Chain binding/kinking?

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Apr 9, 2018
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#1
Just when I thought I was going to be able to ride my micargi predator with a china girl the bike skids to a stop as soon as I dump the clutch. The engine did fire but it doesn't have a pipe on because there's not enough clearance for a regular pipe. I opened the cover and saw the chain was up against the metal where the bolt screws in. It happened a second time after I put a different chain on. I'm using a bicycle motorworks chain spring tensioner with the skateboard wheel. I'm thinking I need to get the wheel more centered as the bolt that came with the kit isn't long enough.
 


crassius

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#2
chain is too loose - get a solid tensioner

look for threads on how to file the mounting holes in muffler to turn it away from frame (running without it can kill a motor quickly)
 

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#3
The chain was pretty tight though the spring was on the second hole. I was under the assumption that solid ones were bad because people have said they would go into the spokes. I was thinking of making an exhaust with flexible stainless pipe and attaching an expansion chamber. I would rather do that than spend $75 on the bikeberry one.
 

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#4
The chain was pretty tight though the spring was on the second hole. I was under the assumption that solid ones were bad because people have said they would go into the spokes. I was thinking of making an exhaust with flexible stainless pipe and attaching an expansion chamber. I would rather do that than spend $75 on the bikeberry one.
Look @ how Fuzzyon the inside (Furry) did his own anti-lock up fix or they sell one on SleezBay .12.00$ And as for tension stuff , arch tensioners werk well. MBreble has a couple different sizes. (carry on)
 



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#7

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#8
Look @ how Fuzzyon the inside (Furry) did his own anti-lock up fix or they sell one on SleezBay .12.00$ And as for tension stuff , arch tensioners werk well. MBreble has a couple different sizes. (carry on)
View media item 61320
Arch tensioners or something home made definitely work great. :)
I think the chain has to be without much slack at all before the spring tensioner is added, so that the spring tensioner is only damping out a few rattles and when the spring is defeated by the bump start there isn't much slack anyway. It does not require a lot of spring tension to damp out the rattles and you'll go faster, particularly when you're pedalling, if the spring tensioner isn't overly strong.
Using only a spring tensioner (particularly with no limit of travel!) lets the chain go slack when the bump start inevitably defeats the spring, and all the slack goes to the upper run of chain.
The chain usually needs to be lifted over the chain stay on most bikes anyway, and that is best done by the arch tensioner as it is closer to the ideal position, further back.

The epoxy chain retainer is a good idea anyway (I didn't invent it!) for extra security. You can fill up the space in the cover too. I just used hot melt glue for that because it doesn't get as much heat as the crankcase side.
 
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#9
I just rode the bike for the first time using one of the hard mount tensioners and it went but the engine was revving really high and I'm not sure why I had the same exact problem when the carb was on the mini chopper. I wasn't even giving it gas and it wanted to rev max rpm. The throttle cable didn't seem to be pulled either and I'm pretty sure the carb is put together correctly. I adjusted the idle screw and it did nothing,
 



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#12
Or get loose and fall in, some chainstays seem like they are tapered enough that it can happen if it slid down a tad..
I put cut washers and locknuts on a few 5/16 bolts to secure it but now the carb is having problems. When I pulled the clutch in it revved to the moon same thing happened with the mini chopper and that intake has a o ring on it.
 

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#13
Well now instead of over revving it barely wants to start now. A few pops but as soon as i hit the clutch the engine dies. My lungs hurt from pedaling the thing. I might add don't buy the gasbike.net wide pedal crank its shite. Even with loctite on the bolts holding the cranks on it came loose and stripped the threads and can now hear something grinding. The only thing I thought it could be is the clutch cable tension isn't right. If only more people stopped buying these crap china engines and the Japanese took over. I even put an o-ring in between the clamp and the slits on the carb. So it overrevvs one day and barely starts the other. I might add the throttle cable had no effect. I'm about to just start saving for a Honda ruckus and ditch MB's too much frustration. Plus it wouldn't break every 2 minutes you try to ride it and street legal.
 
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