Engine won't turn over after clutch adjustment *Update 09/05*

[Emcee]

No, no, no...you pedal and keep on pedaling while you let go of the clutch and hit the gas...That is how you do it...You need that pedal action while starting it...NOT stop pedaling and trying to start it.

I always keep pedaling until the motor starts and begins to get going on it's own and warms up ready to go.

I wonder if I somehow damaged the clutch assembly. See I pedal and at the same time I stop peddling, let go of the clutch and hit the gas. I tried the way you're saying and it would sputter if kept peddling. To start it now I have to blip the throttle twice as opposed to just one time.

I'm about to take it for a ride now, I got it started and she went strong for 9 miles to go to this appointment. Hopefully it rides just as good back.

No idea. I was just offering a perspective shift so you didn't get stuck on one thing.

This is interesting. I fixed the chain tensioner it's still having a hard time starting.

I wonder if the magneto needs to be replaced?

I thought it was a carb problem. I took it apart, everything looks good in there.

 

[noah9988]

To start it now I have to blip the throttle twice as opposed to just one time.

That shouldn't have anything to do with chain tightness or clutch issues.

 

[Emcee]

That shouldn't have anything to do with chain tightness or clutch issues.

Why would I have to blip the throttle just to get it going?

I did discover something. I have a photo of how far back I would have the clutch before releasing it to get it going. The second photo is where I have to release it from now.

If I pull the clutch all the way in and release it w/ gas, it won't start. If I release the clutch from the last notch of the clutch lever then it fires right up once I blip the throttle. I keep it on the last notch and when it's ready to fire up I pull the clutch lever back so that notch lever clicks back in and I release it from that point.


Before all these problems happened, I was riding around an hour before and all was well. This all started to happen after adjusting the chain tensioner and after adjusting my clutch. For the adjustment I tightened the flower nut all the way, then loosened it notch by notch until i could move the wheel freely. That's all I did.

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

No, no, no...you pedal and keep on pedaling while you let go of the clutch and hit the gas...That is how you do it...You need that pedal action while starting it...NOT stop pedaling and trying to start it.

I always keep pedaling until the motor starts and begins to get going on it's own and warms up ready to go.

Yeah you wanna pedal all the way until your engine takes over fully. I've looked like a goof pedal assisting my engine going 20mph on a headwind.

If your engine is sputtering when you pedal, then there is nothing but lack of momentum and / or weight on the rear wheel causing the rear wheel to lock up. Keep on pedaling when you start it. If it don't start, it is something else.

 

[Freddy Snottgrass]

Also, if your chain is super tight, it will bind. your chain will have loose spots and tight spots. Adjust your chain where the tight spot is on top and between the engine and rear sprocket.

 

[Chainlube]

Why would I have to blip the throttle just to get it going?

I did discover something. I have a photo of how far back I would have the clutch before releasing it to get it going. The second photo is where I have to release it from now.

If I pull the clutch all the way in and release it w/ gas, it won't start. If I release the clutch from the last notch of the clutch lever then it fires right up once I blip the throttle. I keep it on the last notch and when it's ready to fire up I pull the clutch lever back so that notch lever clicks back in and I release it from that point.


Before all these problems happened, I was riding around an hour before and all was well. This all started to happen after adjusting the chain tensioner and after adjusting my clutch. For the adjustment I tightened the flower nut all the way, then loosened it notch by notch until i could move the wheel freely. That's all I did.

So you ran it for an hour, did you check to see if the head bolts were tight afterward?

 

[Emcee]

So you ran it for an hour, did you check to see if the head bolts were tight afterward?

Yes, they are

 

[weefek]

Why would I have to blip the throttle just to get it going?

Is this your very first carbureted engine?

Sounds to me like you're making an issue out of nothing.

When you give it gas does the clutch slip? When you pull the clutch handle in does it disengage? Then your clutch is fine. It may not be adjusted properly however.

Honestly buy one of the clutch handles with one button, those three click handles are garbage.

 

[Emcee]

Is this your very first carbureted engine?

Sounds to me like you're making an issue out of nothing.

When you give it gas does the clutch slip? When you pull the clutch handle in does it disengage? Then your clutch is fine. It may not be adjusted properly however.

Honestly buy one of the clutch handles with one button, those three click handles are garbage.

Yes it is my first small engine. I have worked on all my cars so I have I would say above average overall knowledge when it comes to let's say comprehending something mechanically new.

When I pull the clutch in, it disengages and vice versa. All I did to it was tighten the flower nut, then loosen it until the wheel moved freely. Now, I took it for a spin after letting it sit. It took me about four tries before it would sputter, then I had to keep blipping the throttle the fifth time to get it running.

I tried different spark plugs to see if that would change anything and it didn't. Before she would start up on the first try no problem.

 

[weefek]

Yes it is my first small engine. I have worked on all my cars so I have I would say above average overall knowledge when it comes to let's say comprehending something mechanically new.

When I pull the clutch in, it disengages and vice versa. All I did to it was tighten the flower nut, then loosen it until the wheel moved freely. Now, I took it for a spin after letting it sit. It took me about four tries before it would sputter, then I had to keep blipping the throttle the fifth time to get it running.

I tried different spark plugs to see if that would change anything and it didn't. Before she would start up on the first try no problem.

Giving a bit of throttle is pretty much key to getting these things to start.

I'm at around 600 miles on mine at this point and it starts a lot easier than it used to. Starts up pretty much immediately to be honest. Because you've outlined your startup procedure here, I'll outline mine. It may differ from other people's but it's what I do and I have no problems with it.

Cold engine. (Air temp). Choke turned on. Start pedalling up to maybe 7 mph or so (nearly as fast as I can on rear gear #3), engage the clutch. Keep pedalling until the engine starts/starts to kick (maybe 2 or 3 seconds). Kill choke and give it some gas. Bam, I'm on my way. At this point, I stop pedalling. Give it another minute or two or three and it's up to 50% throttle with no problems. Another few minutes after that when it's somewhat warmed up I start going more. After about 7 minutes it'll hit 33~ish mph no problem (44t gear so probably around 7200 rpm or so best guess, I don't have an rpm gauge).

What kind of cars have you worked on? I have a lot of automotive experience as well and I'll tell you an old school carbureted engine is A LOT different than a modern day fuel injected one, especially when it comes to tuning etc. Back in the day pumping the gas before you start was just how it was done.