White Wire Voltage - 20+ V ??

Ok, I spent 30 mins on my bike with the white wire system. Same circuit as above, diode bridge with 0.1uF polarized capacitor.

Step 1) When the bike is warmed up, it puts out 28V-30V with NO load.

Step 2) I used a 330Ohm load resistor, voltage was fluctuating between 10V-15V. I need to get my oscilloscope on the bike. Simple interpretation is that the output power of the white wire system, on my bicycle, is something like 0.3W-0.7W. Significantly LESS than the 3Ws advertised. However, power output increases over time (See my first post.) Furthermore, output voltage is definitely not 6V!

Conclusion: as the engine breaks in, the electrical power out increases significantly. Hopefully in a hundred miles or so I'll get my 3W of electrical power. In addition, I really to measure the waveform of the voltage (i'll get to it in a few days.) Finally, if anyone has contact with a 2stroke mechanic who knows something about electricals, I'd like to talk to them :)

best
n
 
maybe slightly OT, but i thought you might like to know this...the "performance" 65 i'm running right now seems to have the normal/standard magneto (blue output)...

i hardwired a 6V/3W headlamp from day one, it started blowing bulbs immediately...

i'm up to a 12V/8W and finally it's doing fine...still starts with no hesitation and runs like a true beast (well, a tiny true beast).
 
No, not OT. (1) The goal of this is to power a light source. (2) A 12V/8W bulb has a resistance of ~20Ohm a 6V/3W bulb has a resistance of ~12Ohm. I should be able to reproduce your results with my motor, so you've provided two useful data point.

Would you be willing to plug a circuit of mine onto your bike and tell me if it improves your bulb? Could you compare it against an LED flashlight? :)
 
Generator needs a large rubber wheel over stock cog to turn slower. mine never burns out. Make sure of good ground wires.
 
Martin - You're talking about a dynamo generator that rubs on the wheel? We're talking about power from the magneto. Apples and oranges.
 
Also..

Also..To build proper Vreg. You will need a Zener circuit. Go full wave into a Zener. Use a Cap to smooth the ripple. Main thing is to use a Zener for voltage regulation so you do not over charge any NiCads you may be using to drive the light. Idea here is to limit I or Current so it does not take away from Spark. So.. Remember to put in a I limiter R value to limit current. A zener to Regulate Voltage, and a cap to smooth the ripple.. In Aggregate, what you would like to have it Nicad driving the bulb or bulbs at night. During the day, while riding you have a trickle charge going into the nicads keeping them up for the night ride. You Electronic techs and Electronic Engineers know what I am talking about. I know some of you guys are in here...I can tell..Enjoy the ride..
 
Could you use a white LED for your headlite in place of the 6v bulb? LEDs use very little current.
 
I have a wheel based friction generator on my bike and i connected it to my rear light and my headlignt, the rear light has never blown but the hedight bulb always blows in a matter of minutes. i guess 30mph is too much electricity for it. i now have the white wire on my headlight. but, is there some type of resister that i could get to step down some of the electricity that its generating? tell me if there is please.

jon

How about finding a bigger wheel to replace the wheel on the end of your generator,cause a bigger wheel would turn slower. Were talking maybe 1/8th diameter difference at best.
Or maybe (and this can get real technical) find a way to mount that generator to your rear sprocket? It would most definetly turn slower...that would be so far out as to be actually cool.
 
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