carborator needle

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Ray_ja, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. Ray_ja

    Ray_ja New Member

    My carborator needle does not have a tapered point? Is this right? Should i be concerned? Also, the needle clip was preset in the middle of the needle settings; appears to have two levels above and below. Should i adjust the clip one down; the engine does not run at idle with the clutch dissengaged.

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    The needle should have a taper to it, but not be necessairly pointy at the tip.
    Before you fiddle with the clip position, have you tried to adjust the idle speed screw?
  3. Ray_ja

    Ray_ja New Member

    If is it not tapered, do you advise trying to grind a point similar to the picts that I have seen. I think it may be a 30 degreee angle? what if it is off? Should i get Boy Go Fast to make this right without modifying the needle?
  4. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    I would not grind anything.

    Did you try adjusting the idle screw, as GearNut suggested?

    You can also adjust the idle using the cable adjuster on top of the carb.
  5. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    grinding on the needle will severly affect your air /fuel ratio. grinding some off of the needle will make it run richer, and you may not be able to get it to run right even by adjusting the c-clip (raising / lowering the needle).
    i would not adjust the idle using the cable adjustor on top of the carb because it will shorten your cabl. it COULD shorten the cable enough to allow it to pull the throttle open when you turn the handlebars.
    use the adjusting screw on the carb to adjust the idle.
    if your needle is not tapered (if it is a straight, smooth rod the same size top & bottom) you need a new one. the lower end of the needle should be slightly smaller than the top. it should gradually taper down and the end that goes down into the needle jet should have a blunt point on it.
  6. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    This isn't such a good idea. Use the idle speed adjuster screw, (located on the LHS of the carb body), to set the idle. A couple of mm slack should be left in the throttle cable outer casing adjustment, to allow for handlebar movement, otherwise your idle speed will change as you move the bars from left to right.

    I agree with the others - check your idle screw first. If your slide needle is defective, don't touch it, have BGF replace it. (Lots of BGF horror stories here.)

    ... Steve
  7. Ray_ja

    Ray_ja New Member

    BGF stated that the taper at the end of the slide needle is not necessary! Is this a possibility? I destinctly remember that there was not a tapered point at the very end of the needle; I do not recall if the entire length of the needle varied in diameter.

    On their behalf, I have not had the time to experiment with any adjustments. After I get home from work, I am very bust with parenting, as I have 4 kids. This weekend I will play some more. Thanks. for the info.
  8. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    The point is not tapered, per-se. The whole needle has a slight taper starting just below the clip grooves, going all the way to the bottom point.. The the bottom "point" is actually blunt, squared off.
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    did i not just state the same exact things 4 posts ago?
    here's what your needle should look like (altho this is a generic pic. they all have a similar shape)
    the one on the right is fatter which would allow less fuel past it, for a leaner mixture

  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Last edited: Feb 2, 2010