First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer
Primered%201_zps7iao2nnj.jpg


Base coat
Base%20Coat%201_zpsi7xkmiwe.jpg


Base Coat w/ Indian Script
Base%20Coat%20with%20Script%201_zpskjxv5nwh.jpg


First coat of clear
First%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpsoh4frllz.jpg


Second coat of clear
Second%20Clear%20Coat%201_zps0edut7ka.jpg


Third and final coat of clear
Final%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpscgsj02db.jpg


For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.
 
Ahh ok....i need to read up on part numbers for ngk plugs.. Didnt recognize the number as iridium..lol

I maybe wouldve just used the stock plug for break in...i know that plugs probably not cheap ...lol

Id get another one though for after the break in.
 
minimum of 3 full tanks but i may go 4 or 5 myself then when its time to tune slap in a new plug as well.
You do realize that even running rich during break in your going to get around 60 miles per tank and in the amount of running time it takes to get through 180 miles your engine is well broken in before that it's like 9 hours of run time and the engine wearing in the whole time.
 
Got it from amazon for i think it was 9 bucks.

Its the ngk irridium version of the b8hs also known as 5510. This is a br8hix or 7001.
 
You do realize that even running rich during break in your going to get around 60 miles per tank and in the amount of running time it takes to get through 180 miles your engine is well broken in before that it's like 9 hours of run time and the engine wearing in the whole time.
1 tank is .6 gallons for me. So i figured on 2 tanks which is just over 1 gallon. Might do 2 gallons to be safe which is roughly 4 tanks.
 
Used a formula on how much hp it would take to do 50mph in the 1/8 mile with 275lbs weight...a whopping 4.99hp:eek:o_O:)

I might try one of those plugs.
 
Well im 220 with a 44t sprocket had her up to almost 35 mph but ran out of street. Think shell do 40 top end once broken in and tuned.
 
Considering you are using a reed i can see some top end taken in exchange for quicker acceleration and midrange.. Most all the cylinder reeds will take some top end away...the case reeds will add some bottom but also SOME top end.

I think youll hit over 40 once tuned in right but not much over it.
 
Thats enough for me lol. Im going to keep her around 25 mph but dont want to have to be wide open for that speed.
 
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