up Puch cylinder transplants...

 

[JerboaJohn]

PC pumps wouldn't work, the temps are too high. The internals are usually only good to about 60c coolant temps max which is only 140f and our heads are ~350+f. A small external racing waterpump would work though.

the radiators and fitting hardware, but not a pc pump,, something like a Toyota Prius pump,,

 

[Frogslayer]

Or an inline electric water pump for a race snowmobile or something like that.

 

[The_Aleman]

I remember my first few years with chinagirls in North Dakota Novembers and Decembers, those engine cases wouldn't get warm for a long time on a ride unless one ran a hot plug. A Cali-happy NGK 7 plug would run great, but the engine case wouldn't actually get warm for 10-15 minutes.

Water-cooled PCs make me giggle happily, but I loves me some air-cooled engines. They have that raucousness!
That said, I bet the water-cooled head would be great on an endurance ride. Heat soak is a chinagirl's enemy.

 

[JerboaJohn]

I only encountered heat soak on a long trip in summer. 1 stretch was over an hour above half throttle, noticeable it smelled hot so I shut down and rested 20mins

 

[JerboaJohn]

higher compression is possible if you can run a cooler head. not really needed, esp on winter! ,, but it's slightly better long term I think

 

[Frogslayer]

Yeah about the only scenario the air cooled head might get you into trouble with heat soak would be a really hot day with a tail wind the same speed your driving. Even then just need to run a little richer fuel:air

 

[Spare_Parts]

It gets hot enough here that I slow down. I wouldn't run just because of the additional weight and adding to the list of crap to go wrong. If I had a longer commute than maybe.