2Stroke clutch always either engaged or disengaged

DJTEVUKAS

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Hello so i'm having some problems, after having to change some parts in my clutch, including clutch pads and etc, the clutch is always disengaged for whatever reason, i've tried adjusting the clutch spring that is inside, wont help, ive tried adjusting the cable also wont help, any more ideas? anything would help, thanks.
 
Hello so i'm having some problems, after having to change some parts in my clutch, including clutch pads and etc, the clutch is always disengaged for whatever reason, i've tried adjusting the clutch spring that is inside, wont help, ive tried adjusting the cable also wont help, any more ideas? anything would help, thanks.
I have copied and pasted these instructions on how to properly adjust the clutch from another posting I made on this subject in the past.

For the sake of argument, I'm listing the complete and correct clutch adjustment proceedure here for you to check it out right from the very beginning.

First thing to do is replace the crappy red clay like clutch pads that most of these kits, including the Phantom 85 come with, the red clay looking one burn up and crap out quite quickly...Here is a link for enough pads that work quite well for very cheap money from Amazon.
For around 10 bucks, there are enough pads for four replacements...I havent had to replace them yet in 3,000 miles as of Jan. 29th, 2024.

https://www.amazon.com/KQTshangmao-...ref=sr_1_10?keywords=80cc+clutch+pads&sr=8-10

Be sure there is a dab of white lithium grease on each end of the bucking bar and just a dab in between the gears under the other clutch cover where the clutch pads are...Just a dab, don't over grease these things.

Following these instructions EXACTLY as written, from A to Z will at least ensure proper adjustment of your clutch system.

First, make sure
(that when you do this, that the alignment of the clutch actuating arm is in the position in pic below), that the clutch lever is in the fully released position so that the clutch pads and pressure plates will then be in the fully ENGAGED postion with a goodly amount of tension resistance felt when you push on the arm and THEN tighten the cable stop into place to hold it just like is shown in pic.

It should look exactly like mine in this picture below with the CLUTCH LEVER in the FULLY RELEASED POSITION.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions below this pic to adjust the flower nut, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that adjusts the clutch plate distance from the clutch pads and located under the cover on the right hand side of the motor...lol.

dscn0322-jpg.184681



When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you now have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place, the clutch pads and pressure plates will now be in the DISENGAGED position.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely...If you forget to put the set screw back, your clutch will back off and start slipping

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position
and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.

This is a pic showing you where the flower nut is located, right in the middle of the large gear that holds the clutch pads as well as the pressure plate together...Be sure that plate is installed the way it is shown in the pic...I have seen people actually put this on backwards before...lol.

image-jpg.188343
 
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I have copy and pasted these instructions on how to properly adjust the clutch from another posting I made on this subject in the past.

For the sake of argument, I'm listing the correct clutch adjustment proceedure here for you to check it out.

First, make sure (that when you do this alignment of the clutch actuating arm is in the position in pic below), that the clutch lever is in the fully released position so that the clutch pads and pressure plates will then be in the fully ENGAGED postion.

It should look exactly like mine in this picture below with the CLUTCH LEVER in the FULLY RELEASED POSITION.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions below this pic to adjust the flower nut, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that adjusts the clutch plate distance from the clutch pads and located under the cover on the right hand side of the motor...lol.




When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you now have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place, the clutch pads and pressure plates will now be in the DISENGAGED position.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely...If you forget to put the set screw back, your clutch will back off and start slipping

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position
and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.

This is a pic showing you where the flower nut is located, right in the middle of the large gear that holds the clutch pads as well as the pressure plate together...Be sure that plate is installed the way it is shown in the pic...I have seen people actually put this on backwards before...lol.
Looks like I have something to do next after work this week lol
 
I've gone and done this, step for step. When it's cold, I have great freedom to lock the clutch lever and roll the bike wherever. When it's warm, I lock the clutch lever and it's still making contact and stalls. It's like the pads are expanding under heat. Thoughts?
 
I've gone and done this, step for step. When it's cold, I have great freedom to lock the clutch lever and roll the bike wherever. When it's warm, I lock the clutch lever and it's still making contact and stalls. It's like the pads are expanding under heat. Thoughts?
It's most likely the little screw on the end of the clutch arm, you can never get them tight enough to keep the cable from slipping. If you manage to get it tight, then you run the risk of stripping the threads on the arm or breaking it. Bin the little screw and get a cable lock.

1709227902977.png
 
When it's warm, I lock the clutch lever and it's still making contact and stalls. It's like the pads are expanding under heat. Thoughts?
When I adjust mine from cold, I expect the heat thing to happen, that is when I take the flower nut and turn it just one notch counterclockwise and then put the retaining stop screw back in place, take it out for another ride and see if the problem is cured, that is just a fine tuning tweak of the clutch is all and quite normal to happen on the P-85s.
 
When I adjust mine from cold, I expect the heat thing to happen, that is when I take the flower nut and turn it just one notch counterclockwise and then put the retaining stop screw back in place, take it out for another ride and see if the problem is cured, that is just a fine tuning tweak of the clutch is all and quite normal to happen on the P-85s.
Right on. I was thinking of getting it good and hot then adjusting it; will do that. Much thanks.
 
It's most likely the little screw on the end of the clutch arm, you can never get them tight enough to keep the cable from slipping. If you manage to get it tight, then you run the risk of stripping the threads on the arm or breaking it. Bin the little screw and get a cable lock.

View attachment 209258
I had considered that. I have tried this; I don't have cable locks though. It's on the grocery list, people recommend them everywhere. Thanks much.
 
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