Board Track Stocker update.

Street Ryderz

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Funny how that works as someone was just asking about the Girvin fork used on this bike and a few days latter the guy brings it in.Had to lace up a new wheel for it (rear) as he wrecked the original I had put on and I still don't know how because it was a wide aluminum double walled hoop with 12 gauge spokes and Strumey Archer coaster with hub adaptor for drive gear.It's hard to find good hoops like that here and not pay an arm and a leg,when I told the guy it was a $200 wheel he thought I was exaggerating.
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Good looking bike. There goes those forks again! As soon as I get them out of my head I see them lol.
 
Spokes need to be tensioned enough to be stretched within their elastic range so they can lengthen and shorten as the load on each spoke increases and decreases when the rim deforms.
12 gauge spokes require more tension than a bicycle rim (or the hub, possibly) can support. 12g spokes are suitable for moped and light motorcycle rims which are much thicker and stronger than bicycle rims.
Bicycle rims would be better laced with butted 13/14g (or even 13/15/14g if you don't require custom lengths) , to build a strong wheel.
 
Spokes need to be tensioned enough to be stretched within their elastic range so they can lengthen and shorten as the load on each spoke increases and decreases when the rim deforms.
12 gauge spokes require more tension than a bicycle rim (or the hub, possibly) can support. 12g spokes are suitable for moped and light motorcycle rims which are much thicker and stronger than bicycle rims.
Bicycle rims would be better laced with butted 13/14g (or even 13/15/14g if you don't require custom lengths) , to build a strong wheel.
I would have to agree with you there! Some folks just want what they want though and that's what I gave him,though this time I refurbished and old wide steel hoop hopefully it will last awhile.while lacing it up it took awhile to get it tensioned up and keep it straight but it's true and runs smoothly for now. Apparently he hit a curb damaging the previous hoop,but no real details were given,he came and picked it up today.
 
I personally don't like those forks,yes they are light and look cool but they have very limited travel,they are high maintenance,those particular ones don't have disc mounts and tbh I don't think I'd want them on those.The drum brake on that bike can fully compress the shock and if you run it tighter you might as well not have suspension,people like alot of stuff though that I wouldn't use and swear by them so really all I know is there not for me LOL.
 
I personally don't like those forks,yes they are light and look cool but they have very limited travel,they are high maintenance,those particular ones don't have disc mounts and tbh I don't think I'd want them on those.The drum brake on that bike can fully compress the shock and if you run it tighter you might as well not have suspension,people like alot of stuff though that I wouldn't use and swear by them so really all I know is there not for me LOL.
Non of those forks have disc caliper mounts. I'm going to stick with triple trees.
 
Keeping with the K.I.S.S. standard: With older bikes from the 1980~90's you can source used forks with a bit of 'give' to them if they're made from CroMoly.

My present HT engined bike has an older Peugeot MTB fork from 1985, which I've re-raked and it's has a nice 3/4" amount of flex on bigger undulations, it also soaks up small sharp bumps enough that it's gentler at 20 mph on rough asphalt roads.

A nice set of high end Titanium forks would be either the Bontrager or IRD's with the beefy alloy lower clamp. They were the precursor to suspension forks back in the late 1980's and they were specifically engineeered to have about 1" of give on really fast, rough trails.
 
Spokes need to be tensioned enough to be stretched within their elastic range so they can lengthen and shorten as the load on each spoke increases and decreases when the rim deforms.
12 gauge spokes require more tension than a bicycle rim (or the hub, possibly) can support. 12g spokes are suitable for moped and light motorcycle rims which are much thicker and stronger than bicycle rims.
Bicycle rims would be better laced with butted 13/14g (or even 13/15/14g if you don't require custom lengths) , to build a strong wheel.

Generally, with 36 hole rims and good spokes, a standard set of quality stainless spokes in 14 ga. are more than adequate, if the rim is made of a decent alloy and the person building the wheel is a professional wheel builder.

Rear wheels, depending on the dish, tend to be weaker which is why building for older 7 speed Shimano freehubs with 10 mm solid track axles replacing the QR axle would be the best strength in a wheel overall.
 
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