- Oct 14, 2016
You do know jet sizes will change with: Pipe, intake length, temp, air filter, elevation, commpression. Etc, right?On the oko clones you need to do a few mods to make it run right #1 take your pilot jet out and drill out the hole to around 1.5 mm, the way they come is too small and won't feed your pilot jet fast enough to run the right mix.that's why your motor acts like it's running lean but when you blip the throttle is spitting oil. #2 you need to replace your emus ion tube to a genuine oko tube or drill out 2 more holes in the fake carbs emulsion tube as before, the Chinese replica is missing a set of holes and won't feed your main jet fast enough. #3 on the intake side of the carb you will see a big hole in the middle and if you look inside there is a small hole. The small holes needs to be drilled out to about 1mm. #4 you need to drill out your flat valve seat a little bit not to exceed 1.5 mm as then your flat valve will not seat properly, also need to drill straight through the valve seat as close to the bottom as you can not to exceed more than 2mm up from thebottom of the flat valve seat. There are articles online that will give better instructive advice with pictures and all that. The Chinese replicas look good but the passages are pretty much all too small. Also one more thing if you are still experiencing a bog right after idle to 1/4 throttle you čan either sand down the top of your throttle needle before the taper or buy a genuine oko needle to allow more fuel in. You will never be able to tune these replicas correctly without these mods as the stock passages just won't allow enough fuel to pass through the jets in order to run right. I have done these on my bike and had a100 percent improvement and no more bogging or backfiring. You should need around 40-45ish idle jet and around 90-95 main jet with your needle in the 3Rd position andair screw no more than two turns out.