Drum brake vs Coaster brake

revival of a good topic...

the x-fd is the one, imo, a sturdy standard...and i'm noticing it cropping up on more and more serious builds. whatever kind of rear brake you've got, it'll feel much more effective paired with a ft drum.

the shimano cb-e110 on 12G spokes is also pretty bullet-proof...use auto-grade grease and watch that bearing adjustment...i have one (from iride years ago, a "dyno" leftover i think) that's done well over 5k, with many HT's, a titan, & now my GEBE's...in other words i've really racked this wheel, & it keeps on ticking. even after all those installs & uninstalls, there's no bent spokes, & it runs totally true.

next time i get to buy a fresh wheelset, tho, it's gonna be a sturmey-archer X-FD/-RD combo...i'm hooked on auto-clutch MB's, so why not make use of the missing lever? sealed bearings front and rear, ohyeah...freewheeling pedals will be a plus, too.

for some fun window-shopping, here's S-A: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs.php
 
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Drum Brakes and Carbs for Whizzers

Hi all,
Thanks Quenton and Bill for the post. I received a few emails about the drum brakes i have for sale. I also have a few carbs i will be closing out shortly. I will post a new thread once i see what i have left. I sold a few already since the original post.
Thanks again
Al (koolwhizzer)
 
The brakes on mine are by far the weakest of anything with a motor that I've ever owned. I grooved the front brake shoes and it did help. Though the screeching, which was initially calmed by the grooves, has come back. They work fine as long as all stops are planned well in advance.

If your talking about V or C brakes squealing. Use a thick rubber band on the back section of the pad to get a "Toe In." That's suppose to alleviate the problem. Also if you have Brushed Aluminum rims you can clean them up with wet n dry sandpaper, 220 or higher.
 
My coaster locked up in a panic stop. Now it is toast. I bought a new wheel with a band brake. Debbie said they have a drum unit that will go on the same wheel with the band on it. I'm looking forward to one of those.
 
The expanding brake is much better, however it is very difficult to install and adjust correctly. Every wheel I converted from band to expanding brake required removing the band hub, which most often must be "cut" off. The problem has to do with removing the band brake hub because the threads act like it is welded on. I have destroyed several rear hubs trying to remove the original band brake hub to insall the hub from the expanding brake assembly.

It is also difficult to install the expanding brake completely in line with the hub and ofen a lot of spacers & washers are needed to obtain proper alignment. If the brake isn't installed completely straight, it won't work correctly.

It will take a lot of work to install correctly, however it is worth the effort to do so.


Have fun,
 
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Thank you Quenton! I am not that crazy about the stock hoops anyway. The conversion sounds like I would lose too. I know a good wheel builder up in San Jose, Guy Doss. I have a Phil Wood polished hub with a disc brake, big SS spokes, Worksman rims and Kevlar tires. Guy designed new links for the Monarch fork and Phil made them polished SS. All of that is what your hot rod engine is rolling on. I love it all! Thanks to everyone for all your help and expertise.
Jim
 
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