This happened because you didn't know about sequential shifting and color coding your shifters. Don't feel bad you couldn't have known because I invented it.
On my nephew's Raleigh mountain bike it has a 3×8 drive system. After doing calculations, this was the sequential shifting system:
Red 1(1-5), Yellow 2(3-6), Green 3(6-8) for 12 non-redundant ratios.
My system eliminates cross-chaining. Enables you to know exactly how to shift to the next higher or lower ratio. The color coding lets you know which sprockets to use with which chainrings.
On the front shifter 1 has a red dot
, 2 has a yellow dot
, and 3 has a green dot
beside of them. On the rear shifter (1-5) has a red bar
, (3-6) has a yellow bar
, and (6-8) has a green bar
beside of them.
Lateral chain movement is the enemy of components. The less stress you have the longer the components last. In order to fit something like a 1×11 in between dropouts you have to make thinner components; meaning they'll be weaker. This is fine for human legs; not so much for the torque of an engine though.
On the Sidewinder the shifting system is Red 1(1-3), Yellow 2(3-5), Green 3(5-7). The only time the front chain ring is changed is when in either rear sprockets (3) or (5). Notice this puts very little lateral stress on the chain.
View attachment 198636
Back last year the 12 yo freewheel went out. Finding the best shifters, rear derailleur, and front derailleur to use was some trail and error process. That being said, with my current shifting system the chain and front chainrings have held up well for 3 years now. On the LandRider which used a 1×7 drive system I replaced a chain at least once a year.
With either of these IGH cassette hubs you'll still have a cross-chaining issue. The best thing one could do is calculate up the various gear reductions and devise which sprockets would be best to use with the IGH selections to where some sort sequential order came out of it.
