Clutch Actuator Upgrade- Mui Bueno!

Please don't get me wrong because overall it's a pretty good price for what you're getting visually appealing and looks stronger too but I still like my mod sorry I had to say it! :D
It seems to me the longer clutch arm would mean a longer reach for the reduction happens when it takes a little more cable to engage the clutch.
But again,it's a nice design. Way better than the stock setup.
 
The clutch arm isn't any longer at all.....just remade.
That's not the gimmick or fix to this redesigned clutch actuator.
It's all about the actuator bolt. Jim's redesigned geometry of this is like night and day to stock. It takes one finger to operate, and the transition to power is ultimately smooth and completely controllable. it almost feels like a hydraulic clutch on a motorcycle. This upgrade is now the first purchase for me whenever I build a bike; single gear or multiple.

Best 27 bucks I've ever spent.

'BrettMavriK
 
Please don't get me wrong because overall it's a pretty good price for what you're getting visually appealing and looks stronger too but I still like my mod sorry I had to say it! :D
It seems to me the longer clutch arm would mean a longer reach for the reduction happens when it takes a little more cable to engage the clutch.
But again,it's a nice design. Way better than the stock setup.

Yes Large, i'll toot your horn for ya.:eek: (well you know what I mean) I couldn't pass up your 7.00 mod when you came up with it. Im re-posting the thread for any newbies out there. Your mod is also 1 finger ease. Smoooooth.
I also posted a few pic's out of that thread.
As far as the 10000rpm happytime re-design, cant wait to see it!

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=8729
 

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Hey, that's pretty cool!
Innovative. A little too "erector set" for me, but if it works, it works.
I'm an asthetic kinda' guy. I'm into the smoothest, cleanest lines I can create on my bikes. I'm even going to the lengths of forming chain guards for both sides of the bike that are "free floating" with a bearing like a "spinner rim" on a bling bling DUB ride. I like Jim's kit because it solves the problem internally instead of externally. The billet looks cool too. If I could get a complete billet engine, I'd be in heaven.
I'll be R&D'ing this Jim's motor upgrade on my 3 speed chopper set up and will flog it thoroughly. I know the carb will have to be reworked or replaced and a bigger expansion chamber will have to be designed in CAD. I wonder if a velocity stack or ram air will help. Definitely a boost bottle to smooth the valve overlap will be par for the course. I love these motorized bicycles!!!

Such a great and relatively inexpensive way to have fun, tinker, and create.

'BrettMavriK
 
Just got mine in today,really fast shipping,just wish my motor would get here!

Built better than the kit it's goin on,keep those mods commin, i'll buy them all!
 
We got my mule bike all back together today. I would say the clutch kit works well with the Shifter Kit, but there are some necessary steps:

1) You will need 40 mm bolts for the front two and a 50+ long bolt and a nut for the back hole. It may be ok to use a 40mm bolt for the rear hole as well but the threads in that hole are very weak and I think it's prudent to run the fastener through using a nut and washer. Especially because these hold the left plate.

2) As far as alignment and fit, we did need an extra spacer washer along with the standard one by the 17T sprocket to properly allow for the taller new clutch cover.

3) When we got it all together even with the clutch disengaged the chain would not spin freely. Took some head scratching.....The chain was hitting the very back of the machined new cover and we couldn't adjust it forward to clear. I used a burr tool in the Dremel to hog some aluminum out.

4) You'll probably need to cut the protruding threaded portion of the upper (left) u-bolt. Mine hit the longer clutch arm.

5) The instructions are thorough - a little clunky (Jim is not claiming to be Shakespeare), but dang it thoroughly gets the point across for the most part. It's best to do the install starting with the clutch over off so you can see what is going on. I needed to grind the shortest pin and I would say that if you need to use the screws (bolts) to pull the new cover in at all, then the pin is too long. Just touching....but not actuating the clutch is something to keep in mind. Then you can dial it in with the flower nut.

6) Don't use a heavy grease or especially tacky grease on the cam round surfaces. My special clutch gear grease is way to tacky for the cam/housing contact surfaces (tightly machined). Made it quite sticky. Amazingly the freewheel grease made the the cam turn perfectly. Tacky grease is fine on the eccentric and pin.

The feel is very smooth now. Especially with the teflon coated clutch cable. Like hot knife in butter. Pinky easy.
 
17t? The one on my Zone8 engines is a 10t on the counter shaft.......????
It all bolted up with zero issues. That may a precautionary point about the one bolt going all the way through and a nut on the backside. I'll run mine as is, and keep a longer bolt with a nut and washer handy if it ever pulls through on the case threads.
-Anyone ever had this happen?

'BrettMavriK


We got my mule bike all back together today. I would say the clutch kit works well with the Shifter Kit, but there are some necessary steps:

1) You will need 40 mm bolts for the front two and a 50+ long bolt and a nut for the back hole. It may be ok to use a 40mm bolt for the rear hole as well but the threads in that hole are very weak and I think it's prudent to run the fastener through using a nut and washer. Especially because these hold the left plate.

2) As far as alignment and fit, we did need an extra spacer washer along with the standard one by the 17T sprocket to properly allow for the taller new clutch cover.

3) When we got it all together even with the clutch disengaged the chain would not spin freely. Took some head scratching.....The chain was hitting the very back of the machined new cover and we couldn't adjust it forward to clear. I used a burr tool in the Dremel to hog some aluminum out.

4) You'll probably need to cut the protruding threaded portion of the upper (left) u-bolt. Mine hit the longer clutch arm.

5) The instructions are thorough - a little clunky (Jim is not claiming to be Shakespeare), but dang it thoroughly gets the point across for the most part. It's best to do the install starting with the clutch over off so you can see what is going on. I needed to grind the shortest pin and I would say that if you need to use the screws (bolts) to pull the new cover in at all, then the pin is too long. Just touching....but not actuating the clutch is something to keep in mind. Then you can dial it in with the flower nut.

6) Don't use a heavy grease or especially tacky grease on the cam round surfaces. My special clutch gear grease is way to tacky for the cam/housing contact surfaces (tightly machined). Made it quite sticky. Amazingly the freewheel grease made the the cam turn perfectly. Tacky grease is fine on the eccentric and pin.

The feel is very smooth now. Especially with the teflon coated clutch cable. Like hot knife in butter. Pinky easy.
 
17t? The one on my Zone8 engines is a 10t on the counter shaft.......????
It all bolted up with zero issues. That may a precautionary point about the one bolt going all the way through and a nut on the backside. I'll run mine as is, and keep a longer bolt with a nut and washer handy if it ever pulls through on the case threads.
-Anyone ever had this happen?

'BrettMavriK

I'm talking about installing the clutch kit with the shifter kit. See step 6-12: http://sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/SBP%20Manual004%20Rev%20A.pdf

And yes with the thickness of the left plate, AND the taller clutch actuator housing the longer bolts are necessary. The nut is extra security.

I'll post some pictures of the set-up this evening, including the area I needed to machine.

All in all - I like the clutch kit. Especially with a teflon coated cable...it's baby pinky easy actuation. The reason for my post is for folks with a shifter kit and the few extra (easy) steps.
 
Did your clutch actuator kit come with socket head bolts as mine did?
Just making sure.

'BrettMavriK


I'm talking about installing the clutch kit with the shifter kit. See step 6-12: http://sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/SBP%20Manual004%20Rev%20A.pdf

And yes with the thickness of the left plate, AND the taller clutch actuator housing the longer bolts are necessary. The nut is extra security.

I'll post some pictures of the set-up this evening, including the area I needed to machine.

All in all - I like the clutch kit. Especially with a teflon coated cable...it's baby pinky easy actuation. The reason for my post is for folks with a shifter kit and the few extra (easy) steps.
 
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