Wrong welder plugin?

That 180amps on the Lincoln is on the output, not the input. It will likely be fine on a dryer plug, you just need an adapter as I think the MIG takes less current than the dryer. If built for 220v it will not likely run on 110v although some were built to run on either voltage but their pricetag is in the $2000 range.
 
That 180amps on the Lincoln is on the output, not the input. It will likely be fine on a dryer plug, you just need an adapter as I think the MIG takes less current than the dryer. If built for 220v it will not likely run on 110v although some were built to run on either voltage but their pricetag is in the $2000 range.
H/F?
 
That 180amps on the Lincoln is on the output, not the input. It will likely be fine on a dryer plug, you just need an adapter as I think the MIG takes less current than the dryer. If built for 220v it will not likely run on 110v although some were built to run on either voltage but their pricetag is in the $2000 range.


How's those sticks work on steel bike tubes. Got a few pieces that I'm going to weld together to fit my Briggs back on
 
And the right rod , 7014 instead of 6013, it is a contact rod. Good clean metal hold it against the joint and fallow, may need a little more heat .....Curt
 
Wrap sandpaper around the tube to be welded to and rub the part against it so you'll have a good joint to weld, you're dealing with bicycle tube so you want to keep the arc moving fast enough you won't blow a hole, the easiest way to do that is just to have a good mating surface to begin with.
 
Wrap sandpaper around the tube to be welded to and rub the part against it so you'll have a good joint to weld, you're dealing with bicycle tube so you want to keep the arc moving fast enough you won't blow a hole, the easiest way to do that is just to have a good mating surface to begin with.

Yes for sure! same with mig welding clean the metal, you won't have a weld full of paint or junk, and bubbles...........Curt
 
They work - with practice!
The way I picture it, Remember as a kid how you always had that one friend that use to pee in the snow?


Stick welding like that except your using a post cable and a electrode.

I found a 100 AMP arc welder for 68 and some change new as I hear the thinner the metal the less amperage you need.
 
And the right rod , 7014 instead of 6013, it is a contact rod. Good clean metal hold it against the joint and fallow, may need a little more heat .....Curt

About to give the frame a "stick up"

As for the cracked exhaust I'll save it for the Briggs or the old dead 50cc


Are the 6mm cases thick enough to tack weld an aluminium case thread in? I feel a very low AMP could repair the damaged case if aluminum head gasket bolts are in cars should do lovely that or tack on a washer that's just close enough to touch the threads of a new m6.


The good thing is I still win saving 54 cents on my budget which was suppose to be mapped out for a kit to resell installed on a new rig.

If I can get the 3HP to sit right in the center by using the old rack mount plate, pop the cover off so I can get additional crank clearance, redesign the homemade tensioner built on the frame it will be lovely.

Last I would have to do is shave down the crankshaft and remove the taper from the clutch.


Only would need a longer belt at that point if it works out as planned.
 
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