Avenger 85 Log.

Wyvern

Well-Known Member
Local time
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Dec 22, 2023
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Pinellas Fl
Ok, since this is a new engine, I'd figure I'd start this little experience log.

My Avenger went together no problem, proper squish, no additional gaskets, overall casting is average, porting was good enough not to clean up, minor amount of "sparkles" from the rinse.
Magneto coils centered, light grease in the clutch housing.

Overall build quality- acceptable.

Installed on Hyper beach cruiser, stock gearing.
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First start was fairly difficult and a few minutes into riding she was piping hot, but it stayed running.

Second ride same as first, once it started it ran well, but hard to start, slightly lower engine temps than before.

Third ride I swapped out for an NGK BP6HS, lo and behold! it starts up absolutely no problem. Slowly getting into the throttle now after 1 litre of fuel, it takes essentially no pedaling to pull my 300lbs butt up to speed, torque is everywhere. Some 4 stroking at 3/4 throttle.

4th ride, moved needle one click rich to fatten up the mixture, adjusted idle, running very well at this point, took it to about 30mph on a 3 mile stretch, shut off when I saw a cop and started it back up a few minutes later, no problem. At 1/2 gallon at this point, engine smoothing out.

5th ride, running the same.

6th ride, engine staying much cooler, no more 4 stroking at 3/4 throttle. Stopped riding as the bike is unsafe due to one weak disc brake and coasters.

7th ride upgraded to a cnc hub, 36tooth sprocket, rear caliper brake, upgraded chain and tensioner- almost forgot I added the 36T sprocket because it pulls just like my 44T, buttery smooth at 30mph, barely turning any RPMS, engine nice and cool. 3/4 gallon in.

Unfortunately the caliper brake is still inadequate and shredding, so now I have to figure out where to go from here.
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8th Ride, got impatient and rode with bad brakes, didn't want to start till I drained the old fuel out of the bowl (to be expected), running well, idling well, did a couple short WOT blasts to 40 mph, I hit the clutch and the engine idle flared, noticing loss of power, suspecting fuel boiling is leaning the mixture as engine was red hot. Putting on choke did nothing.

Got home and checked gaskets, fastener tightness and engine head torque, all ok

Excellente' now begins the real fun, hopefully just a clogged jet.

9th Ride, adjusted float, rode like before, idle and acceleration is back to normal, weird, ran out of fuel, my legs hurt.

10th Ride, everything is good, coming from my 3HP Phatmoto with no governor, there is no way this is only a 4HP engine, I don't buy the Dynos! Completely lost my brakes in a safe area @40MPH.
 
If the weather was nicer I'd be riding mine too. Right now it is a balmy 13 degrees Fahrenheit over here
 
Look at the 2nd picture, you'll see rubber all over, after a 5 mile ride, half the pad is missing!
Could you still show a pic of exactly how you mounted the caliper adapter to the frame???...If things are not centered exactly and or has even the slightest amount of shifting around when brake is applied, it is a failed assembly problem and needs to be corrected with brake pads also in need of replacement as well.

Pic below is how mine is connected and it does not shift and the caliper is in perfect alignment over the disk rotor..

If you are using the standard cable pull caliper, only one side of the caliper moves whilst pressing and can and will force the alingment issue as it is trying to press the whole thing together against both sides of the rotor.

If you are thinking of upgrading the caliper to the hydraulic cable pull caliper, when brake lever is squeezed, both sides move the brake pads together onto the rotor and is not as prone to displaced alignment issues.

You will see that the caliper adapter is actually mounted over the axle since it has a 2 pronged fork at its end, the Adel clamp holds it steady to the bike fork.

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Could you still show a pic of exactly how you mounted the caliper adapter to the frame???...If things are not centered exactly and or has even the slightest amount of shifting around when brake is applied, it is a failed assembly problem and needs to be corrected with brake pads also in need of replacement as well.

Pic below is how mine is connected and it does not shift and the caliper is in perfect alignment over the disk rotor..

If you are using the standard cable pull caliper, only one side of the caliper moves whilst pressing and can and will force the alingment issue as it is trying to press the whole thing together against both sides of the rotor.

If you are thinking of upgrading the caliper to the hydraulic cable pull caliper, when brake lever is squeezed, both sides move the brake pads together onto the rotor and is not as prone to displaced alignment issues.

You will see that the caliper adapter is actually mounted over the axle since it has a 2 pronged fork at its end, the Adel clamp holds it steady to the bike fork.

View attachment 206103

View attachment 206104
The front caliper has a weldment on the fork from the factory, its centered and adjusted correctly, but I'm going to rough up the pads and scour the rotor, but one disc brake isn't enough past 15mph.

The rear is an old-school single wheel brake caliper with soft grey rubber pads.

Connected to a double pull lever with bias to the front because the vulcrum means the outside (front) cable moves further.
 
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