Whizzer wont start

Vuit...your stuff is in here too.
I didn't have a hole lot of time, so here's some of the stuff. Wench is looking for half the motor case,don't know if it's the flywheel side or other side.
DieselTech I'll start looking for your stuff too.

RayView attachment 187542View attachment 187542.View attachment 187543View attachment 187544View attachment 187545View attachment 187546View attachment 187547View attachment 187548View attachment 187549View attachment 187550
I just had supper and I'm hungry again already. Thanks for showing off your horde.
 


I could use the LH side of a NE-5 case or the empty case /case only
It had the 6 pole stator and cast iron flywheel

Got one of those, If so whatcha want for it?

LH side that takes a 6 pole stator, cast iron flywheel
 
I just had supper and I'm hungry again already. Thanks for showing off your horde.
Your welcome! A gift is only a gift if it's given back. Vuit hasn't answered back yet, can't let him struggle. Those wc-1's aren't easy to work with, I have the parts he'll need. I'm sure you would do the same.

Ray
 
LH side that takes a 6 pole stator, cast iron flywheel
If you have that side already with the small flywheel, you can call Paul and ask him for the cast iron flywheel for that stator. It has the full ring magnet.
The 6 pole stator flywheel has 6 separate magnets on the inside.

Ray
 
If you have that side already with the small flywheel, you can call Paul and ask him for the cast iron flywheel for that stator. It has the full ring magnet.
The 6 pole stator flywheel has 6 separate magnets on the inside.

Ray
Thanks for your advice Ray your right on point (y)

Yes I've thought of it before, but when I measured the flywheels and stators I stopped because I knew I would have to relocate the P/U

Small OD Flywheel and 8 pole stator
FW ID = 90mm
8 pole stator OD = 88mm

Cast Iron Flywheel and 6 pole ststor
FW ID = 85mm
6 pole ststor OD = 83.5mm


The mounting hole spacing is the same for the 8 pole and the 6 pole stator So I can switch those
But the P/Us are mounted in a different spot

To be able to switch flywheels
1) I can use a 6 pole stator
2) Move the P/U 20mm out est, drill and tap new holes to mount that
3) Then I can use the cast iron flywheel

I guess this is what I'll do, just kinda wanted the other case halve because I'm a parts Hoarder like you:ROFLMAO:
I can just switch flywheels if I ever want to switch engines because I just have one bike (y)

Pic of the 6 pole mounted on the new style case and where I gotta move the P/U 20mm out est.
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While I like the extra electrical power generated by the 8 pole stator using the 6 pole instead is a small trade off because,
I like the cast Iron FW better because IMO it makes more torque
 
Thanks for your advice Ray your right on point (y)

Yes I've thought of it before, but when I measured the flywheels and stators I stopped because I knew I would have to trelocate the P/U trigger

Small Flywheel and 8 pole stator
FW ID = 90mm
8 pole stator OD = 88mm

Cast Iron Flywheel and 6 pole ststor
FW ID = 85mm
6 pole ststor OD = 83.5mm


The mounting hole spacing is the same for the 8 pole and the 6 pole stator So I can switch those
But the P/U triggers are mounted in a different spot

To be able to switch flywheels
1) I can use a 6 pole stator
2) Move the P/U trigger and drill and tap new holes to mount that
3) Then I can use the cast iron flywheel

I guess this is what I'll do, just kinda wanted the other case halve because I'm a parts Hoarder like you:ROFLMAO:


Pic of the 6 pole mounted on the new style case and where I gotta move the P/U trigger 20mm out
View attachment 187572View attachment 187573View attachment 187574View attachment 187575
Ok Wrench I'm looking at this, does the pickup sit on the outside of flywheel or inside? Where your Phillip's screwdriver is pointed, is that where your new holes will be drilled & tapped if the pickup is moved 20mm. Thanks. Trying to learn all I can.
 
Thanks for your advice Ray your right on point (y)

Yes I've thought of it before, but when I measured the flywheels and stators I stopped because I knew I would have to trelocate the P/U trigger

Small Flywheel and 8 pole stator
FW ID = 90mm
8 pole stator OD = 88mm

Cast Iron Flywheel and 6 pole ststor
FW ID = 85mm
6 pole ststor OD = 83.5mm


The mounting hole spacing is the same for the 8 pole and the 6 pole stator So I can switch those
But the P/U triggers are mounted in a different spot

To be able to switch flywheels
1) I can use a 6 pole stator
2) Move the P/U trigger 20mm out, drill and tap new holes to mount that
3) Then I can use the cast iron flywheel

I guess this is what I'll do, just kinda wanted the other case halve because I'm a parts Hoarder like you:ROFLMAO:
I can just switch flywheels if I ever want to switch engines because I just have one bike (y)

Pic of the 6 pole mounted on the new style case and where I gotta move the P/U trigger 20mm out
View attachment 187572View attachment 187573View attachment 187574View attachment 187575
Being just a pickup, cant you build a lil adapter to move it out 20mm instead of the drilling case. That pickup should not care if its moved in or out on the flywheel itself. Yes I understand drilling the case is best possible solution.
 
Ok Wrench I'm looking at this, does the pickup sit on the outside of flywheel or inside? Where your Phillip's screwdriver is pointed, is that where your new holes will be drilled & tapped if the pickup is moved 20mm. Thanks. Trying to learn all I can.
look at the 2nd pic it sits outside the FW
Yep 4th pic is pointing a new hole locations
Being just a pickup, cant you build a lil adapter to move it out 20mm instead of the drilling case. That pickup should not care if its moved in or out on the flywheel itself. Yes I understand drilling the case is best possible solution.
20 mm is as far back as it will go and looks right
But I still will check with a feeler gauge to match the original.

OK now that I check I need a .032" gap between the P/U and the P/U trigger
So 20mm is really close, But before drilling the mount holes I'll make sure I got a .032" gap between the P/U and the P/U trigger

Sure an adjustable adapter bracket could be made, but I'll just tap some blind holes
 
Being just a pickup, cant you build a lil adapter to move it out 20mm instead of the drilling case. That pickup should not care if its moved in or out on the flywheel itself. Yes I understand drilling the case is best possible solution.
I just check the P/U to P/U trigger plate tolerances again .015" - .032" anywhere in between is good

Engine with cast iron FW measured .032"
Engine with small FW measured .015"

I guess as long as it don't touch it's good, :LOL: but ya don't wanna get too close or too far away
 
look at the 2nd pic it sits outside the FW
Yep 4th pic is pointing a new hole locations

20 mm is as far back as it will go and looks right
But I still will check with a feeler gauge to match the original.

OK now that I check I need a .032" gap between the P/U and the P/U trigger
So 20mm is really close, But before drilling the mount holes I'll make sure I got a .032" gap between the P/U and the P/U trigger

Sure an adjustable adapter bracket could be made, but I'll just tap some blind holes
If you get the holes really close, then you can elongate the hole in the P/U a bit to give some adjustability.
 
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