Here we go again
- Thread starter SimpleSimon
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Turtle Tedd
Member
got plenty of info from SS when starting out thinking about trike building last year..type in this....Peter Eland's site Ackerman Stearing Spreadsheet
SimpleSimon
Active Member
Here you go: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
It is a method of setting up steering geometry to minimize tire scrub and other problems in turning.
Turtle Tedd
Member
What are you using for the steering head tube sets ..I would like to find a source for these instead of cutting them off a bike that has had the other tubes already welded to them..could have machined all this stuff to the bearings I wanted to use a couple of years ago but no longer have acess to this kind of equipment...except for welding equipment I am at the mercy of what is avaiable out there..to have stuff machined to my specs now by someone else is out of my price range ...Catrike factory is close but want to use steel not aluminium..what are your thoughts here Simon?
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SimpleSimon
Active Member
Well, I am going to use bicycle head tubes, because Srdavo was kind enough to send me a matched pair already cut from donor frames. Nice things about them is that they are long enough to go through the axle beam and support the axle stubs and the tie rod ends handily, while giving me an already threaded upper end that I can use to mount the disc brake calipers and the headlights, so that they pivot with the wheels.
After talking with my friend that traveled to Oregon with me, I am contemplating acquiring a matched pair of moped 16" wheels for the front end. With tubes and tires mounted a 16" moped wheel is the same overall diameter as a 20" bicycle wheel and tire, and I can get them with hydraulic disc brake discs already in place, pretty cheaply. Nice, heavy duty wheels with good brakes - just what the doctor ordered.
Turtle Tedd
Member
SS edit edited my post before I read the above..That matched pair of heavy duty moped wheels with hydro discs sound good....the word " Overkill " does not exist here when building these bikes...casing thin headtubes in another steel tube even if the ID has to be turned might be a good idea for welding..
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SimpleSimon
Active Member
As it happens, I already have a one foot long piece of 3/32" thick walled tubing which the headtubes slide snugly into. It is my intent to use two pieces of that tubing to make the weld to the drop axle beam, then braze the headtubes into the sleeves that creates. The inserts then go through and are attached by the normal process.
I have, in my lifetime, been in a number of accidents that would almost certainly have been avoidable had I had better brakes. Since I only have one hand to operate controls with, hydraulic brakes seem a very good idea to me.
I plan to fabricate a cut-out sleeved steering column, with the bell crank coming through the cut-out. That will be made from a folding Razor scooter steering column I already have which is collapsible/adjustable for length. I plan to support it with a bolt on pair of clamps that will attach to flanges on the middle portion of the drop axle. Control wiring and hydraulic hose will run up the middle of that to my T handle steering tiller (which I already have).
Turtle Tedd
Member
Man..sounds good..take it easy on that foot though..I see the rear swingarm pivot point ..are you going to use a monoshock type set up back there?
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A
Alaskavan
Guest
After I motorized my trike, I determined that the disc brakes that came with it were not really sufficient. I changed to Avid 7's (mechanical). I am still not satsfied. Perhaps hydraulics, with a split so it operates off one handle would give me the stopping power I would feel comfortable with. As you build, please let us know how the brake system you use works.
Thanks
Van
(I may not post often, but I'm watching)
Thanks
Van
(I may not post often, but I'm watching)
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