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Deleted member 12676
Guest
First off, ignore what people say about them. Other than the motorcycle engineers everybody has been fumbling about blindly.
Go to the source, the patent which gives all the engineering ideas behind the design. I did and found out that seemingly I’m the only person on the planet willing to pay $26 to know the truth about them because what it reveals shows that no one goes by their tests which proved the best way to design them. It turns out that no one knows any of the engineering principles and manufacturers have just made items of convenience and fashion. No wonder most opinions of boost bottles are negative. People don’t know the operating principles under which they are effective. Most of them are badly designed with tubes too long and too skinny. The very first step in designing one is to make sure the cross sectional area of the tubing is equal to 30% of the area of the carb size. (example: area of 14mm carb is 154 sqr mm. 30% of that is 46 sqr mm which is had with a 7.7mm dia tubing which is almost 5/16") From there the length of the tubing and the volume of the bottle determine the RPM at which it is most effective. The bottles are NOT to be sized in relation to the size of the engine other than not letting them be less than 80% the size of the engine. Most common is 2 to 3 times the size of the engine but the only two things important is the tubing diameter and the resonant RPM.
I’ve ordered tubing and connectors to make one for my AX100 Suzuki (street bike) since the systems main function is to improve power at partial throttle at lower RPM, which mostly is the case with trail and street bikes. To read my write-up on the topic go to www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/YEIS.html
Warning: If you do not roll-on the throttle but rather treat it like a light switch then you will only see minor benefit from a boost bottle since it works best during partial throttle when the vacuum/pressure pulses are strong enough to make it fully effective. At full throttle its boost is only about 5%. Do you think you can feel 5% difference in a 2 hp engine? .05 x 2 = .1hp
Go to the source, the patent which gives all the engineering ideas behind the design. I did and found out that seemingly I’m the only person on the planet willing to pay $26 to know the truth about them because what it reveals shows that no one goes by their tests which proved the best way to design them. It turns out that no one knows any of the engineering principles and manufacturers have just made items of convenience and fashion. No wonder most opinions of boost bottles are negative. People don’t know the operating principles under which they are effective. Most of them are badly designed with tubes too long and too skinny. The very first step in designing one is to make sure the cross sectional area of the tubing is equal to 30% of the area of the carb size. (example: area of 14mm carb is 154 sqr mm. 30% of that is 46 sqr mm which is had with a 7.7mm dia tubing which is almost 5/16") From there the length of the tubing and the volume of the bottle determine the RPM at which it is most effective. The bottles are NOT to be sized in relation to the size of the engine other than not letting them be less than 80% the size of the engine. Most common is 2 to 3 times the size of the engine but the only two things important is the tubing diameter and the resonant RPM.
I’ve ordered tubing and connectors to make one for my AX100 Suzuki (street bike) since the systems main function is to improve power at partial throttle at lower RPM, which mostly is the case with trail and street bikes. To read my write-up on the topic go to www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/YEIS.html
Warning: If you do not roll-on the throttle but rather treat it like a light switch then you will only see minor benefit from a boost bottle since it works best during partial throttle when the vacuum/pressure pulses are strong enough to make it fully effective. At full throttle its boost is only about 5%. Do you think you can feel 5% difference in a 2 hp engine? .05 x 2 = .1hp
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