Engine was running fine and the next second it doesn't start.

Haha, alright. Has anybody seen a lot of vibrations at highest speeds? I feel like the engine is just gonna explode type thing. I'm not used to hearing it at it's highest RPMs. Just to be sure, it won't explode or anything from running it at it's highest RPM for a while will it?

I also need to fix the tensioner. It ends up moving inside which makes the chain at the top and bottom out of alignment (It still works though). What do you guys suggest? Somebody said to drill through the frame and fasten it that way but I'd rather not drill through an already thin frame.
 
All those HT 2-smokes vibrate a little, some a lot. Especially the 66cc because of it's overlarge piston. Make sure your mounts are flush to the frame and duodecuple-check (yes, 12x) you have no intake leaks at all. When these motors run lean, they will vibrate more than usual. It's basically a 2-smoke's version of "pinging", or detonation.

None of the HTs are really equipped for long-term high-rpm runs. There are many degrees of build quality, but even the best aren't built to run flat-out at 6k rpm all day. The 66cc are happiest between 3.5-4.5k, from my exp. I've put many miles on HTs, blown some up, and my daily rider has one. As finicky and ultimately unreliable as they are, they are often a lot of fun, IMHO.

As for your idler (which is also often dubious in long-term), you would probably be better off replacing it with an idler sprocket such as ones for converting multispeed drivertrains to singlespeed.

Hope this helps! :D
 
Yes, it did help. I'll check for intake leaks but I doubt there are any. Only leak is on the exhaust and a gas leak somewhere (I think leaking screw on the gas tank). As for the vibrations, It's only at high RPM. I put rubber washers between the frame and screw so the vibrations have gone down significantly under normal use. I'll also look up the other type of tensioner. What are your views on eliminating the tensioner completely?
 
If you can get the chain length correct on both sides of the bike then by all means eliminate the tensioner. Some folks use no tensioner for the engine chain and use a tensioner on the pedal chain instead. Be careful about the engine chain rubbing on the chain stay though. If that happens then you will have to use a tensioner to hold the chain away from the chain stay.
 
If you can get the chain length correct on both sides of the bike then by all means eliminate the tensioner. Some folks use no tensioner for the engine chain and use a tensioner on the pedal chain instead. Be careful about the engine chain rubbing on the chain stay though. If that happens then you will have to use a tensioner to hold the chain away from the chain stay.

Is the chain stay the black thing that's supposed to cover the chain? I don't have that put on my bike. It doesn't fit properly.
 
Ok, huge problem. I have a gas leak somewhere. I left it in my garage and there was a nice puddle of gas under it in the morning. I feel like it's leaking by the shut off valve on the gas tank but it could also be leaking by the fuel filter or carburetor. Any suggestions on fixing this leak?
 
1st question: Did you turn off the fuel valve when you parked the bike?
Most of the float valves inside the carburetors will not seal reliably enough to trust it sitting overnight or longer.
If you did, then determine where the leak is coming from. If it is from where the fuel valve threads into the fuel tank, you may need to use a thread sealant. I like to use Hylomar as both a thread sealant and a gasket dressing. It is sold as a gasket dressing BTW.
The only thing that will thin or dissolve it is acetone. Gasoline or ethanol will not affect it.
If it is coming from the fuel filter, determine if it is a loose hose connection or if it is a bad filter housing. I have seen 2 in the last 20 or so years that weeped from the seam where they sealed the 2 halves.
Is it coming from the fuel inlet on the carburetor itself?
Once again, you might need to use Hylomar to seal the inlet to carburetor body connection.
 
Yes, I did close the fuel valve but I left the choke on. The other thing I did was cover the shut off valve to gas tank screw with electrical tape. If it doesn't leak, then I guess it's a problem there. If it still leaks, I guess I have some investigation to do. I'm gonna let it sit until tomorrow afternoon and see if it leaks. I kept cardboard under it. Also lost a hook that holds the gas tank on the frame. Do you know the type of nuts that it uses? I can make another bracket.
 
If you can get the chain length correct on both sides of the bike then by all means eliminate the tensioner. Some folks use no tensioner for the engine chain and use a tensioner on the pedal chain instead.
I am one of those people that won't put a tensioner on the drive chain ;-}

I also popped back in your problem thread because of the wiring issue and I said I would when I have a new MB wiring kit with Keylock ready to sell, and as of today I do.

http://kcsbikes.com/keylock.asp

Check it out.
I only have enough parts parts for ~40 kits right now though, so if you want want one get it before I get enough in to order more bulk parts.
 
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