chain drive vs friction drive

[moondog]

Friction drive will fit almost any bike including this old moped with a rear rack.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x218/biodiesel_2007/Picture034.jpg

I am sold on those moped tires. They are thick and cheap and wear well.

They are 20" bicycle size.

 

[JunkyardDog]

None of the different drive setups are perfect, they all have their problems. I am currently running a friction drive, and while it does wear out tires a little faster, they still last a long time. I have considered all the options for my next bike, and am leaning toward a frame mounted 4 stroke with a jackshaft setup turning the crank. This is not exactly "plug and play" but I think it is the best design from an engineering point of view.

If you have a derailleur setup on the rear wheel, you can keep your gears. This would give you the ability to ride in the mountains. There is no way you can ride on flat level ground and climb long steep hills with the same gear ratio, I've tried it on my friction drive.

I am considering building a Trek 820 steel framed mountain bike with such a setup. It has plenty of room for the engine/drive setup, a strong crush resistent small diameter steel tube frame, and a Shimano Mega Range rear gear cluster. Just add a better more comfortable seat and higher bars, and it should be the ultimate go anywhere do anything MB. Jerry.

 

[NoPed]

I really do want to try a friction drive; they seem like such a simple solution! one friend had flats all the time; it just seems like that roller would mash road trash right into the tire!

is it possible to avoid flats? what about using a solid tire? there must be a solution. the flat thing is my only concern..are there other issues with friction i should be aware of?

thanks y'all

 

[JunkyardDog]

Friction drives work very well if you live where it is very flat, and the roads are rarely ever wet. I have put thousands of miles on friction drive setups. They have to be done right. You have to use the right kind of tire, it needs to be inflated properly, and the drive roller needs to be the right diameter for your riding conditions. A roller that is too small can over rev the engine, a roller that is too big can lug the engine. Several things need to be taken into consideration. Your weight, size of the bike wheel, and local terrain, such as, do you climb hills often?

I reached the limits of friction drive (and also direct chain drive) because I wanted to ride in the mountains, and needed a wide selection of gears. Here, a shifter kit is the only way to go. Yes, it's complicated, but nothing else will do what it will. I started building one several years ago, and other things came along (new family) and I never finished it. Someday I will. Hopefully.

 

[Mountainman]

a tire liner and a good tire recommended many miles of enjoyment

 

[JunkyardDog]

I've had the best of luck with those super thick puncture resistant tubes (they are about 4 times thicker than a standard tube) with at least 8 oz of Slime in them. An even better sealant, though made for motorcycles and somewhat more expensive, is Ride-On. However, I would still carry at least one spare tube and the tools to change it and air it up. Fixing a flat on a motorized bicycle is somewhat more difficult than a regular bike, especially if you have a 4 stroke. The oil and gas tend to run out. Helps a lot to have a tree to lean it up against, but there never seems to be one around when you need it.